FridgeFreezer

Unless you do some stupid maneuver that causes it to roll over I'd say it's fairly unlikely on normal roads. For reference quite a few other things fold up like that if you put them on the roof, it's usually if there's a separate chassis so the bodywork doesn't have to take any load. I've seen more than one flat SJ at a site day after a small roll.

Oh dear, the boy's got it bad welcome to the fold

Surely with a locked/b*ggered VC and no front shafts 100% of the power is going to go to the rear? Just wondering if the IRD would spit its dummy or be OK with it.

It's one way of doing it, but a lot of it is not how I'd do it and not how others have done it. A RRC or Disco is almost identical as a base.

Is it possible to fix it so it's RWD not 4WD? I know people take the rear prop off when the IRD goes to avoid buying a new one, I'd prefer RWD to FWD though just for the giggle

What Grant said - joining a good club will pay dividends. Having a poke round the forums here will give you insights into ownership - what goes wrong, how to fix it and stuff you can tweak. An older rebuilt vehicle with a galvanised chassis and a good bulkhead could be a better bet than just buying the newest you can afford, condition is more important than mileage. A truck covered in accessories is never worth the sum of its parts so don't fall for anyone who tries to make out that a £2k vehicle with £3k worth of extras is worth more than about £3000, and that's if it's tastefully done, well-fitted and quality stuff that you actually want. Chequerplate is worth precisely nothing and goes down in value the more of it there is plastered over the thing, especially when it's used to hide crusty panels, dents, and rusty bits of chassis. As for what to look for: - Chassis rust, have a damn good poke and be suspicious of stuff caked with waxoyl/black sealant, it should ring true not rattle or thunk (or fall apart) when tapped with a knocking stick. - Bulkhead rust, see above but be on the lookout for filler and stuff hiding behind hinges/panels and bubbling out. Everything else is varying degrees of nuts and bolts. If it's a 200/300 TDi check it's good as a new one is money. Although most things can be fixed, TDi heads can still get expensive. A few oil leaks are usual but nothing should be dripping wet or need constant topping up. The power steering box will always leak from the bottom seal, a little moist patch is probably to be expected, more than that and expect to have to fork out for a new box at ~£200. Door frames and body cappings can rust, doors are money (£250 pair) and can get beyond repair without showing it past the plastic trim. Cappings are a fiddle to replace but not rocket science and early galvanised ones stop the problem. Gearbox should shift nicely and not be noisy. Transfer box (hi/low & difflock lever) may be stiff to change if it's not been used off-road, they are pretty solid. Only weak spot is input gear which will manifest itself as a clonk on taking up drive and going from forward to reverse. Assuming the gearbox splines aren't too worn it's £50 for a cross-drilled input gear and ten minutes crawling round underneath to change it.

Aah, K, for some reason I thought you had a Disco.

Bang on, just phoned them, stock is coming in next week and they're about £130 for a pair. Pricey but quite tempting since the screen needs replacing anyway. For those who don't click links, Uroglas are on 01527 577477.

Al - why not start a welding shop, you seem to be accumulating welders anyway so may as well make some money

Captive nuts in the rear tub? All mine are M8x20 nut & bolt.

As Al points out, you'd still need the mother of all electricity supplies - if it draws 64A from 3 phases it'll probably need 3x that, which pretty much rules out any domestic supply. If it involves re-winding the main transformer (which at a guess it does) then going from 415V to 230V you will double the current and you're then looking at silly things like a 400A supply at 230v, at which point the electric company slap you with a fish and tell you to stop being silly and install 3-phase

For full on luxury buy a plug-in timer for it too so you don't have to remember to switch it on. Just remember to unplug it before driving off!

6kW? Is that using engine coolant, fuel burner, or does it plug into the cigarette lighter socket to draw the 400+ amps required to kick out 6kW of heat from electricity alone?

Unless it's for threaded bits on engine/gearbox/axle that can't be changed then just use metric.

What he said ^^^ looking at pics from my build you may be able to do it by lifting the tub up a bit rather than actually removing it but you may encounter a cross-member in the way or such like depending on your vehicle. I riveted mine on where the rivet holes were still good, and used a liberal bead of Sikaflex to make up for the rivets that were missing.

If it was that easy everyone and their dog would have done this, the manufacturers would've incorporated it into the machinery and almost no-one would buy 3-phase supply from the electric company. Sorry Rog, it's clearly b*ll*cks.

There are a couple of Butters AMT 1800's new on eBay for £400, my experience with Butters as a company has been excellent. Also look for Miller, Cebora, Portamig, Murex, Esab - all seem to be nailed together pretty well give or take the inevitable march of the accountants on newer models. Also this gives some background on why industrial sets weld "nicer" than hobby sets due to an extra LC circuit (inductance/capacitance) in the output.

Cheers David, I called them but they're not answering so will try again later and report back with a price.

Shouldn't be hard to trace, just fiddly to get to - there'll be a feed from the sidelight switch position to the bulbs, and a ground. One or the other will go via the dimmer.

You could install a higher flow pump, I think the Rover one is pretty poor compared to most. Mine is a ZF pump from a BMW.

Assuming I translated that correctly, they're +2". Yours being a Disco, if memory serves, which means your bodywork is wider anyway and you'll want RR/Disco arches not Defender ones.

Have you uprated the axle internals at all? That's quite an aggressive tyre choice for standard parts. Not that it's not doable, just may not prove reliable if the red mist comes down...

I think you need a flyer or need to know someone with a flyer, however the dates on mine are 6th and 13th of Jan.

It's only 'cos there's an airbox where the heater should be, I'm not going soft yet!

Don't let Ash spot you calling his Bowler a Tomcat It's true Simex love sand though, going down!