ped

will an lt85 tunnel fit a r380 gear box

i bought a set of alpines for my hard top 110 as the headlining i fitted had the cut outs for them in the end i decided i wasn't going to fit them ,this was after helping a mate put his back in after removing to paint the hard top it was a nightmare

That is a consideration afaik it all works fine If i find it stops working I'll machine up a block to replace it

i'm currently at the stage of doing my brake lines and the talk of ommitting the pdwa is interesting i've never had issue with it so i'll still use it i think but the tip about removing the piston if it does cause issues is handy

checked my v8 (never thought to do so) and the rear hose is 100mm too short plus the fronts are 50mm shorter so they've certainly sent the wrong ones bit the bullet and i've been on to torqus and have 10m of an3 hose coming an assrtment of fittings and stainless p clips we'll make them up to suit

i found with my old turbo diesel a few seconds was all it needed and when i swapped to a 200 it was only in real artic type winter mornings that i needed any glow plug assist and then it was only around 10 secs

i've never liked the 6 bolt boxes my 110 had one when i got it and never felt great so i got a reconned one which wasn't much nicer i swapped for a disco one with the flat arm and steering was vastly improved if you want a 6 bolt i have one you can have

does anyone have a set of std defender 110 hoses they could measure or a +2" set as i bought a set of plus 2's but the rear looks to be 4" short the supplier has got back to me with "they have no measurements of what they should be" typical i've had nothing but issues buying premade brake lines ,with hindsight i should've gone with the full braided lines and may still do so

last time i had issues with a one piece bush like that i just cut it in half pushed one bit in from each side fitted the insert and job done possibly not what most would do but it worked and got us out of the doo doo i now only use the flowflex ones as they have worked well for me on 3 motors

that does sound a very good addition and one'm going to add to my build

I fitted a 300 turbo on my 200 tdi Much easier than the parker conversion

I spent 7 years shot blasting hgv's and it is the best prep there is but paint needs to be applied asap as rust will start as soon as it is blasted

Without doubt but i think it needs to be blasted prior to painting It's used off shore so has to be good

i'm spraying it on and it needs thinning as it is very thick and lumpy so a strainer is needed i'm just using std thinners and it is fine but they recommend their own thinners but then all pait companies do

i've been shot blasting as much as possible then spraying with zinga followed by either jotum marine two pack or a oil based satin black bog std chassis paint i did have all the suspention parts powder coated but i don't think they'll last as well as the previous powder coating as when they were originally done 15-16yrs ago they were zinctexed first -my mate worked at the powder coaters and made sure that they had the full treatment

i had one and didn't think it was anything special ,that said my use for a winch often inc's pulling tree's over lowering etc so i prefer a worm gear winch which whilst is slow it doesn't rely on brake blocks i'm at present thinking of not fitting my h14 hydraulic and putting my old electric winch on which is a pierce wrecking winch

you can miss some of the steps out look online for a basc guide and Gateros plating are a good firm to do you a kit

when using acids/alkalines it is always good to have fresh water to hand incase you get splashed on unprotected skin or surfaces

caustic is part of the claning process and strips the top layer of ally oxide off (to remove anodising i use a 200g/litre solution my procees for anodising is 1 clean part with hot water and washing up liquid 2 rinse with clean water 3 into a non caustic hot chemical de greaser 4 rinse 5 into caustic to etch 6 rinse 7 into nitric acid to de smutt other impurities 8 rinse 9 into sulphuric acid to do the anodising 10 rinse 11 into dye till colour is to the level you want 12 rinse 13 into csl to seal the anodising for 30 mins /you can boil for 30 mins in hot water but i prefer the csl 14 rinse 15 polish with autosol

caustic is fine with steel but don't let it near anything aluminium plus it's nasty stuff so rubber gloves and eye protection i use it as part of the process to anodise and usually use 100g/litre and heat to about 40c

no probs and free to anyone who can use them

Sadly only two windows are useable by the look as a branch had dropped on the others

the wing outer skin fixings are the same captive j nuts with the acme thread as the all round

top no 11 needs removing but lower 3 just need loosening

something like these i think but i'v never used them type pf jointers-i have used model making brass tube before and used .22rf cases i know we have a set of them along with a much bigger set for full size battery cables