FridgeFreezer

Might be able to help you there - I'll have a rummage...

It'd only fill up with mud in the standard position

Welcome I've got one and will probably have it at sodbury, but as Tonk says without knowing where you are that could be totally useless

Without seeing it I can't be 100% but many are - Lucas and Bosch often are. Why pay an auto electrician? This could involve two screws and a connector... I think the regulator packs are ~£12 new.

Sounds like the alt could have a dead regulator. To track down a current drain, remove one of the battery leads (-ve is safer) and put an ammeter between it and the battery terminal. Then disconnect things (or pull fuses) until the current draw drops to "not much". I'd start by disconnecting the alternator charge wire to see what happens. You should have less than 1 amp draw, give or take dependent on alarms, interior lights, stereo memory, etc.

Don't you know nuffink Tony - chains don't work and are lethal and unsuitable and cause cancer of the puppy honestly it's as if you're not even listening to the experts...

I've got a set of 205 road tyres on RR rims in the garden you're welcome to borrow.

I do not claim to be an expert on anything ever but when I asked my local alternator chap if he'd swap a poly-V for a normal V on my 140A alt he flatly refused saying it would melt the V belt in no time. If you look round the scrapyard there's not much over 80-90A that isn't poly-V, whether that's due to the general move to serpentine belts or down to the power requirements I don't know. I would imagine a 24V alt would be a bit more efficient at high current but only a smidgen, mainly due to lower losses due to the reduced current for the same power output. Generally, the higher the voltage, the lower the transmission losses for the same transmitted power due to ohm's law and all that unnecessary mathematics nonsense. I doubt the unit would be any more mechanically efficient in the conversion of rotation to electricities, it's just that less gets lost in the wire between alt & battery.

Sure thing, I'll bring one with - there are the "budget" £12 jobbies and the deluxe heavier-weight "challenge" ones for £25 (apparently some challenges specify a minimum weight).

Cheers Ian, I will stick it into my MSQ and upload for the benefit of other forumers B)

Nothing personal Jim, Hendrik did ask the question after all - and you can't come up with a number without knowing some other numbers.

Excellent stuff Ian, I can imagine mud tyres are not ideal dyno material Any chance you could ping me a copy of your spark map (assuming it would be applicable on mine) to replace the "boosted" one you sent me?

Forever? Wow! That's impressive... I didn't realise some basic arithmetic would count as lots of maths... surely taking a figure for current draw, battery capacity and alt output isn't rocket science and would provide a useful idea of how long you can winch before the voltage drops to a certain level?

I am running 80/110W "Rally Blues" which cast a slightly greeny tint but are (as the name suggests) great for country lanes and the tint does make road markings etc. a bit clearer. Howerver, that's in a RR so I can only assume my wiring is of superior quality as it hasn't caught fire yet You can, as mentioned, get bulbs that produce more light for the same wattage, those would be fine with standard wiring.

How many amps does your setup draw when winching, how long do you winch for at what duty cycle, how fast do you want it to recover / how low are you happy to let the voltage drop...

For some reason typing LA Supertrux into google doesn't find their website, and they don't print it on their adverts You're right, swampers are a bit rich for my pocket, for £100 less per tyre I can have the Fedima 900x16's which look reasonably lumpy.

I can send you some nice Mivvi stickers for it if you like?

TBH I hadn't even found a price on them.

We sell them at club meets for £12, I can't imagine how much cheaper you can get?

Yes.

You've got it all wrong Paul - unless you do loads of damage you're not extreme.

I used 5mm (or possibly 4.8mm, whatever it's the standard size) on mine, standard aluminium rivets. On holes that had become enlarged I used ali rivet washers to give the rivet some grip. Lazy tong riveters are good, air powered ones even better. Normal riveters will probably lead to paintwork scratching as you say.

I've got a wire brush here for the angle grinder, will that do? It's what I used to sand down my paintwork before the concours re-spray

You can work it out using the gear ratio calculator. I have the civvy 4x4 diffs which are 7.29, I run a 1:1 transfer box from an early RR 3-speed auto, and with ~36" tyres it does 60mph at about 3000rpm in 5th. Low range is incredibly low, which is great - saves buying an underdrive easy option is go for bigger tyres to raise the gearing. Height gain is about 6" (the drop of the portal box). Width is not a lot extra - the disc conversions knock an inch off each side. I can follow ruts and holes dug by "normal" land rovers in the 109. Although Petal wouldn't fit with the 18" wide boggers - it wouldn't need to

I believe this cracking is referred to further up the thread about the XZL's. The recommended rim is only 8", so I'd imagine 1" extra can't make that much difference.