LS26

I LIKE that... What's it like for noise/MoT?

Newr thought of that - maybe I'll leave it after-all

I just found a neighbourhood cat sleeping on MY seat inside the RRC It had come in through the floor ... Note to self: GET ON WITH THAT WELDING! Rog

If anyone has had their apetite whetted by the excellent LEGO diff - there is quite a good explanation of the Torsen diff (including pics/diagrams) at http://www.2kgt.com/item.php?itemid=76 I personally love the concept of 'torque-sensing' or lockers better than slipping clutchy things (actually anything would be nice as long as it's free ). BUT - If I had a spare LSD at the back of the garage I know where it would be headed Rog

Gotta go now but with what you have said, I'd be looking at the power to the ignition switch (or the switch itself)... Could try running a direct feed to the switch perhaps (anyone know which wire? brown perhaps?) Best of luck with it... Rog

sorry - not trying to be obtuse or anything... I believe that the rear wiper IS ignition controlled but is not controlled by the main power relay (the one you suspect anyway) so what I was thinking is that if this works, then it's probably worth pulling the dash (I think it's below the steering wheel) to have a look at it. Rog

does the rear wiper work?

Rather sketchy I'm afraid, but isn't there a fusible link in the main pos lead from the battery that covers everything except starting current? could be that perhap?... Rog

Brilliant! Every time I visit this site I learn SO MUCH! Just one question though - it appeared that these things expect an input of 35v - or is this the max perhaps? Rog (another one)

hmmm dare I say it? Called the AA for a 'collapsed wheel bearing'... the wheel nuts were loose Only consolation was that it wasn't me that 'tightened' them...

In this PC-mad world, I woud have thought that the above would infringe on the scumbag's human right to rob yer! 30 years ago my brother and I rigged a MkII Capri (with a Starsky & Hutch paintjob ) with an indicator flasher feeding an ignition coil bolted under the boot floor and it's HT lead (when released) dangling so that a screw up the end of it touched the ground. During tests on the driveway, when 'activated' the whole car would tick menacingly and if you brushed against it (even the paint) you would get enough of a 'belt' to put you off trying anything else. However there were two problems - a determined grab would get you through the initial shock-value and the subsequent jolts were tolerable; and the other thing was that we were testing it on a concrete drive and when tested on tarmac - the effect was small. I also suspect that if the car had had one, an ECU would not have been happy living with this. Rog

Definitely agree - I have found it a great forum for a welcoming and frendly bunch of members. An there is none of the "Please do not post until you have checked the FAQs - I think you will find that post 22345 (November 2003 from memory) adequately answers you question" rubbish that you get on some sites Roger

Don't know if anyone does this, but if not then here's an idea for free: Have a sleeve between the steering wheel and the shaft that is keyed onto both with random non-aligned splines inside and out. With it in place the wheel is locked to the shaft - with it out the wheel spins freely. Thinking back to my old Series 1 though - that had a neat little anti-theft device - a hasp & staple fitted to the handbrake and seat-box so that the handbrake could be padlocked in the on position. As for not leaving anything on show - it may be a bit extreem, but I have just been out in the dark removing my nice new Dixon-Bate tow-ball and pin, having noticed how bright and shiny the plating looks in Sodium light - and thinking how much it cost me... I'll put it back on when I need it! Back on-topic - Alarms and Imobilisers - I had 2 immobs on my RRC v8, one that was ' busted and not connected' according to the dealer I bought it from and another that they fitted for my insurance. Anyway... The other day while poking around under the dash I decided to cut out all the cr*p wiring from the old unit and... Well... You just try and guess how long it took before it would start again ! Rog

Hmm - I'm guessing there could be some cost implications here? Does anybody actually make an ally (or SS) direct replacement tank? The next chapter in my RRC tank/POR-15 story is that upon futher cleaning, it appears that there are patches of original paint all over it.. Most are only a few mm across but I suspect that they are large enough to start the 'peeling off in sheets' that people mentioned. So my plan it now to use the POR-15 elsewhere (rest assured dear reader, there are plenty of rusty bits to chose from!) and to wire-brush it back far enough to use Zinc Phosphate primer and top coat (followed by underseal once it's in place). Rog

It seems that rust-paint arrouses strong feelings on both sides - and not only on this forum... I thought I'd check out TREMCLAD and the very first thing that I found was this: I also found more or less equal numbers saying how brilliant and how rubbish it is... I guess you pays your money and you takes your choice.. Now. The other part of my original query (Zinc Phospahte primer) has not has a similar effect - is that because everybody's experience of it is universally good - or perhaps that people have lower expectations of a simple 'primer' as opposed to an 'anti-rust treatment'? Rog

I did start out using a wire brush on the grinder but it didn't seem that fast to me... It also makes sparks I think I'll try the POR-15 on the tank (after a decent hand wire brushing prep) and report back on how it goes... Thanks for the warnings about it skinning over and about it not sticking to much else other than rust. Rog

Hi again, I never heard of POR 15 so I checked it out - WOW! The product I have been looking for for years! I particularly like the bit where it says that painting it directly onto a rusted surface is best. After years of believing that you had to work for hours removing the rust before painintg, it feels almost sinful... Kind of like your mum telling you it's OK to go out and get all muddy in your best clothes! So - POR 15 and Zinc Phosphate (for the big bits) it is... Thanks lads! Roger p.s. I found POR-15 for £27 a quart (inc vat plus del) at Frost Products - does anybody have a cheaper source?

I decided to de-rust my RRC petrol tank cos it looks like it needed it... So I gave it a good wire brushing and then experimented with some of that 'Rust Eater'... I placed loads in the pump depression: and left it there for 20 miutes - agitating it occasionally with a stiffish brush. Then I removed it and - HEY PRESTO: No difference. When I tried the same stuff on my CBR600 after a winter of commuting it was MARVELOUS... Bringing the fan motor upt to bright metal in no time! Ah well, I suppose Rover-Rust is just that much tougher to shift than Jap-Cr*p... Or maybe the stuff goes off? Anyway - since it doesn't look like I'm going to be painting onto bright metal, but onto (well wire-brushed) rust: What would the panel recommend in terms of primer? I have heard that Zinc Phosphate primer will stabilize rust and act as a good base coat, but an old friend once said that you can't beat 'red lead' (I think he may be a little too old!) Any guidance/experiences would be appreciated. Roger

Many thanks for that Fisha Roger

This stuff: http://www.burlen.co.uk/partDetail.aspx?partID=43559 is about £3.50 per metre and looks pretty good to me.. I agree about the size, I don't think I would go below the 8mm bore since a long length of 6mm would cause a lot more pressure reduction when flowing.. (it's only 56% of the cross sectional area of 8mm bore) and would probably give the pump a harder time as a result. FridgeFreezer - you must have interesting times with your RR if you worry about getting sunlight on cable ties on your chassis Cheers Roger

I read a thread a while ago which debated the relative merits of body-lift vs suspension-lift and I must admit after reading that I decided that to me it's a no-brainer - what I want is a body lift. Clearance for the big tyres without all the trick suspension that I can't afford. So - if you don't mind... I reckon all I need is six by 1" spacers and longer bolts (also I would change the rubbers while there) Am I correct in this? It looks like an amazingly simple job (undo the steering, jack it and retighten the steering) - are there any hidden snags? Cheers Roger

FridgeFreezer recommended replacing the whole lot with rubber fuel hose - something which I am definitely going to do... Afterall, if the back is causing concern how long before the front bit goes and squirts it all over the exhaust or somesuch? I am looking for a cheap supply of suitable tube now - I'll let you know if I find some. Roger

OK, it's anorak time... (Gosh this is a risk on such a knowledgeable forum - hope I don't get shot down for my lack of accuracy) but isn't that a Series 1A ? I think that the seies 1 (80" not 86") had 5" headlights behind the grill didn't it? Nice picture though, and (IMHO) a great film for all the gaffs... Rog

Interesting position on the LPG tank there Fisha - I am planning to put mine down into the rear footwell to try and clear as much load space as possible - although I am a bit on the short side so I don't need the full rearward travel on my seat... On the steel vs ally/alu (we used to say 'lulu' in the scapyards of Nottingham when I were a lad) - I reckon that I would prefer steel for it's improved strength (although having said that - I never managed to dent my lulu one at all...) Mine is fairly solid (amazing how much of that white powder it generates though) but anyway I was actually thinking of replacing it with plywood... Do I need to run away and hide now for that heresy? Roger

Cheers FridgeFreezer, I got the tank out yesterday and althought the outside is quite rusted to hell, the inside is clean as a whistle . I pumped it out by wiring the punp to the numberplate light since the ecu would only run it for a couple of seconds unless the engine is running... Anyway, even when I upended the tank to get the last 2 gallons that were left in there when the pump started blowing air, all I got was beautifully clean petrol That said I will be applying your idea of a clear filter in the return line - I like that... The problem with my local motor factor is the cost - I think about £1 a foot if I remember rightly from when I replaced a short section a while ago... I was thinking that suitable industrial hose might be cheaper.. I'll have a look in the book for a 'hydraulics shop' - I think there is one between Tescos and B&Q I also like the sound of Peter Rainbird's idea for the fuel pump hatch - I'll be doing that too While in the area of the boot floor - mine is aluminium but I was told that later ones were steel - anyone know if this is correct? And has anyone found a source of replacement panels (or even industrial stuff with the correct corrugations)? Roger