FridgeFreezer

They can stick - driving in a figure 8 (on a soft surface) works, or jack a wheel and rock it. Depends what's stuck really - actuator or mechanism.

We've all been there I think A few thoughts; - Your header tank should have a low pickup (some have a pickup tube inside to a high connection on the outside) that goes to the small tube on the top of the rad. Make sure that's right, connecting a vent tube instead would lead to air being drawn in. Your piccy looks right but without seeing where the pipes go it's hard to tell 100% - You can buy brass rad caps (I believe they're a stock BSP thread or similar) or a bling X-Eng ali one - Your rad sounds like prime suspect, you could try running some Rad Flush through although I doubt it'll make enough difference to avoid buying a new one. If you blast a hose in one port, does it come out of the other end at the same speed?

I found that with my '85 RR, a lot of bits are actually '86. No harm buying both, parts books are a very good investment and will save you a lot of time.

I am subscribed to Petersen's 4-wheel & Off-road. Still waiting to see if Mr Kidd comes good on his promise to bring TOR up to scratch.

Paddocks and many other places sell them, usually about £25. The Range Rover one (86-91) is part number RTC9908CB.

You're too late to join & drive this weekend but you're welcome to come to Bunny Lane on Sunday to spectate and see what's what.

First off, Halfords is an expensive place to buy oil. Find a good local motor factors. 1) If there isn't I can e-mail you an article that should give you a decent idea. I'm sure this has been done before though. 2) Several oils and a load of grease. Flavour will depend on your vehicle. EP90 is a surefire hit, as is decent grease. 3) As I said, find a motor factors. I buy EP90 in 25L drums, it's just easier & cheaper that way. A 5L pump-up plant sprayer is perfect for getting EP90 into your axles, and a decent grease gun is a good investment too. And lastly - no. Wading kits help but are not a guarantee - you need to check your oils & filters after any wading to be sure. Often they'll be OK - but every so often you'll find water. And it's better to find it and drain it than not look and have something expensive go bang when you least want it to.

I thought the ashcroft input gears had deeper splines to engage on the non-worn portion of the input shaft? I've known a few people put a new drilled gear onto a worn input shaft and it's lasted absolutely fine.

Apart from 110/130 rears most coiler spring mounts are very similar if not the same because the springs are the same. Welcome, by the way

It'll be cheaper from Alpine than LR, and cheaper 2nd hand than new. You can probably stick any number of Alpine changers in, most use a standard connection to allow you to add what you want (EG 6, 10, 12 discs, MP3 changer, MiniDisc, etc.).

Oh yeah, always check your oils and filters after wading - water gets everywhere (Jez can tell you about "sealed" fuel filler caps ) and despite having a snorkel this was my air filter base after a session of splashing about: Luckily I have an ITG foam filter I put in for off-roading which means it's less likely to disintegrate. I still run paper filters the rest of the time 'cos I don't really trust the dirt capturing abilities of a bit of sponge.

For clarity, I'd invest in the parts manual, not the service manual - it's far more useful to see how it goes together and what every single part is called (with the correct part#) than to have a book that describes how to undo a nut / press a bearing etc. The main thing I've used my green bible for was the chassis dimensions diagram and the wiring diagram, rest of the time I look at the parts book. It also helps to reduce f**kups by Paddocks (etc.) sending the wrong bit if you can give them a list of part numbers rather than describing oily bits down the phone.

It's the future

The speed sensor can be shot as the speedo is less sensitive to rubbish signals than the ECU will be. I'd check and lean the idle stepper (lump on the back of the plenum with a 4-pin connector) this is what controls the idle speed, they can get full of crud and are known to cause problems. They're also £eek to replace, but I read a suggestion on Pirate recently that there's a universal replacement available for £cheap from somewhere or other.

Haven't you finished that yet? I'd say borrow Al's - but then he'd have an excuse for doing nothing, and if his build was dependent on your build being finished you'd end up in some kind of vapour-build black hole where neither build can finish until the other has

First off, is yours a TDi? If so, life is a bit easier in some respects and more labor intensive in others. A low gear that lets you keep the revs up at a nice gentle bow-wave speed is what you need - this will vary with conditions and is mostly down to your judgment. On road, high 1st is probably fine unless you're in some seriously deep water. PM me your e-mail address and I will send you a couple of articles on wading. Ignore the flaming idiot in the intercooler thread - like the rest of us, it's not like he's never asked a stupid question on this forum

Right hand exhaust downpipe. If you LPG installer has used Scotchloks to splice into the loom, slap him and prepare for electrical problems ahead.

You *might* find the old axle is imperial and the new one metric, so some stuff may not be swappable.

Dunno about CO, but air fuel ratios are also known as lambda (hence lambda sensor). Normal running should be at lambda = 1 (or 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio). At the high load end (higher RPM or wider open throttle) you want to be richer, about 13-12.5:1. Idle will probably want to be richer too. Most MOT stations should be able to measure lambda, then again if you've got a lambda sensor in your exhaust you can measure it direct with a voltmeter for free

Can you interchange a Defender-ratio input gear with a Disco/RR one? I'd just get a new one for what it's worth.

This one's earlier - it has a dizzy although timing is ECU controlled.

You may need to put the gearbox & transfer box into neutral and rotate the gear a few times before the gears spin round and line up so you can pull it out.

The V5 arrived today, so it's now officially mine and taxed too. I did get the engine to splutter after wading (it was quite deep, and I had driven past a "road closed" sign ) which gives me an excuse to fit MS'n'EDIS at some point can't bring myself to cut a hole in it for a snorkel, it would only lead to it getting used off-road a bit more than is healthy On the road it's nice - the RR is definitely a more relaxed motorway cruiser (V8 & auto it would be) but the freebie is nippy and goes round corners nicely. Getting ~26mpg at the moment despite "spirited" driving so that's a nice change as well B) I have noticed a quirk which is if I'm doing a tight turn (full lock) it feels like it is struggling, as if the wheels are scrubbing. Is this normal or is something out of kilter? From the wear on the front tyres I think the tracking may be out anyway.

Welcome - smart car! (Seems wrong to call a freebie a truck a-la most other vehicles on this forum ) Whereabouts are you?

When we got Ed's SJ it didn't run too well - a good service and adjust of the tappets etc. had it running like a sewing machine. Never overlook the small things.