FridgeFreezer

I've found the creepy crawlers to be fine in mud, although I've not had the chance to do a side-by-side comparison with Simex or anything else for that matter. I've only been stuck once since I fitted them and that was in about 4' of water

Ask Moglite about swapping a 4.7:1 diff into a coiler salisbury, he's done it at least twice As for strength, I think a few guys on here run uprated 4.7:1 diffs (Tonk springs to mind) although I've no idea which bits they're using.

Last year we all had Zetagi B150 amps as they're reasonably priced and have a good kick, they do a 300W one too but TBH once you're in the forest no-one's going to hear you after a few miles anyway. We got all our gear from Nevada as they are a good bunch and they're only 15 minutes from my house Hope to see you there, if you've been chatting to Jez you should be getting all the right info anyway. Apart from the bit about it being a really good idea to enter Ladoga

If the starter turns fast when you jump 12v to the starter terminal but slowly when you jump to the starter-side solenoid terminal the only thing in between is a length of cable isn't it? I'd say you have your #1 suspect. The symptoms are strange, could the cable have rubbed on something and be short-circuiting to a bit of bodywork or chassis?

All opinions of ACR and Turners I've ever heard have been positive, however I think Mark has hit the nail on the head, by the time you've paid someone to breathe on a 2.25 you could've bought a V8 and conversion and achieved the same, if not slightly better, result. Of course a V8 conversion isn't bolt-in whereas a tweaked 2.25 is, it's swings and roundabouts as ever. No-one I'm aware of has yet done EFI + distributorless ignition on a warmed up 2.25 and I think that could be an interesting combination as programmable fuel & sparks can overcome some of the driveability issues with fruity engines.

A bit more detail would be handy: Petrol, diesel? Got a snorkel? If so, is it sealed? Checked your air filter for water? Squealing coming from anywhere in particular - engine belts, clutch, a wheel, a bearing, prop/UJ, everywhere? Judder from transmission, engine? Wading plugs in / out / not present?

I'm with Luke on this - the tools they throw in with those cabinets are often poor quality even in the more expensive deals, the really cheap ones are likely to be made of chocolate and will be less use than having no tools at all as they will b*gger things up, break, and generally make things harder. Buy decent quality - Halfords Professional are very good and have a lifetime warranty I believe. Laser and Teng also seem to do some nice stuff for sensible money. Draper and Sealey can be good but they also sell some really cheap tat so beware. If you already have imperial sockets and a ratchet all you need are some metric sockets on a rail and you're covered. Go for the wall-drive 6-point ones. I do as Luke does - if a job needs a certain tool I'll buy it. Sometimes that can be a bit pricey but I have yet to spend more on a tool than it would've cost me to pay someone to do the job. I think the biggest purchase was an 18v sabre saw to remove a pair of 109 tub sides rather than pay £100 per side from Paddocks and that has paid for itself many times over since. Likewise look for deals - I needed a bearing puller for a job and spent a little extra to get a set of four from tiny to huge that were on special offer.

CANbus is an industrial standard, there's loads of info out there and the bits are readily available from the likes of RS, you may be able to make your PC talk to your car without too much faffing about. I have no idea about MOST and how feasible that is to interfere with, although I do have an arc-fusion fibre-optic splicer should the need arise

There are tube and tubeless versions, the part numbers are different and the word "TUBELESS" or "TUBE TYPE" should be cast into the rim like the writing in your photo.

Aaah, thought you were about to buy vital engine bits off eBlag I would ask if you have any good stuff for sale but I'm so skint it's not funny

The smart money says move the ECU above water, no matter how well you seal the ECU or seatbox it's a Land Rover, water is going to come in somewhere and it's only some wire to extend it. Mine is on the ceiling If you do get water in the ECU, shut it off & disconnect power ASAP, wash it out with clean water and leave to dry thoroughly before reconnecting. If any tracks have corroded or grown green fluff, some PCB cleaner and a rub with a toothbrush may save it although if it's bad it may be scrap. I did see one build where they converted the throttle pedal to cable operation and ran the cable to the original potentiometer inside a sealed box raised above water level.

eBay?

Whatever it is you need to be logged in to see it - suggest you right-click on the pic, save it as a file then upload it as an attachment so we can see it.

Noooooooo anything but f***ing bronze/dark/coniston/whatever it's called this week green! Metallic sounds nice until you need to touch it up later or spray a new panel to match, then it's a nightmare.

The MOT does not check props, bearings, or VCU It only checks the vehicle is safe for use on the road, you could get an MOT and then your engine explodes and the prop falls off. They only check what's on their list and beyond oil leaks and possibly split gaiters they will not look at the 4WD system. A 1998 should be well under your budget, depending on the engine.

All this is over my head a little but I'm using a stock 4.6 block with 3.9 heads and the composite head gaskets, on paper it'll have lost some compression but I can't say I've noticed it plus it runs happily on Russian petrol. If I had spare cash I'd get the heads skimmed and the block THL'd. I did stick a slightly fruity cam in it, duplex chain and ARP head studs when it was built. BTW you can buy two different ARP head stud kits, one for older engines and one for 4.0/4.6 which doesn't have the outer row of bolts and is therefore cheaper. While you're on the phone to Real Steel, their rubber rocker cover gaskets are good. All this said, if I thought I was gonna have to spend more than £1500 rebuilding a Rover V8 I'd be on eBay looking at LS1's

Isn't this the same organisation as the land rover world record queue procession?

I'm sure some will find this useful: B3ta Northern mapping Or maybe not

So can I get some more anti-lobster racing stickers or what?

That's the last time you'll be allowed in that garden centre young man!

Sound almost like a Series one.

Dan - the Camel will be correct for a Defender, but Bertha isn't a Defender. I would get all the bits and check how it all goes together, you don't want to build it to find it'd be far easier to have the bulkhead 2" further back / forward

You might want to check out Frost Electroplating supplies, you can do all sorts with their kits although I have never tried one myself. I have bought other things from them though, and they are generally good.

Given LR engineering tolerances I'd wait till you've got a bulkhead, then bolt the outriggers to it, line it up, and weld it on in the right place. Measuring one person's bulkhead doesn't necessarily mean yours will fit right... Also it will be a datum for the rest of the bodywork so you probably at least want front end, floor & seatbox so you can gauge where it needs to go.

If you read the suspension bits in the Technical Archive and pick your parts carefully you can get great results without spending lots of money.