FridgeFreezer

Can you trim the bottom off the new bullbar to expose the rings?

Is that a squirty silicone job or buying a new seal job?

I'll second (third, fourth) M10x1.

EDIS does make sodding huge sparks, for added fun try turning multi-spark on under 1200rpm. I've no idea if it's better or not, but it's something to play with.

Cheers Dan, I don't think I've got a whole weekend free at any point in the next 6 months so looks like it'll be off to the garage to let the grease monkeys do it. Rather just have it back & working than faff about.

Rog - #1 check would be that the table switching is still working OK as I got half way through removing the SnS mods from your ECU and realised you also had table switching wired up so had to put a couple of wires back again. I did it as per the info I have to hand and back onto SPR1 on the connector but you might like to double-check that's working before fiddling about with other stuff too much!

Yes Knowing more details of what you're doing would be helpful as the situation/application dictates what's practical.

If you lose drive like that, first stop is engage centre difflock and see if it'll drive. You can run round with centre difflock engaged (assuming you identify the fault as something non-serious) without causing damage - just be a bit careful as all the drive (in this case) would be going through the front axle.

Well I thought I'd add to this sadly unanswered post because it seems my clutch / release bearing has died at least that's what I hope it is It did have the decency to wait until we got home from christmas shoppin' - started making a nasty rattling noise with the clutch down as I came off the motorway, then as I pulled up by my house it made a really bad clunk/bang noise and some foul smelling smoke came out I decided that was probably a good time to turn it off. Mine is the 1800 petrol, 1998 vintage. I've seen clutch kits for ~£80-100, paddocks seem to claim a genuine kit for £79 although after seeing stories on this site about some clutch manufacturers I think I'd want a Borg & Beck / AP one if one exists. So - same question really: Is it a fairly easy job to do or what? If it's straightforward I might have a crack at it myself, if not it's going to the garage as I have dad's RR to try to scrape through an MOT before the 30th taking up my garden. If it's a garage job, can anyone tell me a reasonable price (or number of hours) for getting it done?

Cold, idling in neutral is the correct way to check it IIRC. Yes you can do an electrical test on the sensor - you've just done it by unplugging the wire if the light had stayed on I would suspect wiring (or a sensor that defaults to closed-contacts). Anyway, I think we can safely say the sensor is dead. Part number is: prc3139 to April 1990 / prc8473 onwards

Just bought one, will give me an extra excuse to build a shed to hang it in

I could post hundreds from 2007, it's been a tad busy but will try to keep it short & sweet! January - A lot of classic restoring to do: February - Two unfinished portal trucks, both booked on a ferry to Finland in 3 months: Day of departure - finished with plenty of time to spare So - first time building a truck, first time driving the 109 (excluding the drive to the MOT station), first time driving abroad, first time going to Finland, first time going to Russia... and we came home in one piece ...And then got on a coach and went to Glastonbury to get rained on and covered in sh*te: First proper off-road outing of the 109 at 7S: Followed by tyres & arches and a few finishing tweaks leading to serious fun at Bunny Lane: Still loads to do - isn't there always?

You could pick a new tach signal off one of the alternator windings, you could us the TACH OUT of the MS, I wouldn't use the EDIS signals as it may affect the signal. I'm not 100% sure if alternator-type tachos work from things like coil signals.

Also despite the poster's defence of using reverse gear to recover because "sometimes it's lower", I've been told reverse gear is often weaker than the rest due to having an extra gear in the train to reverse rotation.

Joining kinetics to anything is generally not good, joining with a shackle is double stupid.

On the "bog brush" oil coolers the temperature switch is on the passenger side I think, it's either duff or the wiring's wonky/damaged. You'll need to remove the grille and then get a big spanner onto it - careful what you lever against when undoing it, you don't want to damage the cooler.

Just 'cos you've changed the stat don't assume it will work - I did this and the new one stuck too there was no bleed-by hole in the stat body so it formed a small airlock and then refused to open, despite the fact that if you boiled the stat in a pan of water (a common check) it would open fine.

Interesting, bet it doesn't like vibration though I've been hoping they'll do those halogen-replacement LED bulbs in 12v but they all seem to be 230v versions, wonder what they'd do with 12v and if they can be made to work?

It's just slackening a bolt and rotating the distributor body slightly. You point the timing light at the crank, it flashes when cylinder 1 fires, and the flash illuminates the mark on the crank pulley which shows you what the timing is. You then twist the dizzy until it's correct and re-tighten it. There's also dwell (points gap) which you can do with a feeler gauge or eyeball depending on your preference. None of it is rocket science, if it was we could ask Al anyway

We need a photo of that!

It's true though - they like to pick on "4x4's" mainly because they are the most easily identified (even if wrongly identified) sources of pollution, I don't think I've seen groups for "we hate cars capable of more than 100mph", "we hate cars with more than 100bhp/ton", "we hate people who drive around with the air-con on full blast in summer", "we hate people who shop out of town", "we hate people who fly to conferences on the environment", etc.

If it's never been in low box for the first 100,000 miles of it's life the linkage is going to be a bit stiff. Dad's RR was like that, as was mine. IIRC it's possible the internals have a slight wear pattern on the gear that makes engaging low tricky (I think this has been posted before or I could be talking arse?)

Without wanting to give other manufacturers ideas, a burst of full -ve voltage is not the same as controlled regenerative braking. Then again. if the gearset is badly designed so it f***s the internals up under braking there's not much you can do about that. Mind you, most winch manufacturers seem to have little or no grasp of electronics anyway

Facebook Group: I Hate Land Rover/Range Rover Drivers As you can see, they took the mature approach of deleting posts they didn't like and kicking me off the group

Whatever you do you'll have to set the timing at some point, you can't just bolt a dizzy in and turn the key (unless you're a jammy git). If you're skint, perhaps a local forummer could lend you a timing light, or if you're not skint you could buy one - they turn up on ebay / car boot etc. as most modern cars are distributorless and the timing is set by the ECU. It's the way forward I tells thee The points & amp approach is a good compromise - the amp takes almost all of the electrical load off the points, so there should be no arcing (which is what wears them out) and hence it should be much more stable and need far less maintenance. I wouldn't spend £50 on a dizzy when you could go MJ'n'EDIS for £100 ish.