FridgeFreezer

Which one do you mean - the one where I went in after you?

Sounds like the ECU is just over-fuelling then, with no closed-loop operation it'll just be chucking in whatever fuel it thinks is right. This is why I don't like "chipped" ECU's, unless you tune it to your vehicle it'll never be right for your vehicle. At best it'll be a close match based on a very similar engine.

Re-centering wheels would be unknown territory for me, bear in mind the truck does get used for long distance as well as fooling about in the mud. How would you get a LR stud pattern, usually found on a 16" wheel, onto a 20" rim? I'm having trouble seeing how it could end up looking anything but a bit weird. If I was going to re-center wheels I'd re-center my old negative offset Volvo rims to LR pattern and run 37x150's which are far more available and would look damn cool

That's the problem, most 35"+ tyres are only available in W I D E sizes, which is no good for me as my tracks is already wide enough and I don't want to be spending out on wider rims.

After a few outing on the XZL's I have come to the conclusion that, whilst an excellent all-round expedition type tyre, they're no match for more extreme mud treads in the sticky stuff. The problems I have are: 1) They need to be 35" to keep my gearing nice, and that's really 35" not 35" written on the side but stands 33.5" as some seem to be. 2) I don't want them to stick out any more than they do already, plus I don't want to fork out on a new set of rims, so they need to fit a 7" wide 16" rim. 3) I'm skint, so they can't be megabucks - in my book that rules out BFG, Simex and a few others. I've found that Fedima do Trekkers (simex copy) in 900x16 that are ~36" high according to King Offroad at £145 per tyre which seems OK. Maxxis seem to be good value but I'm struggling to find size & price info. So - I'm after suggestions/sources and prices - or if anyone's got a used set of something for sale cheap?

A few photos courtesy of Andy Merry: Mmmm Mog: Jules failing to proceed Rich dropping in Disco going up: Ali - getting stuck was nowt to do with axles, more the fact my tyres are not even MT pattern. That and people kept pestering me to drive through bits no-one else was stupid enough to go near

Landybehr - check further up the thread, I have posted exactly what you ask for:

Yes please!

Courtesy of google image search

You can MIG aluminium - IIRC you want a short torch with a good liner, an oversize tip and you need argon not argon/CO2 mix. As Nige said, unless you can TIG, buy a MIG.

Series 3: Stage 1 V8: Note the defender-stye front end.

Depends how you drive it really, you can get shockingly low MPG from a big V8 if you've got a heavy right foot. 450kg is a significant weight to be towing about the place too. 270km on 90l is not good - the 109 (4.6 V8, RP4 cam, MS'n'EDIS) can touch 20mpg if I drive sensibly, which would be the best part of 400m / 640km on 90l. Does your ECU use lambda sensor(s)?

IIRC some on here are running LT230's and series front axles without problems. Then again, the 2WD conversion is easy.

Is it possible to loose some data like the VE/AFR/Ign-tables when playing with MS-Tune offline ? Well, you can mess it up by putting weird values in and forgetting what you've changed but then, of course, you'd save any changes as a new file so you can always go back. - When opening a msq-file there is a prompt of "681warning messages written to audit.log.file". Not too reassuring first time you read this. But seems not to influence anything. Best disregarded ? It could be that you're loading an MSQ file that is for a different version of the MegaSquirt software to what your ECU is running. I'd check the MSEFI forums about that to check it's not going to mess things up if you burn it to the ECU. - I have the 4.2l V8. If I´m correct that equals to 261cu.in (?). When computing the req.fuel I get values of 17.9 which seem to be pretty high. In another msq from a 4.6Disco I read 10.0. But >> the 3.9 injectors flow 54cc´s at 3bar (roughly 43psi) per 1/2minute at 30% duty cycle which sums up to 216cc´s at 3bar per minute. Which value should I trust. The REQ_FUEL value is fairly arbitrary - yes you can calculate it for your engine, but for example if your fuel map is too lean, you can increase REQ_FUEL and this will have the effect of increasing the fuelling right across the map. At the end of the day it's just a number the ECU uses to calculate the amount of fuel to squirt. Assuming the 4.6 map works and runs, I'd use that and tune from there.

...And none of you followed my tracks afterwards, you big jessies As was said, the tyres let me down, they're great for an expedition / all round but nowhere near a good mud tyre. Who wants to sell me a set of 37" Mudzillas for £20?

I'd look at clocking the PTO up a bit and raising the guard.

You need to pull the whole back of the box off and change the tail casting, shift linkage, and the shifter link on top, you can't just swap the top piece - ask me how I know... Defender tailcasting: RR/Disco tailcasting:

Despite every bugger taking photos every time I got stuck, I had a great time too.

I had the joy of a stuck (closed) thermostat recently, that caused very quick boiling despite the bottom hose of the rad staying cold.

I was just thinking the tyres on the 109 are wearing like that...

Easy fuel check is to splice a cheap inline filter on the return line (from the regulator), then you can see how much fuel is returning (or not). It should be a good flow at tickover/static revving. If it's not, suspect lazy fuel pump (which would cause underfuelling) or sticky regulator (which would cause overfuelling in my experience, they tend to stick shut).

Really - two or three leaves? Wondering if I should fit the revolvers to see what happens, drove all round 7S with the Gon2far front mounts locked 'cos I forgot I had them

I'm not going to write the list for mine - it'd take too long and it would scare me Suffice to say in ~7 years I have gone from a standard tatty 109 to my present "classic restoration" via a few stops on the way, there's not much of the original left but it's still my 109

That's not an answer - I wasn't asking how heterosexual your Mog isn't, I was asking if you could drive it right now should you decide to come out of the closet.

So can you drive the mog at the moment? Will you, therefore, be bringing it out to play at the next opportunity?