Maverik

Possible, but I would say its a remote chance, as I'd expect the problem to be there all the time and not just on start up (but when has a failure ever been reliable). I do have a set of Silicone air hoses to go on, I was waiting for a slightly less hospitable outside temperature to appear before having a go at it.

Potentially, but its not just a spike on the gauge - the vehicle runs noticeably different, I'll be accelerating in 2nd very sluggish then without moving the accelerator you feel a surge, smoke goes and it suddenly accelerates and the boost pressure drops slightly.

No, its T'd off the pipe from the turbo to the Injector pump boost pin module.

Hi folks, Does anyone have any experience with any moisture removal in vehicles, either mini dehumidifier or silica bags? Cheers Mav

Standard place T'd off the turbo compressor snail.

The Bosch VE manual gives a good explanation of the hydraulic advance mechanism which the spacer effectively modifies, I think the Video on Stegs site i think it is - is quite informative.

Yes! but what is sticking is the question... I've got a wee test pump just waiting for some PTF tape to arrive so I can test the actuator and boost pin independently, see if that shows any "sticking" - but from what I've tested so far I don't think its the actuator or pin.

I see I have 2 options here, live with it, or I need more diagnostics, as I cant get my head around how this is really happening, as through normal operation I can't get the manifold pressure anywhere near where it spikes up too, which suggests its potentially over fueling allowing the engine to spin the turbo high enough for it to spike as high as it does. I installed the turbo summer 2020 which was amazingly warm... I remember first noticing this behavior early last year, can't put an exact date on it.

ok - you've got my attention - I do have a boost ring fitted... got it off ebay, not from Stegs.... The one I've got is this - Land rover defender discovery 300 / 200 tdi boost Dynamic Timing shim - Advance | eBay It came with the correct profile O rings etc. I would be surprised in any difference in quality between that and Stegs after all its just a spacer - if this is causing an issue but open to suggestions... I've got a couple of other diagnostic things I want to try, but I can't rule out that I've got something sticking on the injector pump which is totally unconnected to the VNT turbo.

The problem is, on initial starting after being stopped for a little time - the engine runs poorly until the "spike" has happened, then it runs normally and in fact pretty well after I put the original fuel pin back in and tweaked it a little.

Not quite an answer to your question, but I've got some later type all steel doors and they're 5 years old and the skins have started to blister and rust. Non galvanised frames. To my father in laws truck I fitted some galv frames with alu skins from SP and they looked pretty good, bit of prep needed but they fitted perfectly.

No small list of items changed too, I really hope it works for the effort you've put in, but the pessimist in me is screaming there will be some crazy integration issues after you've changed controllers etc. I so hope there isn't. 🤞🤞🤞

Somthing I discovered last year was some councils have pretty decent "definitive" maps online and they pretty clearly show what lanes are open and what isn't Newforest county council has a decent one, but I guess is council specific. It's worth a Google.

Contacts on the starter motor solenoid. You can buy a rebuild kit with a bigger contact area. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-2-TD5-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-NAD101240-/124986296225?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Not so clear from the photo but its actually not made much of a mark at all, it's just a line that's been drawn in oily gloom, you can't feel any scoring.

Yeah of course, but your also adjusting the flow over the turbine, now I get spilling air via a bypass ( as per conventional turbo) your just sending less gas through it, vnt I guess your either slowing or speeding up the gas before it hits the turbine, just struggling to understand interaction yet.

Took it out and did the same, spiked up then ran within expected parameters. Something interesting though is it appears its the fueling that controls the max boost pressure, which I was struggling to get my head around, as the standard boost pin must be under fueling compared to the other pin as my max boost was limited to 1.2-1.3bar as opposed to 1.45. I'll run it a bit more like this and see if its still does the sticking thing, and when the new gauge comes I'll test the actuator and turbo again.

Indeed... I might have got a devious plan waiting in the wings... along with many other projects...

Back on topic Back on topic, just been out to fettle. Put my wee pump onto the actuator on the turbo and it didn't seem to stick or anything, The scale on the gauge isn't great a bit small, but there was nothing that indicated anything sticking - got a more sensitive gauge ordered so can try this again later to double double check. So checked the other end - I had found a bit of oil carry over into the boost line before so check this and it was super clean still from the engine rebuild. For good measure I popped the top of the boost compensator on the FIP and pulled the pin, I did find some pretty gloopy oil on the pin, so cleaned that all out and washed it with WD and dried it out a bit. I did have some generic "performance/non factory" pin in thought i'd give it a whirl but thinking I need to take it back to basics so threw the original factory pin back in and set it to what I was running it last year when everything was going ok. Will be taking for a test drive shortly see what happens if anything.

Apparently some Discovery's had the EDC controlled pump... A reasonable overview.

hehe, in some form I imagine, its potentially a way of doing away with boost pins and having to change the gradient on them to alter the fueling - I would have though there would be a manifold pressure input into the ECU. Bit of a pipe dream idea to be honest, if I didn't have a day job this would keep me busy for a while. - interesting idea though, with a scrap T4 with the right engine would be fun to give it a go. Something like this could do... VW T4 1996-2003 TRANSPORTER GENUINE COMPLETE 2.5TDI ENGINE, CODE AJT 135K MILES | eBay

Electronic controlled, better fuel control.

Interesting - turns out they where used in VW T4's and it appears the ECU's are pretty easily available.

Reading the Bosch VE pump technical book... and this morning's googling... Yes I reckon I could be certifiable... not sure I've got the patience or the spare wallet notes but... Need to do a bit more figuring out as to whether or not I can find a controller that is controllable enough to play with... Bosch VE EDC 0460414997 Re-manufactured unit | eBay

Or just drill a hole in the inner wing and pop a long-ish bolt through it and use that as a terminal point. - I did that years ago on the rear tub corners, then ran an independent earth from it back to a suitable point.