western
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Posts posted by western
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Nice thread Les
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neat solution for showing lights off.
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Yep, I agree, these are a pain when you need to explain something.
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Thing is the circuit diagram doesn't show the connections at the column switch end, just a big circle representation of the coloumn switches, so it wouldn't be of much help.
here's a Defender circuit diagram
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Cheers Luke
I knew you were the man to confirm it -
I see, that makes sense, but it would have been better for the LDNP to explain the reason better, rather than let 110/longer WB vehicle owners think their being discriminated against.
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Ah, there you are, is my reply info correct ?????
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try the park switch on the motor, I've had this before a new park switch cured it, LR number for park switch is 520160, also avialable from Lucas agents.
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If you want to do Gatescarth remember you need permits and only RR, Disco and 90 can use it anything over 100 inch wheel base is banned.
That's just pure anti 110 discrimination
what possible damaged would a longer wheelbase vehicle do the a shorter one wouldn't. -
I'd love to come, but 10th to 17th on recovery duty on Tour of Mull rally then Smeatharphe rally on 20th, nothing on in November though
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BigSi, sorry to hear about your 110's misfortune, I hope NK sort it to your complete satisfaction, as others have said everything in duplicate writtten & inform police & your own insurers.
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main gearbox has a breather too, the top end should be at the back of the cylinder head/bulkhead area ( should be 3, main gb,transfergb, front axle)
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to power the switch indicator just use a jumper lead from the power to the light from switch to the warning light terminal on the switch, the other warning light terminal goes to earth, so it should put the warning light on when the worklight is on & warning light off when the worklight is off.
connections on relay [4 pin]
C1 or 87 to accessory/lights
C2 or 30 to in-line fuse power supply
W1 or 85 to on/off switch/warning light
W2 or 86 to earth/ground
using Luke's diagram, just delete 1 of the lights ( remaining one would be your worklight)
relay 30 is your permanent power feed via fuse (7.5amp) to the relay
relay 87 to your light
relay 86 to earth
relay 85 would be your on/off switch/warning light
hope that makes sense
Where's Luke when he's needed, only cos He's better @ electrics than me
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Try Chris Bashall http://www.surreyoff-road.com/layout.htm (supplied my original set of OME springs/dampers) or Exeter 4x4 store http://www.4x4store-exeter.co.uk/
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the old 2 inch ball coupling was killed of in the UK many years ago, all ours are 50mm with the top of the ball machined to a flat & stamped 50mm [or should be ]
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Hmmm, it might be Gates that make the timing belts for LR then, but I thought they only made the 300Tdi's serpentine belt for LR, I always fit Dayco timing belt & never had one fail in 13 years. everytime it's been changed @ 50,000mile intervals, the belt looks just as good as when it was fitted.
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Falco 4x4 have ceased trading their website says http://www.falcon4x4.com/
Falcon 4x4 is no longer trading.
We (Anne and Pete) would like to thank all our customers from the last few years for their support.
We have not stopped trading for any bad reasons - quite the opposite. We invented some ground breaking new products of our own and these have been such a huge hit we simply don't have the time or resources to keep Falcon going as well.
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your a busy boy, if you can't find the white/orange -- go for the white at the ignition switch, just pull the instrument pack towards the steering wheel & disconnect the speedo cable for access
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I use the purple live to feed my rear worklight relay, the relay just needs to be wired as per it's instructions (some here ) the switch & light can be earthed at thier respective locations.
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my driving lights & front fogs are earthed at the mounting point or in the engine bay on any convienient bolt, never had any problems doing it that way.
you can get double common feed bullet connectors from either Halfords/local car shop or V.W.P
pick up the main beam feed from behind the right headlight & look for a white/orange trace wire at the bulkhead -- this is the ignition controlled feed for the air condition system [when fitted] or go behind the instrument pack & piggyback of the white wires at the ignition switch.
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90/110 front wiper wires are
black - earth
green - power in
brown/light green
blue/light green
red/light green
without dismntling my own '89 110 I'm not sure which colour wire does what.
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No probs
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Not many heater pipes on a 200Tdi, the only steel one is a straight run alongside the left of the cylinder head, all the rest are preformed rubber hose.
these taken of my 200Tdi might help. the drawing is from my 200Tdi retro-fit booklet that came with my engine
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Fiiiiiiiiiiixed iiiiiiiittt!!
Thought the track rod ends had sorted the problem but after a few miles it came back - checked play in the swivels, and it was rocking slightly from 12-6 o clock.
Took a shim out of the top swivel and all nice and tight again and the wobbles have gone.
Simple innit
only simple when you've found the problem part, good to hear your wobbles
have gone
I knew you were the man to confirm it 
what possible damaged would a longer wheelbase vehicle do the a shorter one wouldn't.
have gone
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in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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i thought 'Gromit' was your trucks name as well as you username here