FridgeFreezer

Not a bad idea, cheaper than an ARB - and I happen to have a brand new set of Defender FWH's for sale. These are quite rare (they came as part of the LT230 2WD kit and obviously have no use on any other coiler). If you're wondering what the difference is, coiler hubs have a different bolt pattern to Series ones, so you can't use Series FWH's.

It's more hassle than it's worth to swap the internals of an LT230, you're just as well buying one complete - after all, you'd probably have to buy a complete one to get hold of the gears anyway. Re: mainshaft failure, I believe it was early R380's that suffered most - it depends on the gearbox number suffix, the later it is the stronger it is give or take. Apart from the shift mechanism and minor ratio differences there's no difference between a Disco LT77 and a Defender LT77 of the same year strength wise.

I have a Ryobi ONE+ sabre saw and I it, seems decent quality and a damn handy thing to boot.

For £400 I'd imagine there are a few forumers who'd make you a bespoke one. NeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeoooooooooooooBANGtissshhh!

Tractor PAS kit on eBay looks rather similar to the vastly expensive CPC kit, wonder if this could be a source for cheaper rams? Edit: Changed the link, owzat?

Me too - usually if Dan's driving every part of the vehicle is vulnerable to damage!

I'm using a Disco 200TDi one, because I had one if you've got room a 110 V8 filter is the size of a dustbin. There was a pic on Pirate of a guy who hacked up an oil-bath filter to stuff a Saab paper element in but it really didn't seem worth the hassle (and he made a poor job of it IMHO)

Sodbury's coming up, both Anchor and The Paint Man are usually there.

I vote for the B&Q Super-extreme version.

Al - I have a bit of surplus carpet here (it's from a cruise liner) if you want, it's exactly the size of the back of a transit van so probably fit nicely under your truck-shaped-space Like the DIY solar idea, to steal an idea from Twizzle he's done similar but mounted an old household rad behind the wood burner to soak up heat headed for the wall and transport it elsewhere, a very clever setup.

That works, although I splice one of these into the return line so you can see the flow without having a bucket of petrol. Remember the return line is the one from the PRV, not the open end of the fuel rail. Fuel pump will only run with ignition on AND the AFM flap poked open a bit (if it's a flappy type), not sure what the hotwire equivalent is.

The tape measure is your friend - buy the biggest thing that will fit in the hole.

Al - can't you stuff the vapour into an envelope and get it posted? I'm in Birmingham next Monday/Tuesday and will be coming back past your "work" shop, if it'll fit in a small van (they took my big one ) I may be able to help, although the least detour from the route home I have to do, the safer my job remains

It refers to the airflow meter (the lump between air filter and plenum), inside it will either have a flappy bit or a heated wire to measure the air going past it. The flappy ones, if you poke the flap with the ignition on the fuel pump should run (this may be handy for your testing). Don't poke the hotwire Fuel pressure regulator could be another culprit - stick an inline filter in the return line (from FPR) and see if fuel is returning to the tank. If it's stuck shut it will be a small or no flow. It should gush past at idle.

Sounds like ignition amp then. IIRC they're about £35 if it's mounted on the dizzy. If it's on the wing under the coil, fit a GM one instead.

Got an oil cooler? Fit one. It's surprising how much difference they can make. I bought one about a foot square at Sodbury for £3. As has been said, a rear mounted rad should cool fine. I'd trawl the scrapyard for the biggest fan(s) you can make fit, and make sure they have a good seal on the rad. A big ali rad from a modern van, SUV, 4x4 or people carrier could be a good stop before calling Summit, although their ali rads are ludicrously cheap. You say the engine runs sweet - is it running lean? Slightly lean will give good response & power but RV8's don't like being lean, if there's any way you can richen it up, give that a try. Replacing the ECU coolant sensor with a resistor to make it think it's a bit cooler than normal can richen the mixture a bit - 400 Ohms would make it think it's about 70C, 500 Ohms is about 62C, 700 is about 50C, 1k is about 40C. You could get sexercisey and use a 4K pot to get the full range of twiddle, with a switch to reconnect the original sensor when the novelty wears off. Oh and don't listen to the diesel boys (if you can hear them over the rattling), you'd only spend all your time changing cambelts instead

Good old RA, isn't their slogan "No, no, no no!"? Woah, let's not go crazy here!

I'd go 100 - then you can use an unchopped RR chassis (a good one will set you back about £1.50) which keeps you on relatively stable ground SVA wise, and does 7" really make that much difference? Corrode_Finger's hybrid experience shows you can stick a LR body on a RR chassis and the DVLA are happy enough with just a VIC, however due to the low number of original components you have you could still be on slightly iffy ground - if the DVLA will swallow the idea that all the bits were replaced like-for-like due to age over a number of years and then you just plonked the defender bodywork on, you're a winner. Starting with a V8 RR chassis that left the factory with the same transmission as you have would encourage that idea.

A mate had a set in 36 or 37 on a 110, didn't off-road it but did rack up a lot of road miles and they lasted OK.

If I want to get a long way I switch the 150W amp on

Was it something I said? It'll be fine, once you stand it up, leave it to settle for an hour or so as the oil in the compressor settles down.

I agree - unless you're using a transistor, switch to ground just makes more wiring.

Well obviously mounting it on canvas is going to be a bit lacking in the ground plane department mounting it in the middle of your bonnet should be fine, aluminium is nice and conductive (although rubbish for mag-mounts ).

1) ALWAYS use a fuse 2) Splicing into the feed to another fuse is not a good idea unless you're certain that the wire is up to the job, is a direct battery feed / ignition switched depending on what you want, and of course you won't be using Scotchloks to splice in, will you? Far better to run a new wire from the battery post / distribution point. 3) ALWAYS ALWAYS use a fuse 4) If you don't want to run wires all over the place, mount a relay-and-fuse near the battery with a short run of heavy wire to the lights, and then you can use a low-current switch and wire to turn the relay on - it's fine to nick that from the fused side of another circuit. You can get inline fuses and relay holders (and relays with inbuilt fuses), waterproofing (if required) is easy enough with a cheapo Asda tupperware box or similar. 5) ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use a fuse!

Which ground plane issues do you mean?