Dave W

The main thing to consider when looking at a winch isolator is that you already have one installed on the winch. The winch solenoid(s) are electrically operated isolators. With that in mind you then have to decide what benefit you get from adding a second isolator into the circuit. There's no real point in adding an isolator if it involves extending the cable run, the new cable you run in for the isolator is just as vulnerable as the original cable you are trying to protect. With a series wound winch motor (the vast majority of 4x4 winches) if the solenoid(s) aren't activated there is no power to the winch motor so the only live cable is from the battery to the solenoid. In the case of a Defender with the batteries and isolator under the seat then the isolator will isolate the length of cable between the battery box and the winch solenoids. It makes sense to have some means of isolation although that's no excuse for not ensuring that the cable run to the winch solenoid isn't as physically secure and protected as possible. In the case of the Range Rover above they've used a black cable with yellow heatshrink/tape (the MSA method of identifying an earth lead btw) which loops down and appears (difficult to tell from a photo) to rest on the inner wing with very little in the way of any form of cable clips or ties. This new cable is actually longer than the cable that the switch is there to isolate and with it's length and route appears to be a far higher risk than the cable that the switch is there to protect. All I'm saying really is, before you install an additional isolator for a winch, sit down and look at the risk you are trying to minimise and make sure that risk isn't less than the risk you are adding with the positioning and cable run of your isolator. Why add 2 foot of unprotected cable to protect a 1 foot length of cable ?

If you are using Megajolt then you can't use the fuel pump to power the coils, as Roger says, the fuel pump won't get switched on by the fuel ECU until it sees an ignition signal and without the fuel pump switched on you won't see an ignition signal. The fuel pump relay thing is only of use when you're using a fuel ECU that is driven off the EDIS signal, as is the case with a Megasquirt running fuel and ignition.

The reason I asked if he had a source for the paint was that I've always bought paint from the local trade supplier. For years they've supplied paint in just about any form, mixed in the shop to match whatever colour/finish you want. They'd even put it in an aerosol for you with a decent nozzle. Last time I went in there I was told they'd had to stop selling it because new legislation has made it illegal to spray vehicles with cellulose or 2 pack that isn't water based. This was further confirmed when I contacted other suppliers in the area. They could supply water based 2 pack but you can't really use that without an oven. The only way around it at the time was to order the paint for industrial rather than automotive use but the rumour was that trading standards and the environment agency were cracking down on that avenue. If the situation hasn't changed since then then it may be better to find a source for the paint first as you might be limited by what is available.

Have you got a source for the paint ?

Take the battery back to where you bought it, they should replace it without any argument as it is caused by a manufacturing defect in the battery. It's not a good idea to keep charging it as the combination of high currents and explosive gasses can be a bit... risky....

Not sure what you mean by "wake up" - if you mean adjusting it's ride height then you're probably looking at a new compressor or you have a leak somewhere. A faulty height sensor might cause an error but won't normally stop it coming up to height or thereabouts. Often the sensor problems can be cleared simply by putting the EAS into manual and raising it to maximum, dropping it to access and cycling it like that a few times. The compressor and all the valves that control the EAS are located on the front nearside wing (LH) in a plastic box. If you get a leak or the compressor can't get the system up to pressure, compressor will, eventually, be turned off. Other than the compressor, another very common problem, particularly on diesels, is a holed exhaust silencer - the hot gas leaking out melts the pipes running across the vehicle just in front of the rear axle. Best bet is to find a good independent who can plug a diagnostic computer into it.

Ah, ofc

Shouldn't be a problem having the winch a distance from the cross member, i had this setup for a few years on mine. It may well mean that Plasma isn't an option but I get the impression that's probably not a problem for your intended use ? (I never tried running plasma under the load bed as I thought that running it over the top of exhaust systems and so on was too risky). I used an ATV hawser fairlead on my rear crossmember as it's only about 4 inches wide and, when mounted so it's lined up with the centre of the drum will help to keep the spooling tidy on the drum as it encourages self spooling. I never had any problems with spooling on the rear winch while using this setup.

Most of them were removed a few years back when the rules changed IIRC. Under current MSA regs you can't run them on any vehicle in any area of motorsport and I think that reflects FIA rules as I remember them being removed from the Paris-Dakar too. I think they were removed due to current reg C 15 • The fitment and/or use of pressure control valves to wheels and/or tyres is not permitted. Which is why my "vapourware" design has 4 short removable pipes Maybe they could be used if you argued that the valves weren't actually fitted to the wheels or tyres but I assume if works teams couldn't find a way around it us mere mortals have got no chance !

There are a couple of galleries on the Devon4x4 site... http://www.devon4x4.com/gallery/105/muddy-truckers-2007.html and http://www.devon4x4.com/gallery/106/muddy-truckers-2007.html

Spec for my ideal pressure control system... A digital gauge where I can enter the desired pressure, simple up/down buttons from the last setting you used. An air hose from the unit that clips on to the valve stem. The unit would be permanently plumbed into the on board air. The system automatically adjusts the pressure by either inflating or deflating the tyre to the entered pressure and maybe bleeps at you when it's done so you can stop chatting and move the hose to the next tyre. For my vehicle a single air line would be fine as I use flush valves so can only do one tyre at a time anyway, well, two if I use the emergency spare stem. The deluxe version of the above has 4 outlets and the desired pressure can be set for the outlets in pairs (front and rear) as I normally run more pressure in my front tyres. Optionally you could extend each outlet to the bodywork near each wheel and have 4 short quick connect hoses. This system will deflate all 4 tyres at a time if applicable and will inflate one tyre at a time choosing the one with the biggest differential first. The single version would cost me around 50 quid in parts, the 4 port version around 120 quid (the solenoid valves are expensive). Anyone fancy making some ? - it'll be months before i can even think about turning the plans into reality

Assuming it's a traditional lead-acid battery, the battery could be making the hissing sound if it has a bad cell. Other indications would be the battery getting hot and possibly the sides of the battery bowing outwards. A bad cell will overheat, boiling away the fluid (hence the hissing noise) and losing it's capacity to store charge. I've known batteries do this within days of being bought due to faulty manufacture. Check the fluid levels in the battery BUT BE CAREFUL BECAUSE IT WILL SPIT ACID AT YOU IF IT'S HOT WHEN YOU REMOVE THE VENT !

You've obviously never organised an event before.... Sadly we're not in a position to pluck a date out of the air and then tell the land owners we have to have that date, strangely the land owners have their own view as to when the land is available and when it is not. Decent land is difficult enough to get hold of as it is without ruling out a chunk of it because it's not available on the weekend you want. The reason for the delay in announcing a date was because we were still negotiating with the land owners. We have a very small window of opportunity for the event as much of the land we are using this year gets most of it's revenue from shooting. We have to run the event in the window of time between the pens being made ready and the chicks being introduced, the game keeper is the guy who pretty much decides which weekend we can run the event as it's his job on the line if our event effects the revenue from the shooting. It's an unfortunate clash but given the alternative - not running an MT in 2009, I'd rather we clashed dates than not run at all. AWDC know there is a clash of dates but haven't felt it necessary/possible to move their event either. They did manage to avoid a clash with an event in Germany somewhere that one of the organisers wanted to attend so maybe there is still room on their part. AFAIK they haven't announced a venue yet either, maybe they will find the venue they want isn't available that weekend and have to move... imagine if that happened after we cancelled MT to avoid them ! Sadly, our hands are pretty much tied in this case.

Sounds like all that can be expressed in a single word... <thick Yorkshire accent mode>Bugger !</thick Yorkshire accent mode>

It's possible they've withdrawn it, I've not seen it on the shelf here for over a year, Ive not got any motors that use it at the moment so haven't asked. On the source of ticking, lots of possible suggestions above, does sound like a tappet if it goes away when you rev so could be oil related or it could simply be the injectors.

A cheaper pressure switch is available here.... http://www.mattsavage.com/acatalog/copy_of...r_Fittings.html Nice source for the push in connectors and fittings, hadn't thought of robotics stores.

I'd be tempted to pop the bottom hose off and drain it until you get some antifreeze in it, the last time I took that risk it cost me a very nice 5 bearing 2.25 engine in my Series III. The block developed a 6 inch crack in it I'd only put some water in it to test it ran OK and left it overnight... Besides, if you don't drain it now you'll not sleep tonight

Valvoline do a synthetic 20/50 if it's of any help, as do Lucas oils if there's a distributor in your area. I normally use mineral or semi for the first oil change after an overhaul as synthetic can be a bit too efficient and stop the engine bedding in during the "running in" period. After the running in period go for a full synthetic.

Same here I think, that was on the "punches against the clock" section that Brian H was running IIRC ?

You should really try and stick with 20/50 in RV8s, the oil pumps aren't really designed to cope with thinner oil than that although, to be fair, many people do run them on 15w40. IMV it's worth spending the extra time and effort to get hold of 20/50. Having said that, its probably nothing to do with the oil but it's an easy thing to try and if you haven't changed the oil since the rebuild it's overdue an oil change anyway.

Mine are 28 years old now, it does help though that with constant competition use pretty much everything on my motor gets cleaned and/or stripped down fairly regularly. It's also an auto so pretty heavy on the brakes so I'll normally put a set of pads in every 6 months, especially after a trip to Ireland where they have special "brake grinding mud" that normally sees me changing pads at the ferry terminal on the way home

I assume, as a driving god, Jim walked away from that one ?

I seem to always end up changing pads at the side of the road somewhere either during or after a competition. I use a large (24mm) ring spanner to push the pistons back one at a time. The curved edge of the ring sits nicely into the hollow in the centre of the pistons and you just lever against the disk.

When was the last time you checked your antifreeze ?

I;m sure an adaptor could be made but I've not seen one advertised, the biggest problem you will face is that everything under the P38 is pretty tight for room so the extra length of the gearbox + adaptor + transfer box may well cause a problem. If you look under your P38 as it stands and visualise the transfer box shifting back 5-6 inches you'll get an idea of the room required. I suspect the fuel tank will cause you a problem from memory but I've not looked under a P38 with a view to converting one. Keeping the existing electronics happy is going to be the biggest problem whichever way you went as all the ECUs "talk" to each other. Fitting an LS1 and possibly a matching transmission may well be the easy bit, stopping the dash lighting up like a christmas tree OTOH... What I don't know is just how integrated the ECUs really are. If you disconnected the engine and gearbox ECUs from the rest of the vehicle would it stop the windows opening etc...