FridgeFreezer

If the plugs are wet there must be an ECU to fire the injectors, likewise there shouldn't be an immobiliser in circuit as the ECU wouldn't inject fuel if the signal from the coil was cut off.

Depends is they were actually vehicular rights of way or not, how are you deciding what's a lane and what's not?

Do you want the 5 minute argument or the full half hour? Generally: TDi's have better economy and are more waterproof as stock V8's have more grunt and are cheaper to buy Now there's a million swings and roundabouts around every aspect of both engines which can be argued about indefinitely. I would say if it's just going to be a toy and you can live with the poor MPG a V8 will be more suited to trials (good for quick bursts of power from tickover) and will cost you less to buy than an equivalent TDi engined vehicle. If you want to do lots of road miles in it, then a TDi will be less painful at the fuel pump.

It'll never fit me But yes you are welcome to have a ride, I may even let you have a drive - bring cookies BTW are you gonna be awake enough to go to the pub Saturday PM? I'm guessing it'll either be jet-lag or you'll be on US time and so be really awake while we're all getting sleepy

Could be something is earthing back through the wires in that connector because of a faulty earth.

I'd throw an LT77 and LT230 in for what it's worth these days.

You walked into that then

Thinking worst-case, in a situation where there's an electrical fault / short that risks a wiring fire and/or battery explosion you'd want the switch to isolate as much as possible. This is what happens to batteries and cables under fault situations

Avoiding the question totally, I stuck a diesel pickup tube in my tank and used an external pump.

That reminds me, I still have the bush-o-matic better give that back at some point! Damn handy little thing though.

Can you give a few more details - is it a LWB or SWB series? LWB can be shortened a bit to fit onto 100", SWB you're into chopping the chassis about (doable but puts you on slightly dodgy legal ground over here). Check Corrode Finger's build for some ideas, if not on what colour to paint it Ignoring the more recent UK SVA issues, 88" coiler hybrids have been done a thousand times over here using RR/Disco chassis and Series bodywork, here's just one example. As for engine - if your gearbox was from a V8 then no, if it was from a 200tdi or 300tdi then yes. Does beg the question, why not stick with whatever was in front of the gearbox originally - the V8 will be a hoot in a Series, a TDi will have a bit more power and economy, both will be more reliable.

Depends what lump you're running, having seen how the GKN handled Dave's TGV lump I'm not sure I'd recommend it on a truck that's driven hard. No idea if the RM unit would cope better (IIRC it's a different design?). Not an option for me as I need the PTO hole for a PTO and as I said, the limiting factor is the prop speed, so diff gearing not gearbox gearing.

Wrong forum - you probably wanted the disco forum for this Q For what they cost I'd look and the wheel arch kits, saves an awful lot of faffing about.

Alternative to a Lucarse amp module - a bit of work but on my RR I've had one on for thousands of miles with a silly sports coil and it's been fine: GM amplifier upgrade.

Coolant temperature sensor is cheap and not too stressful to replace, apart form that the airflow meter could be dodgy, I'd advise trying to borrow a known good one. There is an EFI fault finding manual in the tech archive (there's one for flapper and one for hotwire type systems) the best thing is to work though that methodically.

Starting with cheap and easy to investigate: Blocked rad? Stuck stat?

The fuel pump will only run for a couple of seconds unless the engine is cranking over, the ECU turns it off after the initial prime. Are the plugs clean? V8's really hate poor plugs and the spark is as weak as an asthmatic kitten as standard.

Seen a couple on triallers, I've been considering doing it too just to remove the extra belt drive from the engine.

Spool? Do you mean the Ashcroft 2WD kit? (no centre diff, just RWD or locked?) Al - I didn't think you were using mog centres, or is that for your actual mog?

Something is better than nothing - given how basic an internal hoop with back-stays is I wouldn't spend too long searching ebay, just phone round see if someone can supply the parts new or bend something up for you. I'd be quite wary of eBay cages anyway, just because they could turn out to be knocked up in a barn by some cretin with a hobby-MIG and some spare scaffolding I'd want to have a good look before buying.

They should have some sort of speed camera that targets people with foglights - perhaps one armed with a gun

Running 37x12.50R16's although they only measure 35" in reality. With 7.29:1 overall axle ratio my top speed is about 60-70, limited by propshaft balance more than anything as the props are doing the equivalent of 100mph+ if they were in a RR with that transfer box on.

For a more scientific version of "how powerful": The recovery bible - contains loads of far-too-in-depth tech but also contains this handy bit that will help you understand the forces involved: Yeah, 8000lbs is fine buy a snatch block and you've got 16,000lbs if you really need it.

Early Range Rover 3spd auto has a 1.003:1 transfer box. It's what I'm running.

The entire system on the 109 is plumbed in rubber, I replaced the hoses on dad's RR front-to-back with rubber and both have gone through MOT no problem. Make sure you get EFi or high pressure hose and not carb hose. It's not pricey. Proper fuel hose clips are very worthwhile too.