FridgeFreezer

I thought I'd start a new topic since my last shed plan was while the 109 was in build and I ended up taking people's (very wise) advice and just living with being cold and wet and finishing the vehicle. Anyway, now it's done and I want somewhere warm and dry for it to live. It already stands on a concrete slab that was handily there when I moved in. Planning permission has been negotiated locally (don't ask) so all I need now is a design. Well, I've got a design but not being in the construction trade and having lost my big book of DIY for dummies I thought I'd post it up here to get a sanity check. Construction is intended to be steel box of 50x50 although I may have found a source of some surplus 40x40 which I'm hoping will save money and be up to the job. I'm reluctant to use timber as it seems to resist being welded together Cladding will be sheets of ply or similar, hence why as much as possible has been done in 1200x2400 sizes or multiples thereof. I may add some cosmetical stuff on the outside to keep the neighbours happy. Roofing I'm still not 100% sure on, corrugated roof stuff (there seems to be a selection of stuffs from steel to polycarb) is slightly in the lead on price. And so to the plans, first up - the layout of my garden: The guy with the garage often parks his car in front of it which means a door that swings out, or up, could find itself blocked. Since I have acquired the parts necessary to make a sliding door, that's the plan. So, the actual garage plan itself: Just to explain the margin doodlings, the existing concrete slab is 26' by 12'9 and the 109 is 8' high. Converting to metric and rounding a few things gave me the plan to make it 3m high on the "high" side, sloping to a standard-panel 2.4m high on the garden side, 7.6m wide to allow a gap between shed & fences, and 4.8m deep giving me a straight four-panel-wide cladding job on the ends. Side profile: I have marked on the height of the 109 - the plan is to have benches along the lower side so the lack of height shouldn't be a problem - making it higher, which would be nice, takes me into cloudy waters with planning Alley facing wall: Garden facing wall: I have designed in a removable section so that I can get large things (EG vehicles) in & out of the garden if needed. Roof: My main areas of cluelessness are: - Will 40 or 50mm box section be sufficient to span 4.8m of the roof (if not, what will?) - Is the roof slope OK? Would more/less be better? - How do you make a sliding door so that it is secure and can be locked/unlocked from either side - Suggestions for cladding/roofing materials - Is there enough cross-bracing in it? - Am I daft making it out of steel when wood/blocks would be better (if so, why? bearing in mind my likely incompetence at carpentry or brickwork) The more I look at this, the more I think making it a tad higher would be wise - don't want to overshadow the neighbours too much but equally don't want to end up scraping my roof on the top of the door Might measure the neighbour's shed see how it compares.

OK no they're not, and there's definitely not a pair bolted to the back of my Series from the factory And being so rare the part numbers almost certainly aren't NRC 5606 (Right) and NRC 5607 (left) as opposed to 300816 which your second picture shows. We can only hope that one day the government de-classify the information on whether this was a CSW thing due to the rear-mounted spare or just a random change-point, although with the current levels of national security I doubt we'll find out any time soon.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the AWDC is a club not a business

They're standard Series ones.

Nekarth They sent me an e-mail in very bad English that looked a lot like spam, but they seem to be genuine - never heard of 'em myself

Some you can, yes.

Peter - yes Quite a bit in the tech archive about it, or have a read of Nige's thread which I think explains most things.

I'd get in touch with the S1 club - they should be able to tell you all about them. I don't think you'll lose money on it - buy the lot, see what's what and either do a resto yourself or sell it all on and spend the dosh on the ratty S2 plaything.

If I were going on an expedition I wouldn't be fitting anything made by Britpart

I like that suggestion Andy - do it! Another slightly more sensible one:

True - but at least when they were sponsoring AWDC it wasn't quite as painful, now I'd just be lining Colon's pockets and I'm not sure I could take that.

There is a sh*tload of DRM (Digital Rights Management) with the iPod and iTunes, if you have more than one PC you can't move music between the two as it thinks you're copying things to all your mates. There is a freeware iPod control program that can get round it to a greater or lesser degree I think. Depends if he is such a fashion victim that he absolutely must have an iPod, or if one of the many similar ones available would do the trick. Many of the cheapo ones have no restrictions on them at all.

OK so you have the default temperature sensors - so you don't need to run EasyTherm and you can use the standard MegaSquirt-n-Spark-Extra .s19 rather than the "corrected for Rover" one that Ian has sent you. Your next step is to check the wiring to the sensors.

I find it a little disappointing as I wanted to enter at least one Sc*rp**n sponsored event in a leafer

Yes- it's not impressive, it's sad and I know it

Agree with Tom - that's not a settings fault, that's a dead short on the sensor input or a disconnected sensor (although I think the input "floats up" to max. if there's nothing connected). Now we are getting somewhere! The reason it runs rich is that the ECU thinks the engine is at -40C and the air temperature is -40C, basically it thinks you are starting the car in a freezer. So, when the ECU calculates the amount of fuel to put in, the warmup enrichment will be massive (like choke on a carburettor) and the calculation for the air density (cooler = more dense) will also be way off and result in too much fuel. Looking at the graph, it is sitting at 190% warmup enrichment and 145% air-temp correction (zero correction would be 100%) so you have more than twice as much fuel going in as you should. If you look at the raw data for the sensors (ADC count) the range is from 0 to 255 (as the ECU records it), usually no matter how hot or cold a sensor is it will never truly hit 0 or 255, if it does it's a good indication there's a wiring problem.

A lot of us have the Midland 42, in fact we liked them so much the club bought 10 of them for marshals - they work in-car with an adapter to use 12v from the lighter socket and connect to a proper aerial, or you can attach the battery pack and have it as a walkie-talkie. Midland at Nevada Radio

I put Land Rover HD springs (police spec) on the RR for a similar price, heard mixed comments about the cheapo Britpart ones, and frankly I'm a bit dubious about Britpart quality in general. Paul may have a point though, bushes could be shagged.

I was thinking 80Gb was a bit small to squeeze my MP3 collection on... perhaps I should do more work and less downloading? only joking, that'll be the day

Vehicle painting Pointers - LR non-metallic colour codes - Pearl isn't in there, where are you getting that name from?

Reminds me of a conversation with a truck driver who did a lot of rural deliveries with a rather large low-loader, not the sort of thing that's fun to reverse up a country lane. He said people would just stop in the middle of the lane and wait, expecting him to back up. They changed their mind when he waved his kettle at them and put his feet up on the wheel and started reading the newspaper

http://www.albright.co.uk/

Thanks to those fine chaps at B3TA, this made me laugh rather more than it probably should:

Overdrive is just like an extra gear - clutch down to engage or disengage it. Because of the torque generated in low gears the manual says you should only use it in 3rd or 4th, you can use it in 4WD and low box as the transfer gears are after the overdrive. Oh and keep it topped up with oil, they spit it out of the breather on top as a hobby.

It's all mix and match - my safari never had any cleats for a rag top, besides the roof there's no other differences that I'm aware of - certainly nothing reliable as people can change trim, doors, seats, instruments over time. The LR parts book might give some leads, I think there are detail differences in the dash instruments/switches, trim level (what little trim there is) and as mentioned the back door should be a Safari one not a split tailgate. I'm not sure the V5 would give you any clues, CalVIN might if you stick the VIN in. Given that fact the only real difference is the presence of a Safari roof, why are you concerned about the authenticity of your Safari?