LandyLee

thanks for the replies , I noticed in one of this months mags , one of the rebuilds had bought a set of britpart galv sill pices that I need . So I`ll go for these , and I`ll use YRM metal solution for the fuel tank mount , bullkhead repair sections and exhaust and other brackets that I need. I don`t think I`ll bother with the castor correction then as it sounds a problem and TBH I run a disco with 1.5" lift for 5 years without a prob. As for the rear cranked arms , after discussing it I`ve found out that I can`t use them if I want to enter local off roading events.

I`ve seen quite a few landys that when brought in for mot have water issues , I have noticed on quite a few that the wiring grommet wasn`t sealed up right and I wonder whether this is the issue ?? or is it just that the light is not sealed to the bowl correctly ??

After stripping my 92 defender I have found quite a few rusty/useless parts !!!! where can I get new/used : The metal box section pieces that connect the tub to the bulkhead - the bottom door seal is screwed to these . The brackets that connect the chassis to the seat belt brackets on the tub The front fuel tank mount all mine are very corroded and I wouldn`t want to re use them !!! Also before rebuilding the new chassis with +2"springs/shocks etc that I`ve bought , how important is it to have cranked rear bars and castor corrected front arms and the adjustable panhard rod ?? will the defender be ok without them or will it be better to start saving a bit more. I am polu bushing the 90 now and don`t want , for example, the rear bushes to wear out very fast due to incorrect angles etc.

my 90 has this play on the input gear (lt230) , I thought the box had to be stripped to fix it ??? anyone have a tutorial on how to do this please

I`d go with slipping belt , from experience that is ,,,,,,

we use the decelerometer for the service brakes and use a hill to test the hand brake ,, I`ll check with vosa tomorrow as for official answer but no way would I pull handbrake up on customers when I MOT

the snorkel just takes air from higher up than the wing , it still goes through the air filter

Its alot of work !!! I have just started doing mine ,, I`m about halfway through stripping down my 92 defender, I have the new chassis next to it ready but can`t see me getting to fit anything for a few weeks yet. I`m a mechanic by trade and am doing the rebuild in the garage but still find it hard work due to seized/rusted bolts. Best of luck with yours anyway and get plenty of wd40 on all the bolts before you start !!

exhaust gas temp ,,,, have you fitted a sensor to the exhaust then ??? I would set oil pressure warning to go off if oil pressure goes below 1 bar same as most switches , as for the transfer box oil temp I`ll check the usual oil temp range for you tomorrow in work if you need

Beta tools is local to me in newport , their tools seem to be ok and not far from blue point / mac quality

I`ve already got my floor panels off and your right i just traced wires ,, they were high resistance at gearbox end

wurth sell it to the trade for about that BUT you can get it from caravan shops known as w7 repair tape and is used to repair caravan panels and windows etc

I have this exact problem as well , havent looked at it yet but was expecting just the bulb to be gone as my difflock still works just no warning light

check the earth to the gauge , sounds like it has lost it

Hi everyone I`m a newbie on here but as well as a landy owner I`m an mot tester ,,,,, we are supposed to test oil temperature with sensor before doing the emission test but can bypass this if needed. The throttle limit method works ok ,so does removing the air filter/running the engine with forte fuel conditioner/running on various fuel mixtures . Generally I would say just find a sympathetic mot tester and you`ll be ok, we are supposed to rev the vehicle to governor/limiter once and release not hold it on limiter as I have seen some do. Any issues try reading testing manual at motinfo site