FridgeFreezer

OK so you have the default temperature sensors - so you don't need to run EasyTherm and you can use the standard MegaSquirt-n-Spark-Extra .s19 rather than the "corrected for Rover" one that Ian has sent you. Your next step is to check the wiring to the sensors.

I find it a little disappointing as I wanted to enter at least one Sc*rp**n sponsored event in a leafer

Yes- it's not impressive, it's sad and I know it

Agree with Tom - that's not a settings fault, that's a dead short on the sensor input or a disconnected sensor (although I think the input "floats up" to max. if there's nothing connected). Now we are getting somewhere! The reason it runs rich is that the ECU thinks the engine is at -40C and the air temperature is -40C, basically it thinks you are starting the car in a freezer. So, when the ECU calculates the amount of fuel to put in, the warmup enrichment will be massive (like choke on a carburettor) and the calculation for the air density (cooler = more dense) will also be way off and result in too much fuel. Looking at the graph, it is sitting at 190% warmup enrichment and 145% air-temp correction (zero correction would be 100%) so you have more than twice as much fuel going in as you should. If you look at the raw data for the sensors (ADC count) the range is from 0 to 255 (as the ECU records it), usually no matter how hot or cold a sensor is it will never truly hit 0 or 255, if it does it's a good indication there's a wiring problem.

A lot of us have the Midland 42, in fact we liked them so much the club bought 10 of them for marshals - they work in-car with an adapter to use 12v from the lighter socket and connect to a proper aerial, or you can attach the battery pack and have it as a walkie-talkie. Midland at Nevada Radio

I put Land Rover HD springs (police spec) on the RR for a similar price, heard mixed comments about the cheapo Britpart ones, and frankly I'm a bit dubious about Britpart quality in general. Paul may have a point though, bushes could be shagged.

I was thinking 80Gb was a bit small to squeeze my MP3 collection on... perhaps I should do more work and less downloading? only joking, that'll be the day

Vehicle painting Pointers - LR non-metallic colour codes - Pearl isn't in there, where are you getting that name from?

Reminds me of a conversation with a truck driver who did a lot of rural deliveries with a rather large low-loader, not the sort of thing that's fun to reverse up a country lane. He said people would just stop in the middle of the lane and wait, expecting him to back up. They changed their mind when he waved his kettle at them and put his feet up on the wheel and started reading the newspaper

http://www.albright.co.uk/

Thanks to those fine chaps at B3TA, this made me laugh rather more than it probably should:

Overdrive is just like an extra gear - clutch down to engage or disengage it. Because of the torque generated in low gears the manual says you should only use it in 3rd or 4th, you can use it in 4WD and low box as the transfer gears are after the overdrive. Oh and keep it topped up with oil, they spit it out of the breather on top as a hobby.

It's all mix and match - my safari never had any cleats for a rag top, besides the roof there's no other differences that I'm aware of - certainly nothing reliable as people can change trim, doors, seats, instruments over time. The LR parts book might give some leads, I think there are detail differences in the dash instruments/switches, trim level (what little trim there is) and as mentioned the back door should be a Safari one not a split tailgate. I'm not sure the V5 would give you any clues, CalVIN might if you stick the VIN in. Given that fact the only real difference is the presence of a Safari roof, why are you concerned about the authenticity of your Safari?

I've fitted the crystal ones, only about £5 more than a standard halogen kit from paddocks and they give a nice clear light. I did get water in them at 7S but then I got water in everything at 7S

Why not put the big brakes on a normal axle? I have a not-quite-stage-1 front axle (and a back axle too) going spare, got 11" brakes and the 3.54:1 diffs but the front axle is a normal LR 6cyl one not Stage 1 so uses normal shafts.

e-mail from Hendrik: Which raises a few points: 1) It's running rich, you can reduce the fuelling (REQ_FUEL) or change the fuel map, that's the whole point of a tunable ECU. 2) It's not the .s19, that is the program not the settings, the .s19 is fine and contains the correct sensor readings for your engine. Stop thinking about it. 3) Why assume it's the fuel pump? See 1)! If you keep thinking like that you're not going to get very far - basically it starts & runs so you can now look at the screen (or post a datalog file here) so we can tell you what you need to do. You are now at the point where all you have to do is a bit of tuning, you need to stop thinking that other things are at fault just because the settings are not perfect.

I had one, it was a great big housing that went all the way round it. Later changed to a remote filter and a small "top hat" that just bolted to the top of the carb in place of the pancake. Then I ditched the carb and went EFi

One has a slot on the dizzy and a "blade" on the oil pump gear, the other has a blade on the dizzy and a slot on the oil pump gear. Double check that. Assuming it's correct, they either drop right in or are a complete b*gger to line up.

The basics have been covered here before now - car electrics aren't complicated, if you know ohm's law (V=IR) and P=VI or P=I^2R you're basically there. Knowing the difference/relationship between volts and amps, and how to use that knowledge with a multimeter to find faults is handy. Wikipedia will probably tell you all you need to know, including how things like alternators work. Anything you're confoosed by, ask here and I'm sure someone will explain it.

Got a link / picture / description? Are you sure it's not a roll cage with a roof-rack bolted to it a-la Camel Trophy?

It would help if you don't abbreviate things: When I open it I chose MS2 extra 1.0.2. Do you mean you choose MS2, because this is a completely different thing and won't work with your ECU. Where are you choosing this option? You need to choose "James Murray and Phil Ringwood's MSnS extensions" in the configurator.

That one's easy - you need to run Configurator (MegaTune -> File -> Configurator) and change the CODE_VARIANT settings (Car1 {or whatever you use} -> Settings.ini -> Settings -> CODE_VARIANT -> select from the menu) so that it matches the version that is in your ECU (for example, MSNS_EXTRA "James Murray and Phil Ringwood's MSnS extensions"). If your ECU code is a lot newer than your copy of MegaTune, see if there's an update for that you can download. I am working on a MegaTune guide which I will post soon, it might be a bit long but hopefully it'll be useful - just taken a screen-shot of every single settings screen in MegaTune

From the coil -ve (or ignition amp) is a white/blue that goes to a relay mounted on the shock turret by the AFM and resistor pack. From this it goes to the ECU as a white/black wire. You can safely remove and "jumper out" this relay (join white/blue to white/black) as it's only there to kill the RPM signal on over-run, a total bodge really. It's activated by the vacuum switch next to the fuel pressure regulator. DO NOT jumper the PLAIN WHITE wire to the PLAIN BLACK wire as these are the +12v and GND feeds to the relay The resistor pack should have +12v into it on the two fat brown wires with the ignition on, with the ECU not firing the injectors you should see +12v on all the brown/yellow wires coming from the resistor pack too. IIRC it'll be 5.6 Ohms resistance from the BROWN to any of the Brown/yellow wires although your meter may struggle to measure it properly.

If you explain the problem you're having (and post any info like MSQ files, datalogs, etc.) here I'm sure it can be worked out.

I'd ask the council.