FridgeFreezer

Running 37x12.50R16's although they only measure 35" in reality. With 7.29:1 overall axle ratio my top speed is about 60-70, limited by propshaft balance more than anything as the props are doing the equivalent of 100mph+ if they were in a RR with that transfer box on.

For a more scientific version of "how powerful": The recovery bible - contains loads of far-too-in-depth tech but also contains this handy bit that will help you understand the forces involved: Yeah, 8000lbs is fine buy a snatch block and you've got 16,000lbs if you really need it.

Early Range Rover 3spd auto has a 1.003:1 transfer box. It's what I'm running.

The entire system on the 109 is plumbed in rubber, I replaced the hoses on dad's RR front-to-back with rubber and both have gone through MOT no problem. Make sure you get EFi or high pressure hose and not carb hose. It's not pricey. Proper fuel hose clips are very worthwhile too.

First stop with electrical faults like that is earthing points - if one connector was corroded, there's a chance others are too and there's a good chance an earth wire or two are past their best.

Hand crank? Yuk - I'd track down a hydro power pack, for example from a Transit tipper, and use that.

Now you need never go to PC world ever again I would avoid the DVD recorders, a HDD one would likely be the most vibration resistant (more than tape) as they use laptop-style HD's which are incredibly tolerant of shocks. I've yet to see a reasonably priced HDD recorder though, unless you've found something?

I'm not massively bothered by adverts - it's "advertorials" and "reviewverts" that p*ss me off. They never actually tell the truth about a product, or meaningfully compare products - just print some non-committal waffle about all of them that won't upset anyone but leaves you none the wiser about which product is actually any good. Even more annoying is when they print the drivel from the back of the packet and pass it off as "product news", especially when it's for some total snake oil a*se gravy like fuel-line magnets etc.

Have it - or sell it to me After using Jez's press it's gone up my workshop wishlist massively, such a handy tool for bending/pressing/punching/straightening.

Jules used a normal tripod folded up and bungeed to the rear bulkhead for his famous flip video, seems cheap, versatile and surprisingly stable (the tripod, not Jules ) I've tried a few homebrew and commercial mounts and unless you spend a decent amount of cash it's very hard to get something that works under vibration. Nigel H had a suction mount (a very expensive one I might add) that worked really well, he even stuck it to his bonnet at Slindon Mini DV cams are cheap nowadays, I wouldn't go for anything too expensive as it will discourage you from using it in slightly risky situations (either that or make sure it's insured with a very understanding company ) some of the best shots are gotten by risking the gear. You can get firewire cards for PC's and laptops for less than £20. I bought a USB video converter (analogue in, AVI/MPG/whatever out) but it takes a load of processor power and ends up dropping frames at higher (read: decent) resolutions. Firewire I think transfers the DV data stream direct so is less CPU intensive as long as your HD can keep up.

Yes, the ignition system is separate from the EFi - the -ve of the coil (or a signal from the amp on some models) is connected to the ECU via a white/black wire, if this signal isn't there the ecu will play dead (no sparks = engine not turning as far as the ECU is concerned) so start basic, there's a lot more common and simple stuff to get through before looking at the ECU. Oh and if your amp is dead you can replace it with a GM one for £25 which will handle silly big coils, see here.

I wouldn't Since this "porn" seems to be of the other type, here's a handy guide for you diesel boys:

Look in the tech archive for EFi fault finding guides, Nige has posted some excellent PDF's - work through the guide methodically and you should sort it easily enough.

Of course they're £40 forum price, tested & working.

Is the bonnet steel or ali? If it's steel, mag mount it there - easy and a nice big ground plate for the aerial. Gutter mount would work, the portion of aerial sticking above your roof should bend nicely for car-parks and things although it'll make loads of fun twanging noises and probably hit every sign, pipe, and light fitting on the way through

For tech, read Nige's write-up in the Tools'n'Fab forum and just ignore anything relating to fuel.

Bill had a load of those TBI's, they're surprisingly cheap. Dunno if he's still got any.

Mmmmm, 4-barrelly LT230 2WD conversion I've done it a couple of times now, Twizzle has done it on his 109 too.

Blatant plug: I have EDIS-8 units for sale

Petrol or diesel?

Not bling, just expensive I is all about bling, innit?

eBay it, some TVR/kit car muppet will pay good money for it.

And tanks! :)

Nige - I have a CF-18 for work, if you want to play before you buy you're welcome. Not as tough as the older CF27/8/9 toughbooks though.

RRX - widebands are nice, and essential for turbo tuning, but for seeing if your carbs are over or under fuelling a narrow band will be fine. A carb is one up from an abacus so why bolt a pentium chip to one