Maverik

4-5k would get you something like this My link To be honest, you'll have to put more money in (maintenance/fettling) for any Land rover of starting price 3k. Best look at Jap makes but even then you're gonna struggle with that budget. Will she still feel safe when she's broken down at the side of the road in a tatty 4x4... If I were you I'd have a word with her about car prices... How posh is she... My link it has tax & MOT...

Thanks for closeing this out, do you have any photo's of your new inner wings at all? How do they feel structurally?

Hi Toby and welcome to the forum! I've never seen a kit as you have described, you can sometimes pick up door seals in pairs from fleebay. There are some good parts sites around, but do you have a parts manual for your vehicle? If you haven't check out Jims site, he has the manuals to download My link - this is found in the Tech Archive also. Once you get the part numbers, you'll proabaly be able to pick up the seals you want quite easily, but yeah you'll have to get them individually. Mav

You should only be setting this with the whole unit together, *lubricated* swival ball wiper seals, attached hubs, discs etc. too be honest its difficult to get it too wrong, the main thing to avoid is too loose in which you will get wheel vibration at certain speeds, too heavy will cause excessive wear to the lower taper roller bearing and maybe damage them, but for this you have to do it well tight, if its a tad too tight with new bits then then thats no so much problem as they will bed down and settle a bit. Best thing is to get a spring balance, I picked one up on fleebay for peanuts, it at least allows you to set both sides to a similar load. as long as there is no slack in the joint and you can move it with your own strength, feeling a bit of resistance, then you'll be fine. Remember to give it a good wobble again when you get it back on the vehicle (if its off) when the wheel is on, this gives you more leaverage so will highlight the smalles ammount of play in the swival, if you get it start taking out some shims.

Ha, never thought about drilling drain holes... thats a good idea.

If you're talking about the older model proper "hinge" then: The hing top, i.e to windscreen is SE110401 and its an M10x40 thread with a big philips type cross screw head. The hinge to bulkhead is SS108404 is M8x40 allen socket head.

same difference really... you have to remove the same bits to get to em irrespective of wheather you have bulbs or sealed units, I swapped mine sealed units out for "crystal" halogen units, very pleased with them so far, admitadly I don't think they would stand up to wadeing. Whatever your fillements be held in, you should test them.

Hello, bit of a newbie to the freelander world so be kind. Did the wabesto engine coolent preheater come as standard on any models of the freelander? Cheers Mav

Yeah, I found a wee digger garage in the next village, thats my 2nd option. I've ordered the pipework now so going to see if I managed to get it right, if it don't fit, then I'll take the bits down to the garage to see what they can do for me.

I would check your bulbs too, whip them out and continuity test them to make sure the fillaments are still intact. I was chasing a light problem which was similar, turned out I had blown both head lamps.

Thanks for trying Ralph I appreciate it. I had a think about it last night and came up with this: NTC8287 PUMP ASSEMBLY NTC3066 PAS HOSE ASSEMBLY NTC6731 HOSE ASSY Now I'm not even sure I can write down the rational as to how I got to this conclusion.... but I figure the low pressure side of the pump where its clamp with a Jubilee clip, that will be relativly standard, if its not I can make my own conversion hose as its not critically high pressure so I went for NTC3066 as I found a picture of it and it looks about right... Now for NTC6731 high pressure PAS feed, I looked through the parts catalogue and cleverly* deducted that this was the right pipe for the pump... ... ... (*holding breath*) I hope! I figured I had to start somewhere! I ordered from Lrseries so when thay appear hopefully this week, I'll update this thread.

hahaha, are you serious... you need advice on what you need to buy for your truck...! I have a list as long as my arm of bits n pieces that need replacing/buying... to be honest I doubt there will ever be a day when that list runs out...

if the pin is corrosion free and shows no signs of wear then yes... i learnt the harder way and re-used the lower pin as it looked "ok" with only a slight polished area on them... i was wrong had play in the swivel i couldn't pre load out, so ended up getting some oem lower pins, bearmarch i think, solved the problem straight off.

My PAS pump failed at the weekend (yay), My LR90 has a 200tdi disco engine with muchas bodged pipework. The present pump that is on is NTC8288, the pipework is obviously bodged and needs replacing. I'm planning on fitting NTC8287 (banjo type fitting) (as I can get an OEM one for an acceptable price - £150) I've checked out the numerous posts on here regarding pumps/pipework and that with looking at my parts catalogue has pushed me over the edge... If anyone could tell me what pipes/hoses I need for this type of pump I would be appreciated. Mav

Sorry its an 86 reg defender (I am assuming it hasn't been changed) I reversed and clock did count down so... Hmmm I do actually have a TD5 speedo as well... I was wanting more of a quick fix than re wireing my dash loom, but maybe this is the better idea... I know there was a tech archive for doing all the other dial parts but I dodn;t know you could wire up a speedo too... is it possible to set the millage on a TD5 digital speedo?

Hmm, the glow plugs seal on a taper surface type thing look a bit like this \\____// it seals inside the head much closer to the glowing end rather than the screw that you see on top of the engine.

te hehe, where you drag racing it, trying to keep up with road cyclists

We're talking about the plug in 12v type rather than the figure hugging waterproof ones... My present speedo trip counter appears to be kaput, not very helpfull when trying to work out how many miles you got left (not relying on the fuel gauge) I have another speedo, but it registers 40k more than my present one, presnt thoughts was to wind it back to what my milage is now on the old clock... When I hooked it up to my drill to do a trial run something I hadn't figured was that the needle "bottoms out" on its stop when winding it back, doing this for a continous amount of time (approx 2 days at reasonably fast rpm) is this going to damage my speedo output reading? Cheers Mav

Thanks for your comments guys, from the looks of it I think T-max or the P38 option are looking the most attractive. The annoying thing is I can't find a catalogue for the T-max compressors, what model is this twin one a few of you have? Cheers Mav Actually tracked them down to the Bearmach products catalogue... how tedious is that thing!! yikes... ok now thourghly confused, I found a BA2663 with a pump on eather end... and I've found another BA2663 with one pump that looks a bit bigger than BA2641, anyone care to clarify?

A standard tank size for a 90 drivers side under seat tank is 54 ltrs... now I'm actually running a wee experiment myself at the moment to work out what the fuel dial is doing, as a well know fact they are disasterous at showing what the actual fuel level is... From some guestimates I've worked out that the fuel light starts to flash on (going around right hand corners) with approximatly 20 litres still in the tank... I've been getting about 28mpg on my 200tdi, and I'm quite heavy with the old accelarator.

I have been though as many topics as I can find through Google and Lr4x4 but what I found was mainly on engine driven units. Looking for a lightweight 12v air system to install in my LR90. Options I'm considering: T-max 4x4 adventurer VIAIR compact ARB compact Its main purpose will be for tire inflation, with the possibility in mind for putting a small tank in to have a reserve for other uses - all be it light duty uses. The VIAIR and ARB both come with tanks and thats reflected in the price. Has anyone had good/bad experiences of either. Cheers Mav

leave it on? Quick question, I have a Mondeo single fan, didn't think I could get a double fan combo onto the back of the radiator, how you manage it?, you have any photos? Mav

haha, meaning - if the body work is in good nick then thats half the battle, the mechanical parts are a doddle compared to the faff of getting a new doors, seat box, rear tub, bonnet, bulkhead, rear door, wings sorted out! I hear your pain...

The problem with an air lock is that when the engine gets hot the air expands and pressurises the system making it a bit more "volatile", meaning be very very carfull taking the top off the header tank while its hot as it could spit a fair ammount of hot water at you. (as you depressurise the sytem, the air lock will have wanted to expand, but will be kept compressed by the closed system, so as soon as you open it, it will expand, its ok if the air is at the top of the tank as you just will hear a woosh, but if its behind some liquid, i.e. in a pipe, it will push that liquid out as it expands) As long as the system is still cooling the engine (not in the red) then you wont have a problem and you'll find the air lock will probably sort itself out, just keep an eye on the coolent level in the tank. Did you bleed the system with the engine up at temp (i.e. when themostate is open and water flowing through the rad)? On my 200tdi, I think Haynes suggests it, when the car is up to temp (not red hot from motorway driving, but from a nice idle start up as it where) you carfully - and I stress that! unscrew the radiator filler cap and "bleed" it. I always wear some goggles and gloves for doing this as don't want hot water where it hurts. All you usually have to do is uncrew the plug until the last few threads and like a house hold radiator it will spit water at you and some bubbles/air then you'll start to get a steady stream, then you screw it back in.

Google, "discovery 300tdi conversion"...