Dave W

http://www.muddytruckers.co.uk/

There is no one angle but, as has already been said, it's usually the driver that bottles before the truck rolls. Suspension lifts, high mounted spare wheels, roll cages all typically reduce the angle the vehicle will cope with. The taller your vehicle stands and the higher up the weight the more prone it will be to falling over. Offset wheels with wider tyres can, on the other hand, reduce the centre of gravity and hence improve the side slope angle the vehicle can cope with.

Has anyone got any MS2 daughtercards or know where I can source them in the UK ? Bill is out of stock and so is Glenn's garage and I could do with a couple in the next week or so.

For most DC devices you can simply work out the likely current draw by measuring the resistance across them which can be done with any multimeter. I = V/R Assume voltage to be 14v, I is the current in Amps, R is the resistance in Ohms. A device that measures 2 ohms will draw 7 Amps, a device that measure 0.5 of an ohm will draw 28 Amps.

I ran 10 spline ARBs front and rear in mine for a few years with standard (albeit imperial axles) shafts and CVs. I inspected the shafts regularly and over about 4 years use in challenge events probably replaced half a dozen shafts but only 2 actually failed, the others were replaced at the first sign of any twisting on the splines. I was running a 3.9 V8 and 35" Simex. When I did the 2005 Outback Challenge I broke a single rear shaft during the whole 7/8 days of competition and that was in a boulder strewn creek bed when I dropped a wheel into a hole and basically drove out of it on 3 wheels with all the weight of the vehicle on one wheel. The only things I did always do were: a) Carry a spare for each shaft and a couple of CVs b) Remove the shafts regularly, ideally after every competition, and replace any that look to have twisted. c) When one needed replacing through failure or through inspection, always replace the opposite side too - it's very likely they both suffered. d) Always buy second hand shafts from a 4x4 breaker - not only is it cheaper but they always seemed to last better than even new genuine ones. Maybe they get work hardened or something or just newer ones aren't made as well. i was running RRC ones though so second hand ones in 2005 would have been 10-20 years old. e) Drive gently when you have the lockers in, especially the front. Avoid using lots of power with the steering on full lock. The real downside of the 10 spline ones is the lack of an upgrade path. For the 2008 OBC with a much more powerful engine I couldn't risk the standard shafts anymore. I could have had the 10 spline ARBs converted to 24 spline but it actually worked out cheaper to sell the 10 splines on and buy new 24s. If I were buying new I think I'd always go for 24 spline these days, simply because it gives you an easy upgrade path at a later stage, especially for the front where a breakage can cost you a lot of time compared to a rear which will only lose you a few minutes if you have the right kit with you.

Having had a brief exchange on the MJ forum with Brent, MJ support looks like a possibility. Given how much simpler the MJ is it'll probably only take me an evening's work to get MJ support into v1 of the app. I'll borrow an MJ unit off someone, I know at least two people who have unbuilt kits that they've had for a few years. I've knocked together a web site for the app where I can collect info, documentation and post development progress as and when I get/make the time, it's available at: http://mobisquirt.org

I've not looked at MegaJolt, no idea if it uses a comms format similar to MS or if, like MS, it uses a different format for every software version. If it's not too different then I can't see why I couldn't support it if I can get hold of one to play with.

There are 3 major versions planned. Version 1 will work with all versions of MegaSquirt and will allow you to display and log data I believe it will also work with MicroSquirt but that has yet to be tested. Version 2 will have options to be able to modify fuel and ignition tables, I'm planning both 2D and 3D views on the tables with realtime editing/burning. It may also included limited setting changes, such as reqFuel. Version 3 will allow you to make changes to a lot more of the settings. At some point I hope to get access to an iPad so I can create iPad specific views and that will be introduced into the rollout, hopefully sometime between v1 and v2. The app will be a free download from the AppStore and I'm recommending an RS232-WiFi adaptor from RealNetworks because I know they work, they're cheap compared to most and available worldwide. (RN-134 is the module I am currently using).

The code isn't really very portable to other platforms. It could be used as a basis for an app on another platform but other than ripping some of the utility and data/comms functions out of it you'd almost have to start again. That's an old video ! This is a newer one, from last month... The first test version of the app is expected to be completed and shipped around mid December work commitments allowing.

If you put a volt meter between your PWM output and battery +ve you should see the voltage vary depending on the current PWM setting. If it's measuring 12v (or battery voltage anyway) then it's on solid. One thing you should be aware of though that may be confusing at first, the PWM on some versions of MS1-Extra doesn't actually do anything until the engine is cranking or running. If you just turn the ignition on you won't get anything meaningful from the PWM. Once it starts getting ignition events it will start issuing a correct(ish) PWM signal. If you're using indirect trigger events (EDIS for example) you may find you won't get anything until it's cranked over a couple of rotations.

MRC5314 is the fastener 300693 is the "staple" it hooks onto RRC3815 is a tapped plate that goes on the underside of the bonnet.

The last one I did I just used the crank signal as the OEM arrangement uses a VR sensor and the crank has a missing tooth which is more than adequate to run the engine well. There's no real benefit in using the cam signal as well unless you fancy trying out sequential injection/ignition but as that's not really a viable option unless you go for an MS3 it's easier to just ignore it. The cam signal on the Thor is pretty complicated in that it relies on the width of the teeth rather than just a simple missing tooth or similar, decoding that would mean having it added to the code. It is, IIRC, a simple logic level pulse though rather than VR. It would be possible to decode it with an MS2 or MS3 as james has already put in similar code for the LS1 crank signal but I'm not aware of any suitable decoder being there at present. I have a working msq for a Thor running MS1-Extra 29y4 off OEM crank if it would be any help. I'd go with MS1-Extra or MS3 if you feel like living on the edge for a while. MS2-Extra will work too but I find the lack of available outputs quite annoying on the MS2 with so many of them sacrificed to the IAC which you don't need in this case. I only use MS2-Extra for vehicles fitted with steppers and stay with MS1 for anything else. The OEM idle valve can be used as a PWM in case you hadn't realised that.

£675 currently... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=51 Not sure if Dave gives a forum discount on that, you'll have to negotiate or I'm sure he'll be along shortly as he's a regular on this forum

If it's stuck in first it's not the kickdown cable, it's most likely a governor problem. Generally this problem only occurs when the gearbox is cold and, once it warms up and starts shifting, it will shift quite normally after that point. A brief explanation here... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=221 You can replace the governor and/or it's O rings (can be done in situ if you remove the transfer box) but if the problem is caused by bits of brake bands floating around it may well be an early indication that you're going to need to rebuild the gearbox at some point soon. Every gearbox I've ever had do this always ended up losing the A clutch (no forward drive at all but reverse is fine) so unless there's a split o ring or something like that replacing the governor is unlikely to be a long term fix.

It's unusual for it not to change down, the more common problem is that of it sticking in 1st when cold. The kick down cable is the first thing to check, make sure it's correctly adjusted and/or attached.

We won't know for certain until the MSA have clarified their new regulations and agreed (or not) with our proposed interpretation of their new regulations. If they don't agree with our interpretation and don't give the necessary assurances we will need to seek insurance via other means which will probably increase the entry fee. As a guideline though last time the entry fee was £175 per vehicle.

Your question is a bit vague I suspect. If you change the motor from a 12v unit to a 24v unit and run it with the 12v electrics it won't perform very well at all. If you leave the motor as a 12v unit and change the electrics to 24v it will probably work better than it does now in speed and power BUT you will need to use your freespool rather than feeding the rope out under power or the motor will burn out quickly. You can only really use a 12v motor on a 24v system when it;s under load although you MAY get away with it in short bursts. If you change the motor and the electrics to 24v you won't see much difference in performance in short bursts but 24v tends to be better in long pulls because of the lower current draw and the fact you can get an alternator closer to matching the current requirements. Given that you've got a cheap and cheerful winch, how long it would actually last if you increased the power going through it is anyone's guess. Having said that standard 8274s don't last that long when you start increasing the power and speed either

Sorry, there will not be any provision for spectators as far as I am aware at either of the North Yorks sites. There was some discussion of a spectator stage at one of the Duns sites but I'm not sure if that's going to happen yet.

It'll be across the width, measured using a SLIGHTLY oversize caliper but don't bank on it being very oversize

It's a town in the Scottish Borders... http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?client=safari&q=Duns+map&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&hl=en&hq=&hnear=Duns,+Scottish+Borders,+United+Kingdom&ll=55.175731,-1.697388&spn=2.249247,4.438477&t=h&z=8

The format and date for the 2011 Muddy Truckers has been PROVISIONALLY decided on. There is just too much land available to do it justice in 2 days so we moved the start forward a tad as you will see. Schedule: Thursday 3rd - North Yorkshire Signing on opens at 10 am Night Section Compulsory Camping Friday 4th - North Yorkshire Competition starts at 9 am Finishes at 5 pm Travel to Duns either friday night or Saturday morning, accommodation is up to the competitors (camping may be available at Duns if required). trailers may be used and/or taken to Duns. Saturday 5th - Duns Competition starts at 9 am Finishes at 5 pm Night Section Compulsory Camping Sunday 6th - Duns Competition starts at 8 am Sites close 2 pm Prize Giving 3 pm (ish) Eligibility All makes and types of road legal light 4x4. Quads and similar are not eligible to enter. Which are Road taxed, tested where applicable, and insured for road use. All documentation will be checked at signing on. Tyres no more aggressive than Simex (no Maxi Cross etc) and no bigger than 36” tall 13” wide. All tyre sizes will be measured, not the sizings on the tyre wall. . Portal axles, hydra steer, 4 wheel steering are not allowed. Helmets are not compulsory but are recommended. As usual it's a team event for teams of 2 vehicles, max entry is 15 teams (ish) As usual all proceeds will go to nominated charities, these are yet to be decided on. The event may run under MSA regulations, that has yet to be decided while we await clarification from the MSA on some of the new regulations. If we do run under MSA regulations/permit then all drivers will need an MSA license.

Wind the lock stops out a bit ?

Where have you connected the MAP pipe to ? Cranking PW sounds about right assuming each bank is firing once per cycle. What about flood clear mode ? I'll PM my email address so you can send me the files.

Am I right in thinking this is a fuel only Megasquirt installation ? Have you tried starting it in "flood clear" mode ? (Throttle to the floor and hold it there while you crank) If it starts in this mode (the MegaSquirt reduces the fuelling substantially in this mode) it would suggest overfuelling either as a result of a bad fuelling map/required fuel setting or a problem with the fuel pressure. How confident are you that the fuel system is correctly configured ? If the return pipe from the fuel rail isn't clear you'll get massive overfuelling. Can you post your .msq file and a data log from when you are cranking it ? Not sure what file formats this forum accepts but hopefully it will let you post those. In particular I'd be interested in knowing the coolant temperature and the injector pulse width whilst cranking.

Just like any other problem you need to work through the basics. When you are cranking the engine are you getting an RPM reading in Megatune ? Are you getting any spark at all ? Are you getting fuel ? Fix/check each of those potential problems in turn and you'll be most of the way to getting it running. Unfortunately this forum does suffer from a "there be dragons here" attitude towards MS installations that don't use EDIS and MS1 but there's no reason why your setup shouldn't run, it's probably just a minor wiring problem. If you can answer the 3 questions above it'll give more clues and help narrow down where the problem is.