Koni shocks are very well built and I`ve fitted many sets both to customer and my own vehicles over the years , If I could afford em I`d put them on my own Landy
Does anyone have any photos of the front brake pipe routing to the calipers and around inner wings etc , it`s just so I can check mine is absolutely correct, not one 90 has come near my garage since I started doing the brake pipes for me to check !!!!
I`m still doing mine ,,,, unfortunately every time I go and work on it I find something else that really needs either changing or stripping , refurbishing and painting !! If your landy was mint other than the chassis then you could rush it , otherwise its the best time to change clutch, sort out gearbox , rewire, new brake pipes , polybush etc etc
the optima etc being a gel cell battery can operate upside down !! i.e. it isn`t sensitive to position of operation or mounting. They are definitely less sensitive to vibration and produce phenomenal CCA ability. My old red top optima which survived over 10 years use was the best battery I ever had and produced a claimed 850 CCA and I believe it !!
Useful point is that quite a few local test centers send their class 7s to us as there is only two stations locally that can do class 7. With this in mind I would check your local station is equipped. Even the local ford dealership sends us their 7s !!! We make no extra charge for class 7 and to be honest the differences are small.
Don`t really understand why they fit cats to diesels and then just ask us to test for smoke density , might be awkward when particulate filters get fitted ??
Best deal we get on batteries right now is off vauxhall , through the trade club we get a big ,I think, 096 size battery with 3 year warranty for £56 :blink:
I usually go to my local battery supplier , and try the batteries to see what fits etc . We`re lucky that 2 miles away is a major supplier of batteries so never had problems upgrading. What kind of battery are you looking for ? gel cell or lead acid ordinary ?
we`ve got it on subscription and as such my laptop has it on there as I use it for diagnostics etc. It gives good wiring diagram coverage and repair times and timing belt procedures etc. There are illegal copies floating around but considering autodatas policy of prosecuting illegal users I wouldn`t like to comment on its availability ;)
Relaying the headlights will ensure that the maximum available voltage is across the bulb and hence max output. What bulbs are you fitting in your lights ? allow basically 5A for each 55watt bulb and 10A for 100 Watt bulb.
just discs and pads , 4hours would be about right. Takes about 2 hours to do in the garage so allowing for awkward caliper bolts and splitting the discs off without an airgun etc 4 hours would be right.
the bulbs used for the sidelight are capless sideligt bulbs - 5w. As for the spotlights just wire them to an illuminated switch so you know they are on. Also check the wiring to the lights themselves, I see alot of landys with melted headlight plugs and water damaged wiring such that the actual voltage across the bulb is alot less than the actual battery voltage
he`s right , try using your gps and look at the speed shown. In my defender 60 mph indicated was 54mph on the gps. As for 75 mph !!! much over 65mph and I was white knuckle in it. Will try it once I`ve finished the rebuild but doubt I`ll get much over that !!!
we use the whole forte range at work with good results BUT I don`t like oil flushes personally. I think its better to change the oil then change again within a few hundred miles if you`re trying to flush the system. I`ve seen a few engines sound a little "tappity" after flushing with this type of product