LS26

When I get a rusted hose clip problem, I usually call on the services of my best friend Sparky... (who is a 4" grinder, by the way). Although I have been known to cut the hose through, remove the rad and then sort out the clip - especially with resticted access. A bit drastic, but often if the clips are that far gone, then the hose needs looking at too... Rog

Hi Paul, I'm guessing that Muenster gets some pretty low temps in winter - right? I think that in the UK I probably would leave it as it is (being what our American cousins would call a 'tight-wad' ), but over there I would probably start again... As for the concetrations - you should (IMHO) rely more on what it says on the anti-freeze container than Haynes, as brands often differ - in fact some modern 'anti-freeze and Summer collant' types are pre-diluted and should only be used 'neat'! I would think that for minus 36oC, that blue stuff you used would need to be stronger than 25% mix anyway... The antifreeze that I use in the car (which I think is fairly normal stuff) says the following: 33% mix: -18oC 50% mix: -34oC But maybe they sell stronger stuff in Germany? As for mixing anti-freezes, apparently that is not a good idea - although I have done it for 30 years with no apparent problems, I wouldn't do it on anything I care about.... (e.g. The stuff I use for the Honda CBR600 goes in neat and cost nearly £5 per litre and gets replaced every year ) Overall, I would suggest: Start again and use concentration as per the label, But you have to make your own path in life eh? Regards Rog

Hmm - I always get a mouthful... Please ENSURE that you spit not swallow! Rog

Gosh! They look such good value that I might buy a set... And I don't even have a compressor! Rog

structural? But seriously, thanks for that, I did realise today at work that it was a silly idea to put holes in the C pillar - but I have found a better place - I can just mount it in the rear inner wing above the wheel-arch and put a hole in the outer wing - maybe even put a high-level flap in there if I can find one... Cheers, Rog

From my experience I would say that brake fluid is the paint stripper (but nowhere near as fast/powerful as most paople think) and that antifreeze just causes a mess... I've certainly never noticed it taking off paint, (but then on most of my motors it would be hard to tell anyway ) - but unless somebody knows for sure it would be best to be as careful as is practicable and rinse it off afterwards perhaps... I think that most cars I have seen recently rely on popping a hose as a way of draining the coolant - for the sake of cost of manufacture I suppose... Rog

Hi, I will be keeping the standard petrol tank (for the time being) and my current LPG filler is squeezed inside the petrol flap, but my flap is one of those lower ones which puts the LPG filler... Tell you what: One picture is worth a thousand words - I'll nip out and take a snap: As you can see - the current setup is a bit low, points upwards and so fills with water/mud (the previous owner cut the bottom away to alleviate this but it still fills up the little threaded bit in the middle), and finally it's a RPIA to fit the nozzle coz it hits the flap. For all these reasons I want to move it up and out of harm's way. WRT length of filler pipe making a difference to the fill time, well I'm not too sure - the worst choke points are probably the valves but I can't do anything about them, and the thought of trying to squeeze 80 litres of LPG through a tiny pipe (8mm bore?) against back pressure, (and usually in a blizzard it seems) makes me think that the shorter it is, the better.. My current thinking is that I could put the LPG filler through the C Pillar here: and perhaps get one of those little plastic caps for it... Whadayathink? Rog

Hi, On my RRC I am going to mount my LPG tank just behind the front seats (all trim etc behind the front seats has been removed). I wish to keep the filler pipe as short as possible to speed up filling, and would like to place the filler adapter (if possible) so as to keep it out of the mire. My questions are: Are there any regs pertaining to the placement of the filler adapter? Where have you got yours and how do you keep it clean? Roger Soory! I meant this to go in the Range Rover forum - is it possible to move it?

Nice... But how does one get in? Rog

near M1 M62 junction - Rothwell Sprts Centre - Know it? You close at all? If you work anywhere near IT you'll laugh at this one - It works on my machine ! Which links aren't working for you? I'll have a look and see if there is any dodgy code... Rog

'this bad boy' is indeed going to the ballcock - dunno what that thing is... is it something to do with the heater then? (I used to have an XJ6 that had vacuum operated heater controls - is this the same?) I don't THINK that king-leads are any different to normal spark plug leads (no doubt someone will KNOW the answer though) - in terms of load it only carries the same as a plug lead - just 8 times as often! Rog

Ahh THAT's the one.. wot he said Cheers MogLite Rog p.s. I see what you did there....

I'll look after it for you In the motorcycle world I have heard of the following (just perm any from the list per your own thoughts): Change the oil (old oil is acidic aparently) Change the anti-freeze (to gain max anti-corrosion properties) Clean and spray everything with WD40 Do the tyres with one of those rubber preserver sprays (don't do the tread though!) As an asside on tyres - and OTT for a 4x4 - bikers will also emery the tread after a layup to remove the oxide layer before use. Once it's off the ground, pry out the brake pads just a little (make sure you have room in the fluid reservoir) Remover the plugs and put a SMALL spray of WD40 in each, turn the engine over and then replace the plugs. Drain the fuel system (old petrol forms a gum on anything it's in contact with - although this is unlikely to cause any problems in a single six month layup, if you are going to do it every year then it may be worth the effort.) Alternatively to all of the above, all I do is run the engine for about an hour once a month to get it thoroughly hot, at the end of which I turn the RRC around to move it on the tyres and brakes. Oh and of course I leave the handbrake off and condition/charge the battery. or.... I'll look after it for you Rog

found these: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...ategoryrn_31427 (if the link works) The picture is ok, but the cost is high and the description? Well... 18 piece bit set (flat blade, crosspoint, hex and star) with adaptors ??? what's that about then? Just when I was beginning to think that Halfords are getting their act together and supplying some good kit. The obviously need to do some work on the web site too Rog ok so the link was truncated by some 'clever' software - this time you'll have to cust and paste: "http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_162927_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varient__categoryId_31427_crumb_3395 -33943_parentcategoryrn_31427" without the quotes Aw b*gger - I can't get this thing to work.. Sorry Rog

Rog

open to the atmosphere...

My 3.9 has been set up like this for years - I do hope it's not wrong! Rog

Commiserations Keith - I know that sinking feeling well when you go out to find your baby missing. I often thank fate that I have ended up living opposite curtain-twitching old insomniacs - Mr Shires has saved me grief on several accasions over the last 3 years... Fingers crossed you might find it... One of my cars was nicked years ago and a mate found it parked up on an industrial estate the next day so I had to go and nick it back! There are a lot of people here who keep an eye on Ebay = are there any identifying features on any of the components that we should know about? Rog

Mine goes to maybe 1200 rpm (I'll check tonight) but only for a couple of seconds, I always assumed this was by design? IIRC I think it is controlled by the air bypass valve that seems to open up when starting. If there is a problem with this then (in my case) the symptom is intermittent high idle speed (read anything from 1500 to 3000 (!!!) rpm) often (but not always) after a run. Blipping the throttle would sometimes clear it. The cause is the valve not closing/seating correctly. After months of repeatedly removing and cleaning it (which would fix it for a few days) I finally bit the bullet and bought a new one (£50 I think ) and that fixed it. However during all this time the engine was fine under load so I think you might be able to exclude this (expensive) little beast... It takes a fatter spark to ignite the mix when the engine is under load... IMHO FridgeFreezer has it covered : - Ignition (specifically amp or vacuum advance) but also check the basics - cap, rotor, HT leads - but just to add support to this: In my past experience a good cleanup and checkover of all of the above has nearly always sorted problems akin to those described. Good luck! Rog Oooh - just realised - I can't check mine tonight, I've got the tank out! Silly me

I have an optimate which is GREAT (for the CBR600) but it wouldn't supply the current needed by a big battery so I also got a Halfords thing - and it is also GREAT... My RRC has been laid up for three years now (long story) and it's battery is still fine I think that bearing in mind the cost of new batteries - it's well worth getting the best that you can afford. Rog

A little OT - sorry... oooh! oooh! and wrong forum - double sorry , but just taken the rear wing off my RRC and appart from the top (cross-head) screws the tally is thus: 2 bolts sheared off 1 bolt ground off 1 rivet drilled out ALL the rest of the fasteners just pulled through the corrosion! Who needs spanners? Roger

Don't know this paticular fitment (V8 me ) so feel free to ignore me, but have done pumps in the past using RTV sealant and it's great! (being an ex 650 Bonneville owner I love the stuff! ) Two things I'd to mention here: 1. I always try to use the correct torque on the bolts of any mating surface - I found out years ago (in my Triumph days) that overtightenning can be as bad as going the other way. 2. Gasket thickness is important for waterpump efficiency - don't be tempted to replace the gasket with RTV or (as I have seen in my past life as a back-street abortio mechanic ) put TWO in Rog

I am SO pleased that I noticed this - I am normally very careful of scams but I think that this one might have caught me - MANY THNAKS for the warning, LR90

Nice explanation! Not a teacher are you? I easily understood the whole concept after reading this Just wondering though (not that it affects me) - why is it the only way to test modern vehicle electrics? Rog

Rog