Dave W

It's part of the chassis loom.

As long as it has power the EDIS unit should run the ignition system without the MS ECU connected (providing it has power). I'd start by checking that the coils have power to them. If the injectors are firing when you are cranking that would suggest the MS is getting a signal from the EDIS so the VR sensor is probably OK, that being the case it would suggest either the ignition coils don't have a 12v supply or your EDIS unit has a bad earth. Have you connected to the MS with some tuning software to see what's happening ?

There are too many things "wrong" with that. It's not an FFR underneath, it's supposed to have been a GS but there doesn't seem to be much of the original GS left, if anything at all. I'm far from a military LR expert so could well be wrong but that looks more like a civvy LR painted green. I had a 110 V8 GS a few years older than that one and the only parts of that vehicle that I would say are still original are the bonnet and the rear tub. The rest seems to have been replaced with civilian versions. As others have said, it's overpriced and not even close to original, a bit like painting a Suzuki Vitara camel yellow and trying to palm it off as a camel trophy support vehicle.

I got one of these a couple of years ago and been very happy with it, although I haven't seen it that often as it spends most of it's time circulating between club members... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370228592955 As well as folding it is also shipped "flatpack" and can be quickly unassembled into 3 or more parts (depends how small you need it) which take up far less room than a folding version and in the limited garage space I have it's easier to store it in 2 or 3 different places. It only took around 5 minutes to dismantle it enough for it to fit in the back of a BMW 3 series. The design makes it a lot more stable than the previous folding MM version I had and in it's most basic "folded" form it sits on 4 wheels so is far more stable than the folding version which sits on 2 wheels, a wing and a prayer. I do tend to remove the legs and store them elsewhere though rather than leave them folded up.

The .ini files determine the scales of all the gauges for Megatune, you can even define your own gauges (like the fuel consumption gauge). You need to find the correct .ini file (msns-extra.ini if you're using MS1-Extra code) in your "car" folder. In the [GaugeConfigurations] section there's a definition for the temp gauge that looks like this... "Coolant Temp", "%TEMP", -40, 120, -15, 0, 95, 105, 0, 0 You can edit that line to set the limits and the warning/danger levels (yellow and red areas). The first six numbers allow you to change the low and high values, the low danger level, low warning level, high warning level, high danger level. Back the file up before you edit it, just in case

I built a wireless one a few years back based around some modules that include their own rotating access code, similar to an alarm fob. Range was very good and was pretty reliable. The controller was built into a "chunky" waterproof box in the hope it would be less likely to get lost. LPRS are a good source for suitable comms link components... http://www.lprs.co.uk/ I made the mistake (in hindsight) of trying to keep everything at the receiver end as small as possible and used some PCB mounted relays to control the winch. These turned out to be unreliable and caused the project to be put on the shelf until I got another round tuit.

On 35s with a 3.9 you'll probably want a 1.4 or 1.6 ratio LT230. With an auto you really need a 1.6 for comfortable cruising and decent acceleration but with a manual you may get away with a 1.4.

It depends on the radiator, some radiators have an oil cooler at both sides, others only have one at the drivers side but I've only seen dual cooler radiators on Discos and RRs. I'd hazard a guess that the radiator engine oil cooler and gearbox oil cooler weren't used on the same vehicle. I've always fitted autos to mine so the engine uses the radiator based cooler and the auto has an additional cooler in front of the radiator somewhere.

Another update on this, The first test version is going out imminently (the next 2 or 3 days I expect). This first test version has been targeted at MS1-Extra users primarily as that is the firmware its been tested most extensively with. If you're interested in testing/evaluating the first version of the app please make sure you sign up in the next couple of days as once it's been compiled it will only run on devices that I have the UDIDs for. it will run on iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch, the best way to have your device added to the list is to download the free "Ad Hoc Helper" app from the app store, launch the app and address the email it creates to testers@mobisquirt.org. There is also a forum newly set up on the http://mobisquirt.org web site exclusively for discussion/feedback/suggestions for the app.

I believe it can be either side (or in the middle) although if only one is fitted it's normally on the nearside but I don't think that's a legal requirement. It's normally "balanced" symmetrically with a fog light and the fog light has to be towards the offside if only one is fitted.

The FTDI chipset convertors are reckoned to be the most reliable judging from a number of topics about this on the MS forums. The easy way of telling if it's an FTDI chipset is from the names of the files in the driver. Not sure how easy the setup is though as I run a Mac with an old Keyspan adaptor.

Physically disconnect the split charge entirely from the main battery, does the charge light go out then ? Without some way of measuring voltage though you're working blind. If you are using normal batteries, do either of them have any cells that are warm/hot to the touch when it's running ? Any sign of bulging in the battery cases ? A faulty rectifier could potentially cause the battery to drain through the alternator although it's pretty unlikely, especially if the charge light goes out at higher revs. Easy way to find out is to disconnect the alternator and see if you get the same drain.

Thanks for the very generous offer Nige, I'll add that into the mix of possibilities !

Thanks for the tips, I'll definitely give JE and ACR a call. The biggest issue I have is that I can't have the car off the road for any length of time, it's the car I use for work and, although I work from home most of the time I can be required to head out for work at any time without much notice, I can cope without it for a few days, a week at the most, so I have to pay someone to do the work. Rebuilding the engine may work out more expensive than buying a ready built up short engine but it's not completely out of the question. If I get my own block reworked it'll need to be turned around in a couple of days max whereas an exchange short block can be at the garage before I drop the Rangie off which reduces the chance of something going tits up and delaying everything. I'm still hoping it will turn out to be a head gasket but better to be prepared...

I have a low mileage (for it's age) 2000 X reg 4.0V8 P38 Range Rover. in the last couple of months it's started using a bit of water and after a run the top hose is completely solid. The water seems to be blowing out of the expansion tank overflow. Given it's age and mileage and that it's still on the original block there's a strong possibility that the block will need replacing. So, the question is, does anyone have any experience, advice, recommendations etc... when it comes to sourcing a replacement short engine ? The two "obvious" solutions would be: 1) Turner Engineering remanufactured short engine with ductile (top hat) liners with a 3 year warranty on the block. 2) A "new" Coscast short engine from RPI. Both of the above come in at around £2500 once VAT and carriage are taken into account so there's really nothing to choose between the two there. I have looked at trading the Rangie in against something newer but it'll cost me the best part of £12000 to get anything that I'd consider an "upgrade" over what I have now so I'm more or less resigned to repairing this one and keeping it for a few more years yet as I only do around 5000 miles a year in it, most of that on the M62.

I do something similar to the contour gauge with a piece of thin card. wrap the card around the outside of the pipe to form a tube and tape it up. Slide the newly made cardboard tube forward to meet the tube to be welded to and trim with a pair of scissors/sharp knife until it fits snugly, slide it back up the steel tube and you can then mark the steel tube by drawing around the cardboard. A bit more faff than the contour gauge but "free" and once you've done one joint at that angle you can keep the card tube as a template for similar joins.

It's still going but I've been very short on "spare" time recently. Support for all the current versions of MS1, MS1-Extra, MS2, MS2-extra is ready for testing but I've still got some work to do in supporting older firmware versions.

Sounds normal to me, you always have to hold an auto on the brake if it's in gear, especially when it's got a V8 behind it.

There are lots of your modifications that make the vehicle less attractive to a lot of buyers. Covering the vehicle in chequer plate (what are you hiding under there ? thinks the potential buyer), silly steering wheel, strange drivers seat arrangement (bench seat !!!), winch, chassis that is "OK but needs painting/waxoiling". Body work that is scarred, doors that are corroded, rear door that has had a plate bodged over the top of the spare wheel carrier, holes and dents in the bonnet and so on. Take a look at the competition, see what you could also buy for the price you are selling at - for that money you can get a much tidier example that hasn't been hacked about. A quick look on Autotrader at private sales turned up these, for example... both of which are newer, straighter, more original and cheaper. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201123389703387 http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201120387469335 You may find someone with similar tastes/outlook that likes what you've done to the vehicle and be prepared to pay the extra for it but it will take longer to sell, depends how long you are willing to wait for the right buyer really.

Sounds like you have early lights and later panels. When the 300TDi Defender was introduced they changed the lights and electrical system from bullet connectors with trailing leads from the lamps to a plug in connector and bulb holder in the back of the lamp. The later type are a larger diameter. You'll need to get the earlier panels or convert to later style lights.

Don't know about the best as I've not tried them all... The DeltaTek I fitted to the front was so good I got one for the rear winch too. I've been told that my freespool has less friction than the GP one by someone who has a GP one and tried mine. That may just be down to installation though as all the freespools reveal any issues with your winch mount as real bearings have less tolerance than the Warn plastic bushes. It's well worth spending the time to make sure the drum and end plate are properly aligned to get the best results. I'd have no hesitation in recommending the DeltaTek mine have both worked flawlessly since fitting.

There were a few stalls there last year selling second hand stuff but mostly if not all traders. If there was an auto jumble somewhere I missed it. Most of the "show" seemed to be made up of trade stands selling overland kit and "club stands" that were just a collection of caravans packed into a small space. I may head down there on Saturday as we've got a trial at Robin Hood's Bay on Sunday, I think there's a few club members heading to the show on Saturday and then heading up to the trials site to camp on Saturday night. There was some discussion about it on club night as I think the day visitor cost has gone up substantially since last year.

The 60 metres figure came from a discussion on one of the developer forums a while ago as a guide to a typical worst case scenario where the phone had no WiFi or cell transmitters in range and had limited view of the horizon due to either phone positioning or surrounding landscape features (in a deep valley, for example, with a limited view of the sky). The built in GPS receiver has been improved with each model, the 3GS was a huge improvement over the 3G and the 4 is improved over the 3GS so you're on the right track. It's worth bearing in mind that when the device is running in "GPS only" mode it needs to see the horizon to get the best possible accuracy just like a hand held GPS unit. The "assisted" element where it's using cell transmitters and/or WiFi to supplement the GPS is used to improve the accuracy when the phone's GPS is in a sub-optimal position. That's why an iPhone can still give GPS locations inside a building where a hand held GPS will rarely work more than a few feet from a window. The GPS unit itself has the capability of being very accurate but it's not often mounted in an optimum position for GPS, after all it's a phone When the location services provide an app with the current location the app is also provided with an horizontal and vertical accuracy figure (in metres) for that location, there are a number of free apps available that display this figure so it might be worth downloading one of them form the App Store and you can see what sort of accuracy you're getting and you can reposition your phone to improve it's GPS-only performance/accuracy. That will also give you an idea of how accurate MM will be in the same situation.

Which iPhone do you have ? The iPhone's GPS capability varies with model, it does use assisted GPS so accuracy is improved when you have a phone signal but it will continue working without a signal just less accurately. I've not seen any documentation on the accuracy (or at least none I can publish) but it is generally accepted that with phone signal assistance the accuracy can be better than a normal GPS unit, however, without phone signal it can be up to 60 metres out (compared to most dedicated GPS units that are accurate to within 10 metres). For road/track use I've never found accuracy to be a problem when using mapping software be it Google Maps, NavFree (free street navigation app) or Memory Map on the iPhone.

I suspect a lot of the problems are down to weight distribution and, in particular, not enough nose weight. I tow my single axle van at or around the legal speed limit with no stabiliser with any of my three vehicles (2 Defenders and a P38) and not had any problems at all with weaving even when overtaking lorries and coaches.