ped

Last time i fitted one i just used an ign live to a switch wich powered a relay supplied by a 30a fuse and the output went direct to the screen On my work truck as im getting older and not wanting to forget it is on im going to wire in a timer This is how I'm planning on wiring it up Anyone see any issues(quick sketch on an old envelope as I've stopped smoking and don't have a fag packet to sketch on)

that is my thoughts and a few years ago we had to make braided lines for the rear axle as the copper lines i had got made up prior to a caliper swap wouldn't fit and it was sunday afternoon and i needed the truck the following day sadly the fittings he had spare were just plated not stainless so now have rusted up badly so for future lines i'll only use stainless fittings,costs a bit more but cheaper in the long run

i've used a Chinese one for a couple of years in the shed with no real issues and my dad has one fitted on his camper for my work truck rebuild we have a 2kw that was sent to my dad to test by one of the suppliers in China(he admins on a diesel heater group)) not sure where it'll be fitted but my dad always recommends a seperate fuel supply as close as possible to the heater ,i do like the swirlpot in the return line idea

I also added new seals to the flaps and around the matrix

as my 110 in bits and the heater motor packed up years ago and i fitted a bilge fan in it's place i took the time to remove the fan and fit a blanking plug in it's place (i did consider a new fan but at 150 i decided to keep using the bilge fan now it was apart i found the bilge fan fits nicely into the intake and can be sealed in place easily the original intake pipe in the wing will still but up to it and seal against the heater

cheers for the replies i've seen rolls of it for sale but i think i'll bite thye bullet and go with stainless braided i know copper last well but it's the fittings that let it down for me although i have found some stainless ones but i do like the ease of using banjo fittings over screw in nipples

it's been a long time since i've rebuilt a 110 and last time i used cunifer lines with goodridge flexi hoses since them i've helped my old man build a tvr roller skate race car and he made stainless braided lines all the way through and whilst a bit costly in fittings it does allow calipers to be undone at a later date without the risk of having to also swap the lines as the coroded unions just twist the brake pipe before i go down the full braided hose and stainless banjo route can premade stainless hard lines be bought to fit a 110 cheers

thats what i do with a bit of tape over the upper holes

many thanks i knew the sd were the same gearbox but didn't want to mess about swapping bellhousings and i seem to remember that a firm i worked for had a sherpa which if i recall had a landrover engine in it as most sherpa's have been made into bean tins finding a good gearbox might be tricky but it gives me a starting point thanks ped

can a landrover gearbox be used without the transfer box? what i want to do is use a land rover engine and main box and fit them into my dumper based loader i figured if i could fit a propshaft flange to the output shaft i could connect to the original 4wd drop box any body have any thoughts on this thanks ped

yes i've got one fitted to my 110 with an lt77 afaik all t/box are interchangable

is it possible to fit all the parts from a p38 axle in to a disco/90 axle casing

when i use the winch i use 4th gear at 1500rpm to get the correct flow rate you can use any gear (apart from reverse)but the flow rate is less so winch speed is slower my thoughts were when you put auto into drive you would have to rev it to change up to probally third (can't remember auto ratio's so this is a guess) so getting the maximum flow rate wuold be difficult and could cause over heating problems to the hydraulic system or pump damage would be great if i'm wrong on this as putting an auto in would make thing easier cheers ped

prefer the 200tdi engine and run a hydraulic winch, otherwise would use an auto as i've got one in my other 110 and i do like them does anybody run an auto with a pto hydraulic pump i've always presumed i wouldn't be able cheers ped

thats along the lines i was thinking of

its for a full rebuild i'm thinking of doing, i'm planning on using a disco as a donor for front axle steering box engine and other suspension parts that way i can refurb and powder coat parts up to a rolling chassis without stripping my other one it seems a shame to not use the gear box fabricating new mounts isn't a problem cheers ped

thoughts on fitting a disco engine and box into a landy, i already know that the gear stick will be too far back in the present position what i'm thinking of doing is moving the whole lot forwards to get round this problem obviously that means removing the viscous fan and new props,will a shorter front prop give me any issues if i have to use a double cardamon joint as used on salisbury fronts axles it's probally not worth doing it

thanks for opinions but as stated its for lifting bags of seasoned logs(180kg-200kg)not bags of ballast the box section was used so an extendable out rigger could be fitted the hub is also bolted through where the wheel studs were(not in photo's)

pictures of crane pivot

thanks for all your replies have now welded in place (haven't load tested as yet) will post pictures when an "adult" helps me ped

that was my initial idea but space is limited as i'm planning on fitting it in the middle of the drawbar and i've already mounted the tipping hydraulics there ped

hi all does anybody know whether you can weld wheel hubs? this is not for use on an axle,but as a pivot so i can mount an engine crane on a sankey my plan is to make a mini hiab so builders bulk bags of logs can be lifted on and off cheers ped

an easy way of tensioning belts by yourself is to use a spreading clamp just place between pulleys expand till you get the right tension then tighten up job done ped

my v8 auto's got a bw box on i run 31 10.5 15's ,on the flat i goes like stink but uphill it struggles unless you hold it in a lower gear to get the revs up, so would think you'd be better with the 1.4 t/box especially as you towing the bw needs different prop shafts aswell i think? ped

cheers lads when transfer box was replaced last year with a range rover auto one ,discovered that some kind soul had welded a nut on the end of the main shaft(4 hours of extra pleasure laid on my back in the rain) as the range rover didn't have a nut on(auto box)and no thread i put it back on the same as it came off and thought it must be lt77 boxes that had a nut now due to alot off towing i need to go back to a 1.4 t/box and just wanted to make 100% sure that there is no nut many thanks ped