ped

i read the pressures were different but 300's are new to me the pump has the throttle pedal conection and afaik it was swapped out for the fly by wire one but i didn't notice which pump it had on when i first saw it only it was from an auto i have to go get the starter which they forgot to put on when they swapped everything over from the auto set up ,if the injectors are all the same i won't make a fuss about them not swapping them over

is the winch free spool engaged

yep put transfer box in neutral clutch in pull out round lever engage 4th gear and release clutch pump should now be pumping i haven't the throttle ram connected and i fitted a hand throttle and i also fitted a cetop valve block instead of a lever spool block so i can use cab mounted control as well as front and rear remote hand controller and a wireless remote

The donor engine for my 110 was from a disco auto and it was supposed to have the pump and injectors swapped to non auto ones They didn't do this will i have any issues with the injector with the wire if i just leave it

just get some made up in copper

i run 32wt in my h14 hydraulic but it gets little use and i was running it through a cooler if your running it a lot 46 wt might be better

i machined the front stubs so they sat over the rear flange like the oruginal rear ones i had got my stubs and hubs mixed up lol

I have a set of 3 2nd row seats that were in my van when i bought it

When i did both my 110's i used front stubs and hubs td5 discs bolt on brackets and calipers meant to fit the brackets The front hubs were machined to fit the rear axle Only reason i used front stubs and hubs is i had them spare, the disks bolted straight on so i didn't have to mess about drilling and tapping the old hubs to take the disks

420mm outside of rails

ill have a look in the morning as we have one of those rollerskates

One of todays projects was to take the hitch off my sankey as the hitch lock was stuck on I have been adding penetrating oil for a few weeks as i wanted to drag it out and see what it needed doing to get it fit fir the road after being parked up for at least 7 yrs I'd just got all 4 bolts off when i realised it wasn't going to come out as it had to go back and up and a bright spark had welded the crane frame above it I resorted to landrover tool 2 after loosely fitting the bolts and with a bit of wood on the hitch lock i gave it a few smites on the top to let it know i was not amused with it The key was now going all the way in and the body was turning but just not enough so with a sliver of wood i wedged the pin tight to the lock body and with some jiggling it finally released the top cap result By the look everything from the tipping pivots through crane legs to the hand brake lever is seize up so some major tlc req

my sanden has given years of service as well i'm thinking i may try removing the v pulley on it and fit a serpentine pulley i made the mount for my 200tdi and bolted an extra pulley onto the water punp pulley to drive it

When we altered the shed to improve space we re roofed it and whilst it was off had the new lathe and mill craned in over the hedge to save taking them to pieces as we had done with the other mill and old lathe

a bridgeport is a bit big to get in the shed shame we have a marlowe knee mill and a generic Chinese miller driller similar to a warco plus a colchester student lathe

as i work it out i'lllet you know that is a good idea but still needs the oil filter but then that's a small price to pay

that was my next port of call you tube but good to see someone else just greases them

for the last 15-16yrs i've run an aircom pump as a compressor on the 200tdi engine i had fitted and use it to not only blow up big tyres but use as a blower for blowing out saws and light air tool use -i did have 2 25lt air tanks as reservoirs i've now bought a 300 and had an aircon pump fitted but it's not the same make and doesn't seem to have the drain plug as the sanden i've used with good effect so i can't fit a grease nipple instead of the plug(i've always filled it with high temp grease and it has stood the test of time) i have seen that people are fitting inline oilers to the intake but that then requires an oil trap on the tank outlet and keeping an eye on the oil level so i don't really want to go down that route have others gone down the engine mounted compressor route or is everyone focussed on using the electric compressors

Pic of it

on my hydraulic pump take off there is an oil catcher you have to make sure is fitted correctly to feed oil to the bearings it's just a tube with the top cut off part way so oil spashed in the t/case runs back into the pto unit i may be stripping the pto off tomorrow to clean it all up prior to fitting new output o rings so i'll take pics if i do

i had a dragging clutch on my 110 it had the same symptons as the fork tearing out at the pivot or not enough travel on the slave rodbut i knew this wasn't the cause as i always weld up the fork what it was when i seperated the box from the engine was the two followers that are on the fork and push on the release bearing had dropped off so i was getting 1/4" less travel on the release bearing

Just got my timer relay of the bay of evil and a bit of quick jury rigging to test it using one of my fishing barrow batteries and all seems good Activating the trigger pin turns it on and then off it energised again and the relay had dropped out when i looked at it again (14 mins as i was in the shed machining a part)

my work 110 is 3050 on the plate but i don't know what my v8 110 has without looking last time i was on a weigh bridge gertie with sankey on came in at 3200kg(tipping with a crane fitted) on my rebuild i'm hoping to put her on a diet

i've not put e10 in my v8 so far but i do use it in my chainsaws and stump grinders , i try to drain fuel out when i don't use them regularly though my v8 fuel lines are getting on for 12yrs old and i'm thinking of putting stainless braided on when i do the fuel lines for my work truck as it makes sense to buy enough to do them at the same time

cheers Western pretty much the same i'll be changing the timer relay feed to an engine running supply i think i used to have a simple spltter relay triggered by the charge light to link the rear aux small winch battery and rear hydraulic pump unit i used for pulling my stump grinder up ramps into the rear or onto the trailer and to power the small crane i have on a sankey trailer