Maverik

You seem very pro Cellulose... and in the next sentance you say its banned... Is that for all "new" car paint production, or across the board? Mav

I just went and checked, and the present cap has 2 lugs on the outer edge facing inward, on the filler pipe the notchets are on the ouside edge. STC4072 looks like the locking lugs lock into the inside of the tube.

I don't mean to pry, but do you usually buy gearbox's you don't have a clue of what they are?

Multimeter - Buy a gray one as above link! the yellow ones cost 3 times as much!

Almost time for my truck to get painted, has anyone had experience of any body shops up in the blustery far north of Aberdeenshire? Cheers Mav

True, its more a time thing, I don't want it to drag out... re test another week waiting? etc etc. I'm trying to get it painted too all for the end of October... gonna be tight as it is... Still got some engine bits to do.. Also its pretty much all my own work thats up for scrutinisation, I want it to work first time, kinda of like an exam for me, hence why I'm being so anal about it.

I'd agree, intresting, he's probably just read it off its V5 it could be one of the 110 registered ones, specially at that age... but still if he got it all converted, you'd like to think he had a clue as to its wheel base...

I got one of these from Homebase!!! My link It's a really simple one, has a voltmeter and a continuity tester in it, and a small digital display, works a treat as I don't really need it to do anything fancy, but make sure you have a few spare batteries in stock, if you leave it switched on it drains it pretty quick. I'm sure there are better ones around, but its all I could get at the time, certainly got my moneys worth out of it.

Yup... hence its condition after 5 owners I guess. I think it only had "originally" 3 relays, everything is (was) straight through wired. I hadn't realised just how simple it was until I stripped a TD5 loom out of a TD5 bulkhead, holy monkeys....

It is true and I'm not expecting it to last very long! but presently even the most stubborn oil hasn't managed to leak out while its been sat not doing anything... I'am actually bricking it, it would'nt suprise me if the engine gives up on the way there! I'm fearing Jack frost had a good go at it last winter - 3k stripped engine from turners... price it up now then there's no dissapointment when it does happen. Unfortunatly the machine has bled all optamism out of me over the past year. Driving a finshied project better be as good as everyone makes it out to be!!!

I have an old tin type, 2 lug fuel filler cap and I'm thinking its a little vulnerable without a lock. Its RTC4740 My link Does anyone know an equivelant locking fuel cap for this fitting? from what I can see there isn't a Land rover one,unless I change the filler neck too which I would prefer not to have to do. Cheers Mav

Hmm its just getting it there and back thats the problem as I will have to drive it, I dunna want to get pulled over for not having TAX/MOT etc... I've been reading heeps on MOT tests, I think I'll catch most of the things, I'm a little concerned with the Emmisions/smoke test, it wasn't a bad smoker when I first brought it up the road, but its been sat in the drive for the past 10 months with only ever having engine test runs, which is not good when it comes to carbon deposit build ups. I'll be taking it the "scenic" route to the garage to try and give it a good run before hand with a tank of redex I'm hoping it will be ok, failing that I can't see I can do much more... I went to set up the headlamps last night and guess what, one of them blew straight off before I even got to the adjuster screw... then found that the reversing light switch had given up... talk about 1 step forward and 2 back....!

You'll probably pay through the nose for an Auto sparky... If you can find time you'd learn heeps doing it yourself. I didn't have a clue about auto electrics until I took mine apart as it had been chopped and changed by another "amature".. butcher... Having an original 86yr n/a loom I upgrade the fuse box to a blade type, put in new wire and relays for the headlamps (just kept the old wiring in for the lamps, can use as a back up if I need too) and just this last weekend I made a new engine harness. Its pretty simple stuff, if you sit down and follow the circuit diagrams. I went and got a wee multimeter thats ace. Now I have lights on my Dash that I nevere had before! good ones!!!

What needs re-wireing?

There are a fair few bits of loom on fleebay at the moment... search "land rover loom"

Lights - new/all work Tyres - new and new wheels Warning lamps - all work Oil leaks - non Wheel bearings - new Steering - new Suspension - new (except rad arms) Joints and bushes - new Seat belts... hmm 4 point harness's and buckets, fitted when I got it, but they seem to be done right, i.e. all anchor points to seperate fixings, correctly angled off the back of the seat etc. Squisher bottle - old, but washed out!

Ok, my truck is just about ready for its MOT - 1987 reg Land rover 90 with 200tdi disco transplant, the MOT is booked so I'm just running through final checks to make sure it will pass first time. Its booked into a Land Rover friendly garage (from what I'm told) Jim King, Inverurie, Aberdeenshire. The truck has been striped pretty much to the chassis and then re-built, but with nice new bolts and more. All my elctrics/lights work, its got a bit of a lift and some bucket seats and its kinda multi coloured at the moment as I've replaced a lot of dinted panels (see my build thread) My link Now I'm just looking for any advice for MOT time, anyone got anything I should be checking/doing to make it fly through without any problems? Thanks Mav

Conversion meaning Disco 200?? I common problem if the disco flywheel housing is used is that some bolts along the bottom of the housing are not used - meaning the engine gear box "couple" flex and as there are no bolts fixing the flywheel housing to the bottom of the engine, it opens up the rear end gasket and makes is leak, you need to put these bolts back in to solve any long term oil leak from this area, its not an easy job to do but I've got one bolt in so far out of 4. They're M10's that are straight through with a thread on the engine block side. Putting these bolts in help to keep the lower part of the gearbox and flywheel housing against the engine block thus stopping leaks.

Simples.... not.

Have you got a picture of the broken bits?

Sweet, that looks absolutly awesome!!!

Ahhh, you broken the clip fitting then. The nuts are a captive type, held in place by a steel cage/clip fitting that slides into the door pillar hole. Sometimes the clips crack and the square bolt jumps out, in this case you need to get some new fittings. There are heeps of kits on fleebay... My link The part number for the clips is MRC2178 My link

Is there not a air mass flow sensor? Being TD5 it can probably recognise that there is lack of air flow, so it stope you being able to rev the engine so you don;t damahe something...? just a guess. Smoke being... white? can you see it? smell it, feel it?

hmmm I repeatedly dropped them while I was re-attaching my door, what I did was fished it out using a bit of bent copper wire, from the lower hinge holes in the side, failing that leave it there and buy some more!

When I put the bushes in this way... there is like a fat fingers size gap between the bonnet and the wing, you actually see into the engine bay, it look extremely peculiar... so is that the "proper" way to do it? if you put it in the other way around the bonnet sits lower...