FridgeFreezer

Feel free, as you can tell I am not a jedi master at web / CSS I run out of patience very quickly with all that stuff.

Exhaust manifolds to head you can get 3/8 UNC to 3/8 UNF studs with brass UNF nuts, much nicer. If it was rebuilt I'm guessing they didn't use nice new bolts all round then?

Sump gasket is black goo - there's a specific loctite product for it I think @Hybrid_From_Hell knows the number, or most likely the black sealant sold in most motor factors will be very close. I would not bother with stainless into aluminium, bolts are 5/16 UNC according to the parts book: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/v8-petrol-carburetter/sump_53382 The engine just wants any decent quality 20W50, it's a very simple old hector.

Here's an MS1-extra-029v s19 file with the standard Rover V8 temperature sender + AT1010 intake air temp sensor as supplied by Nige: https://fuddymuckers.co.uk/files/ms/msns-extra_029V_RV8.s19

Not that I've been bored at work but I made an online calculator thing that lets you work out likely panel & battery specs / performance: https://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/solarcalc.html Something like this: Have a play and let me know!

I'm already planning on gridfinity-ing everything in the shed & garage just takes a while to print and I may need a few reels of filament... For those unaware:

Are you saying TunerStudio would not start up (which would just be a laptop / software problem) or that tunerStudio couldn't connect? The battery voltage needs to be healthy to flash the firmware, the bootloader usually warns you about this though. It's possible you've got an error in the flashed firmware, it happens on MS1 from time to time and usually a re-flash (so short the BOOT pins together, power cycle the unit, run the bootloader to upload firmware). Don't forget to remove the boot jumper afterwards although MS-Extra doesn't really care about it. It's a long while since I did it but I believe Easytherm modifies the firmware (.s19) file you need to download as well as giving you matching .ini files to copy to Megatune / TunerStudio. I will dig out my firmware file later and upload it. The port checker is doing 2 things; seeing it can open COM3 (does the port exist on the computer) and then seeing if it gets a response from an ECU on that port, which it won't if the ECU is The good news it you haven't ruined your ECU, at worst you would just need to swap the CPU chip which is easy, I've got a few spares knocking around the place.

Unless you're racing, off-road tends to involve a lot of stopping or pausing to read the terrain and contemplate the next move, the application I was envisaging is when you've ended up in something at an odd angle and are paused, contemplating your next move... it's not always super intuitive if you're at a weird angle with a wheel in the air and staring at the sky to know if you're near the limit or some way off it, and I see no harm in having a little gauge that helps give you that information. If you don't want an inclinometer or GPS speedo that's up to you, I don't see the point in posting on a thread about where to buy them / options available just to tell everyone that you don't like them because you're such a grizzled off-road captain that you have no use for them.

Per the title really, after being a long time without access to a 3D printer I treated myself to a Prusa Mk4 - I've already got a long list of bits and bobs that I want to print but wondering if folks here have any good tips or things they've printed for the vehicle or around the workshop?

I suspect your mobile has the same or very similar cheap MEMS 9-axis accelerometer chip inside it. Although Chinese tat with blue LEDs is the last thing I'd want on my dashboard, I can see the utility of this - a GPS speedo is not a bad thing to have especially if you're switching between tyre sizes on the regular, and when you find yourself in a sticky situation off-road it can be useful to know how far over you have ended up so you can make a more informed decision about whether to press on forward or back out carefully, I guess not everyone can be such as master off-road helmsmith as yourself

How much accuracy do you need out of any of these things? Does it matter if your alternator is charging at 14.39 or 14.41v - it's the first two digits that tell you it's charging or not. Likewise the angle - does it matter if you're at 44 or 45 degrees? What you need to know is roughly how close you are to the limit as side-slopes usually feel much worse than they are. And do you think any of your dashboard instruments (or their senders) are any more accurate than +/-10% or worse?

@Nonimouse can you ping me details etc. as I think Shires would send a few of our marshals your way for that if we can.

My assumption is that a lot of this stuff works well in very specific scenarios or specific events, and then gets spread far & wide because it's new and shiny. Meanwhile there's no money to be made or internet points to be scored for making a really good quality regular old shackle or snatch block. Off-road (usually recovering others) my order is: Gloves go on as I'm getting out of the car, sturdy tow rope lives in the boot ready to be hooked right on, other stuff is under the rear seat or in the rear cubby although I mean to get round to some nicer storage for some of it. If the tow rope doesn't do it it's over to someone with a winch, usually @miketomcat

You're not away from oxidation then? I have a little pot of flux paste as Steve says, which sometimes works, although TBH just crimping a connector on instead would usually be my choice in that situation - then cover it with glue-lined heat shrink.

If a Rover V8 fits an LS will. Everything else on the vehicle will immediately need upgrading or replacing though, so it begs the question why you'd bother starting with a Series? Also an LS in a Land Rover is, like, sooooo 2009 darling...

Welcome! With a Series YOU are going to be the mechanic a lot of the time - luckily it's all very simple! If you haven't already found it the green bible gives you nearly everything you need: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/ And the parts book gives you everything else: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/ Although the owners manual might also give you some tips: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/ All courtesy of our very own @Retroanaconda Series 2 will have some detail differences from SIII but only very minor ones. A half decent imperial socket/ratchet set, a good lump hammer, a grease gun and a stout bottle jack & axle stands you'll be away.

I suspect a trawl through eBay or Aliexpress would turn one up almost identical but with a much lower price.

A dip in the sandblaster it'll look like it just came out of the foundry! Very nice work indeed.

No - if you have flooding that's a problem with the carb that needs fixing, not bodging round by messing with other stuff. The system doesn't need a regulator - what would it be regulating??? The carb float sets the level and everything else returns to the tank, pumping more or less fuel in the top doesn't change that. @Mediamab - honestly just stick with the stock pump & tank, it makes life so much easier and there's zero benefit in fitting anything else. Avoid Britpart, but that doesn't mean you have to buy genuine.

100W panel would be waaaay overkill, I'd say any of the small panels that claim to be ~25-50W (about A4-A2 paper size) would be more then enough for the average Defender unless you're got some parasitic drain or something. My Mini seemed pretty happy with a very carp ~5W panel (~30cm x 10cm ish) just keeping it topped off when last stored, the 127 has nothing at all (battery cutoff on the house battery, main one untouched) and stands for months and months and has always started first time. Something hungry like a D3/4 or modern RR might want an amp or so and push you into 50-100W territory if you were being REALLY belt & braces, I guess the setup is relatively inexpensive Vs the faffing about it saves and the potential to damage a battery by having it go flat.

As Mike says, soft shackles etc. are nice if you're removing potential flying lumps of metal from a setup but not if you're trying to attach something securely to a less-than-great recovery point where there's sharp edges or nasty angles etc. I'm undecided on the donut snatch block things, they seem like a decent idea but as others have said it's possible to imagine them imparting unwelcome heat into a synthetic line... I've not heard of any failures here or elsewhere so perhaps a non-issue especially in typical British off-roading weather?

What they said - it's a spring-loaded brass pin that you need to push in, you may be able to do it by inserting something in the hole and then gripping with pliers to give it a good push - carefully to avoid damaging the knob of course!

https://hackaday.com/tag/creating-a-pcb-in-everything/ ^ that walks you through some of it, a lot of the rest is just join-the-dots if you're using modules or copying example circuits. There's a lot of youtubers sponsored by JLCPCB or PCBWay who've done videos on how to get boards made etc. GreatScott is pretty good for general learning.

These days for hobby stuff there's a TON of ready-made modules on eBay and the like, although with anything critical I'd de-rate all the claims by about 50% in terms of current / safe voltage / etc. especially where mains voltage meets Chinese manufacturing and/or lithium batteries. A lot of the rest of it is taking example circuits from datasheets or appnotes for particular devices and joining them together like lego blocks to arrive at the system you want. Parts availability is just a constant PITA these days and don't get me started on the search/filter functions on RS/Farnell/etc. On the plus side it's never been easier or cheaper to throw a board together in KiCAD (free) using the JLCPCB parts library and get it made & soldered together & posted to you by JLC for peanuts.

I'm so used to those being in the truck I forgot to list them