Maverik

If its off I'd replace it. In my experience you need a good amount of force to even just check its tight, I chased a clunck for months as I couldn't manually see any play in the a frame ball joint, but the force and load applied while driving obviously was enough to displace it.

Just to close the boost spike initial problem. I never quite got to the bottom of the issue, in way that I decided to remove the VNT and put back to standard in which I now have and she runs as she should. I suspect the problem is with the angle the boost actuator rod works on the vane actuator on the turbo, that it was not a smooth action, I plan to do some bench tests when I've got nothing better to do to hopefully confirm this, suffice to say she drives perfectly well with the standard turbo all be it with the fueling tweaked up a bit and a boost ring installed. I'm also planning on increase the boost pressure by shortening the rod a turn or two to take it up to 0.8-0.9bar. Should improve hill climbing and EGT top temp.

Hmmm I fear that something has gone amiss when I changed the injector pump, if you follow the rub marks it looks like the tensioner has diverting the belt back into position after possibly being bumped out of alignment off the injector pump pulley. I think I need to have a look at the injector pump make sure it's sitting square on the housing.

I think this could be part of the problems too.

So turns out all along it wasn't the belts... or the PAS, I took all the belts off and the noise was still there, noise only went when I removed the crank pulley.

So on further investigation... I'm having no luck with this truck.

So I'm having a bad time. My belt squeak is not a belt squeak, got as far as having the crank damper off and the squeaking has stopped... can an old damper make a squeak by itself?

No I doubt it, pretty straight forward operation. - but I was working out how old it is, I remeber replacing it when I put the engine in which was 2014 apparently! so its not done too badly, I just wonder if all the taking it on and off in the last 6 months has just unsettled it? anyways new one just arrved so I'm off to go change it before the snow tomorrow!

Well I've ordered a new pump so will throw that on and hopfully sorts the issue. The money pit has been rather deep lately...

Interesting one, Def 200tdi - PAS pump NTC9070 - out the blue after taking the engine out last to re-do the rear oil seals on putting engine back in the PAS belt (what I thought) has started squeeling. When engine is removed the PAS pump is just dismounted (not dissconected). - put a new belt on, no difference, replaced PAS pulley... no difference. I removed the belt and ran her and there was no noise so it is from the PAS area. I did wonder if the crank pulley was dirty, so threw some soapy water at it and it didnt do anything. Took the belt off and span the pump by hand and it feels normal with no noise. Odd symptoms, if you load the engine by steering when not moving the noise doesnt really change, - which to me means its not actually a belt slip problem, as I'd expect the noise to change when the pump is loaded - so am I hearing the noise of a front bearing failure in the PAS pump? Cheers Mav

Have you driven it? To feel what is like under foot under normal driving conditions? I say this as I remeber having this symptom with a D1, when I actually went to drive it, the pedal sink didn't effect the feel or braking ability and you didn't actually notice it. To me the physics didn't make sense, but it worked ok. Try bleeding with the engine running?

I ground the shoulder off a 30mm socket to allow it to go into the space for removing the A-frame ball main nut, hasn't really compromised it for any other use either. Combined with a wobble bar extension works pretty well. Crank shaft front bolt on a 200tdi is 30mm. The only nuts which are bigger are the wheel bearing nuts, in which I just use a box spanner for.

7 hour test dive successfully completed. This is the first time I've witnessed the engine wanting to run on the cooler side of 90deg C. Happy days, I'm convinced the head gasket can't have been right for some time certainly since the engine rebuild, lots of lessons learnt here for me, thanks for everyone's input. Mav

So she's back together, coolant system flushed and new blue coolant in use. Had a good road test and after a few hold breath moments as the temp spiked just before the thermostat opened, she ran considerably cooler and after an hours run, all well pipework a firm but not rock hard feel amd coolant level where it should be. Something I did notice was my guage reading was a little inconsistent, seemed to bounce between 87 and 91 far too quickly which is unusual behaviour, so I'll change the sender tomorrow to see if that sorts the issue. Now the drive north tomorrow in preparation to pull the engine this weekend to sort out the rear engine oil leakage!

for info Recall LAND ROVER R/2014/092 - Vehicle Recall UK (vehicle-recall.co.uk) summary: Recall Date 2014-11-28 Reason for concern FRONT WHEEL MAY DETACH Reason for recall It has been established that in extreme cases the front axle tube could fracture over a period of time. If not identified this could result in the detachment of the wheel and hub assembly. Remedy Recall all affected vehicles and fit additional brackets to hold the hub/tube assembly in place should the tube fracture. More information: https://www.vehicle-recall.co.uk/recall/R/2014/092

Read my post above ^^ I suplied the part number and a link to Turners website.

I think you'll find the spigot has a series part number, on my 200 its actually brass, which is handy. Try 624091 624091 Adapter Pipe Coolant (turnerengineering.co.uk)

Just a quick one, but thought I'd share. Purging my coolant system ready for a coolant type change and there's all sorts of nasty deposits left in my clear header tank, its a bit of a tricky beast to clean as it has lots of internal structure so poking a brush in is pretty impossible. Well after some trial and error, I've found that oven cleaner squirted into the bottle and left to sit for a while seems to do a decent job of lifting the crud, you might have to do it a few times with rinse outs and re-applications but it does the job. Mav

Land rover had a recall on front axles - end failures towards the end of defender production, they fitted these wierd catch brackets not to stop the issue but to stop the wheels from fully disconnecting in the event of. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Land-Rover-Defender-Front-Left-Hand-Axle-Mounting-Bracket-LR068818-/255075412311?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Common ticking noise can be from the head gasket on 300's, Google 300tdi clicking.

It does happen... Slipped straight on with a wee twist of the crank... just make sure you do it right... and don't have to remove it again... next week... deep sigh...

I'd say that hose joint is the issue, make sure you give the engine bay a good wash then go for a drive to dry it out, then you'll see if any more appears.

New injector nozzles - serviced by a specialist - lots of smoke afterwards - sounds very much like my experience, swaped back some good old injectors and it stopped the smoking and got better performance.

Not high crank case pressure as such, but the engine was breathing quite hard, i.e. oil carry through the breather is as much if not a bit more than I've seen on the previous engine.

Good advice, to be honest it never even crossed my mind regarding head cleaning and keeping flatness, some valuable leaning here!