FridgeFreezer

On a 200TDi I think a catalytic converter is unlikely to be present?

That's glorious 😍 Although 50kg of filament * ~20 quid a kilo = well, still the cheapest Merlin you'd ever buy I guess 🤔 Wonder if he's shared the files, a 1/10th scale version would be a hell of a desk ornament

Looks like fun but I made the mistake of imagining how much of a PITFA it would be once you'd been out once and plastered it with mud and all the heims got slack...

There's a pretty good explanation here: http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Basic_Configuration_Manual.htm#desvr The simple version is if you swap + and - on the VR the "missing tooth" actually creates two "missing teeth" in the signal and confuses the ECU's timing: The longer explanation is the ECU is looking for a "zero crossing" in the signal going in one direction - for example positive to negative - which yes, you can change inside the ECU or by swapping the sensor wires, if you get them the wrong way round you get two crossings about 1.5 teeth apart which looks to the ECU like it got one less regular tooth on the wheel and then the missing tooth happening twice, so now it doesn't know where TDC is anymore. BTW for those that don't have a picoscope or similar, there are plenty of very cheap "mini-DSO" kits on eBay from China that are more than good enough for diagnosing stuff like this on a car and cost from about £10 up. This one's a whole £28: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296020811621

Right, I reckon we can easily muster 4-6 of our committee / marshal team including subbing Miketomcat as he's always out marshalling for us. Only wrinkle is timing - we've got an event on the 24th of March and Newbury sortout on the 7th April, so those are out for most of us.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-cooling-heating/heating-system/heater-controls_52983 Doesn't look like it's sold separately but it's an easy enough shape to bang into a random piece of metal if you need to.

Go and talk to Matt at Longlife in Basingstoke (Fast Fit service centre) if you want a nice stainless one made to your spec. https://www.fastfitservicecentre.com/

It requires using the command line but there is nothing on earth that ffmpeg can't re-code into anything else.

Supposed to be a captive nut isn't it? https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-series-3-chassis-body/series-3-doors/body-hinges-and-straps-front-door_420

Well we don't need to ask which one is the old one

The PS10 is more like a modernised 109 (leaf springs) with an Iveco van engine, the body looks very similar but I believe as Mike says parts of it are glass fibre and I'm sure there will be a lot of detail differences, the axles are similar but with some santana-specific parts. Wikipedia says santana fitted "heavier duty axles" and I know KAM used to sell them some components but no idea how far removed they are from stock LR axles. For overlanding it could be a bit of a unicorn in terms of parts availability, I'd expect the shared Land Rover or Iveco parts to be available but other stuff could be really hard to find. Santana always used whatever parts were available locally so you may find a lot of little bits like electrics and other ancillary parts are from 1990's van / coach / bus / HGVs that were found around Spain at the time.

Unless you make a mess of the wiring fuel injection & electronic ignition is more reliable and accurate. You size the injector(s) to suit the power output, for a 2.5 petrol you could probably use almost any injectors from a modern 4-cylinder car as they all make more power than the 2.5, so whatever is available locally and looks easy to fit. Or 4 injectors from a Rover V8 would also get you pretty close. There are also sometimes throttle bodies with injectors built in that replace a carb - common for the larger 4 barrel carbs you get on American V8's but I'm sure I've seen them for smaller single-barrel carbs too, again TBI was used on a lot of small cars in the 90's - might be easier to bolt on to your existing manifold. Of course we don't know your skills or what access to tools / fabrication you have, modifying an inlet manifold to fit fuel injectors could be easy or really hard for you.

If it's just a thermocouple they're all over eBay for no money.

Dave, I hadn't replied yet but I will run this by our committee as we may be able to get a few more to come along and I'm sure the club would cover expenses. How many more would you need to make it a proper day? Edit to add: we can probably car-pool too to save a few people fuel money, and can drag @miketomcat and probably @PhillyWoo along for the ride...

I'd agree - 1/8" NPT is a super common thread for sensors and fittings, not hard to find a tap or die even here in metric land a lot of tap kits come with one by default.

TBH having to do a few weld repairs every decade or so is not the end of the world, if you give it a good dousing in cavity wax that could easily stretch out to every 20 years which is not too onerous! We did very minimal repairs to my bulkhead when we put the truck together in (yikes) 2006 and it's starting to show a few rust spots now, I can live with that sort of rate.

I think you get about the same whatever you fit - the MPG is largely decided by your right foot, and the 4.6 gives you the most torque which is what you need to move a 2-ton brick about the place. Certainly I can get the same or better MPG from the 4.6 as I ever did from the 3.5, and I sure as hell have a more relaxed drive and get there faster

I'm sure they've lovely but for the price of the conversion I can run my V8 for years...

4.6 - there's no substitute for displacement especially if you've got a 110.

If you just want to save a bit of fuel, mad ideas like supercharging are not what you need - you should be doing as honitonhobbit and td5tov8110 suggest - just do the basics and maybe make minor improvements like servicing & adjusting everything, getting the carb & ignition set up properly (or fitting upgraded versions), and there are improved cylinder heads available for the 2.5 such as the gasflowed performance one Turners sell: https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/cylinder-head-lfhp-225-25-petrol-metric-cou-exchange-c2x28348429 If you are not carrying heavy loads you *could* look at the gearing (even just tyre size) but the 2.5 does not have a lot of power to spare so taller gearing may not work out.

I think we already had this discussion a while ago... the 2.25 does have some scope for improvements as they were very under-tuned from the factory but adding turbos or superchargers is not a very practical idea, it's a bit like strapping rockets to a horse to make it go faster. A 110 will accept any of the Rover V8's although you'll need the right gearbox and modify the wiring & cooling system etc. (but mostly using standard Defender V8 parts) but you can get ~2x the power of the 2.5 by just dropping a 4.0 or 4.6 in there, and with fuel injection it will not use any more fuel than the old 2.5 did unless you drive it like an idiot. Of course anything is possible - you *can* stick a turbo or supercharger on anything, just like you can put any engine into any car if you're willing to pay. You need to define what you're actually trying to achieve here - a 2-ton brick is never going to get fantastic MPG or be super fast. If you want much better MPG fit a turbo diesel engine. If you want to go everywhere at 100mph fit an LSx V8. But you won't achieve both at the same time.

There weren't a lot of EFI vehicles around when the system was designed. Blame Bosch.

These days it's far easier to find a crusty D2 or P38 with 4.0 / 4.6 than a classic Range Rover or D1 with a 3.9 in it. And the later blocks have numerous improvements like larger journals, cross-bolted mains, better oil pump, single serp belt, and composite head gaskets. The 4.0 is basically the best version of the 3.9. @Mediamab I understand the dilemma about retaining originality but you can (if you're reasonably careful) drop a 4.6 + R380 into your truck with zero permanent modifications, it's just some wiring & plumbing and maybe a swap of the transmission tunnel moulding. The original 3.5 from our 127 is under a tarp at the back of the lock-up should we ever want to revert it to standard or sell it to a collector who values originality.

Swapped wires would cause a false "double-gap" situation yes. You shouldn't need to mess with the VR settings, I'd suggest trying to start from the defaults / whatever Nige uses by default and not get too far into the weeds from there as there's 100 ways to confuse the issue with this stuff.

If you live somewhere sunny with a beach it would definitely work in the summer season, probably not so much in rainy Basingstoke.