Oakmaster

Low temperatures / cold starting what's the best battery bang for my limited bucks Thanks for their help and advice on the Airflow Meter I now have it replaced and the problem is solved. Next issue is related to starting The battery is probably past it, and I want to replace it with something that wont let the girls down when they drive it to Alps over half term. Given that Id like to get my series one and two back on the road, I don’t want to spend a fortune on an exotic battery – so what's the best bang for my limited bucks for low temperature / cold starting? cheers

Just had the MAF changed on my Disco Td5 - did make matters a lot better, - was recomedned to have the diagnostics process first to check that I didnt have rouge symptoms

Gutless Disco, Advice needed My Fiancé has a Disco II TD5 It seems very gutless below 1500 RPM. It pulls well once the revs rise above 1500, but is seriously powerless below, to the point where you cant let the revs drop or you are up and down through the box all the time, it's not a pleasant experience. I never found this to be a problem in the TD5 110 I had before my Puma powered 110, but despite having many series and defenders have little experience of Discoveries, so I’m wondering if this is a recognised problem, and if it is a recognised problem what? And what to do to rectify it? Thanks Bill This is obviously such a silly question that the Series forum wont answer it – But neither My series one 86” (1955) and series two 88” (1959) –have wheel braces, and I need to rectify the situation. What size is the wheel nut? What is the most cost effective way to get a replacement (without cracking the socket or bending the ‘breaking’ bar) - cheers

I have a series one 86” (1955) and a series two 88” (1959) – neither have wheel braces, and I need to rectify the situation. What is the easiest and most cost effective way to achieve this? Can you get heavy duty wheel braces like Paddocks do for S III and defenders? If I end up at the local parts store what size am I asking for is it ½ Whitworth? And lastly are the series one 1955 and series two 1959 both the same. Cheers

Anybody seen this? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/motoringvideo/8905109/Andrew-English-drives-DC100-concept-that-will-replace-Landrover-Defender.html

Wiltshire Land Rovers 329 Snarlton La, Melksham SN12 7QP 01225 700975 ‎ Havnt been for 10 years, but used to be very good, nice people, and an intetresting yard full of stuff (then - Scammel recovery. AEC militant, US 6x6s) used to specialsie in V6 S1s

me too Mate Me too, - thats the great thing about this forum - I dont understand half of what these learned blokes are saying but I'm learning fast! and enjoying the experience - thanks guys! cheers

I think its great too - I have somthing very similar, which I bought out of a free ads paper about 15 years ago - professionally built (apparently) on an Ifor williams chassis - very light, good brakes, complete with hard top and re-spray -

In fact, go to ebay, go to advanced search, and search for "Land Rover" with Buy Now and a Max Price £58. There are 79,385 items, most if not all of which are more useful than anything made by Britpart. made me laugh! - thanks for brightening up this day

errr..................what exactly is 10K boost??? (for the less well informed amoungst us! - Id rerally like to have the street looked like i had set fire to a pile of tyres on the drive - LOL Jk!)

Sorry should have been clearer - chequerplate doorcard screwed into the door frame counters the effect of all the busted welds.

We lived in a rented cottage for 18 months down the end of a long track, rutted and potholed, but used (cautiously) by ‘ordinary’ cars too. However by the time we there 12 months both the back door of my 110 CSW, and the back door of my late Wife’s 90 were trashed. All or most of the welds failed, and this with standard sized wheel / tyre combinations. This doesn’t reflect well on Land-Rover, but the solution is to fit a separate Wheel carrier (ideally before your door gets busted) and fit a chequer plate sheet in place of the door card.

I too am looking for a solution to this problem, I have air con and a winch, so a light mounting bar like the Simmonites one "Fairly tidy alternative, take a look at the bottom of the page of http://simmonites.co...%20LIGHTING.htm " seems like the sort of solution I’m looking for. Does anyone who has fitted one have any comments or advice to share? Especially as to ease of fitment, durability effectiveness – and down sides? Are there alternatives / similar ones available? Better or Cheaper? Thanks

My Genetically induced aversion to parting with the folding stuff sent me scurrying off to Lidl for a trio of these, I have do doubt that the CTEK is the Mutts nuts, but at £225 a pop, for the CTEK Multi XS 25000I think I’ll experiment with the £12.99 Lidl ones. They do have a 3 yr guarantee, so as long as you can be bothered to claim if there is a problem it should be safe enough Being as they claim to charge all kinds of lead acid batteries, I have got them started on The long dead mower battery, and a small mountain of life-expired computer UPS 12V -7Ah. I’ll up-date you as to how I get on. Thanks for the advice.

This Post is in addition to the posting about electric engine block heaters, I have a 1989 110 V8 pick-up, and a 1955 Series I, In addition to my 110 XS CSW Puma, I realise I am a very Lucky guy, The V8 and the S1, have not been in everyday use, as when winter comes I gravitate to the 110 XS (its less draughty and the heater works) When the Big Freeze came, and I wanted to lend them out neither would start. What would have helped would have been to have had the batteries in tip top condition, hence the reason for the post. I have 3 parts to this question 1 Is there a reasonably priced, but effective trickle charger that I can just leave on all the time to keep the batteries in a Tip-Top state of charge. What would people recommend? 2 Given that one of the batteries Bought new for my previous 300 Tdi, At 750 CCA, big, expensive, and heavy duty. (although barely used for 3 years.) Is there a sure fire way of rescuing it? I have read a lot of stuff on the web about sulfation, and de sulfation, and battery conditioners, but I’d really like to hear the views of the Land-Rover people. Especially if people have had good results, and if there is a charger that will both condition and trickle charge. 3 And lastly I have posted about using Engine Block heaters, because I happen to have a couple I bought in the USA, and given our recent low temperatures, was wondering about using them with timers and / or frost stats to better the odd of ensuring that they atart when wanted. Thanks

"Bulgin Buccaneer sealed sockets" can you tell us more?

I am a very Lucky guy, In addition to my 110 XS CSW Puma, I have a 1989 110 V8 pick-up, and a 1955 Series I. When winter comes I gravitate to the 110 XS (because its less draughty and the heater works) so the V8 and the S1, were not in everyday use. When the Big Freeze came, and I wanted to lend them out to less enlightened, neither would start. Now I appreciate this is more to do with the state of the batteries, than a frozen engine, and I’m going to post a query about finding a battery conditioner / trickle charger separately, but I wanted to see what experience people had with Block Heaters. In the UK the only engine heater that you come across regularly is the Kenlowe, but Its seems that in the US or Canada you can get heaters that warm the Block (from the outside) warm the Oil (via an immersion heater that replaces the dipstick) Warm the coolant system in line (as per the Kenlowe) Warm the fuel Filters, and the tank, warm the battery, and trace tapes to warm the fuel lines. Here are a couple of sites to have a look at (there is a lot more on Google – as you would expect) http://www.metrompg.com/posts/block-heater.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_heater I do have a couple of the Warm the coolant system type heaters I bought in the USA a while back but haven’t fitted yet, they were both about $40 (about £25 quid then) are rated for 220V (not 120V US domestic) I would be very interested in hearing from anybody who has fitted one, and what the results were like. Also any ideas about fitting, the use of timers / frost stats, cable routing, integration with a battery conditioner / trickle charger, and a fool-proof method of not driving off with it all still plugged-in! Thanks

Stronger rust resistant brackets would be great - The recent winds blew a rear mudflap off both my 300 Tdi and my Series II (one off each!) So a more resiliant material perhaps, and an easy way to remove them for Off road use?

Thank you for your responses - much appreciated.

Can anybody recommend a garage / workshop / mechanic specialising in Land-Rovers (Defender 300 Tdi) operating in the area North of Banbury? Servicing and maintenance, (small tractor expertise would be an added bonus!) Thanks

yes it is covered under warranty, but I have discovered that banging on desks doesnt seem to majically convey brainpower to the staff at our local main dealer. I just thought somebody else on this frum might have an answer. Turns out somebody else at work has had the same thing with a Td5

Centrally Locked out The 09 plate 110 CSW is my 17th landrover (and one of five I currently own S1 SII 110 V8 110 CSW 300 Tdi ) I live on top of a hill, and in weather like this 4WD is the only way to get anywhere. This morning I started her up to do the school run (No Buses run if there is even a suggestion of snow) and while she was idling I went round and de-iced the windows. Suddenly the central locking started operating of its own accord – On and off, On and off, a few times, then Clunk – I was locked-out with the engine running. I found the spare key, but it would not unlock electronically, but twenty minutes lots of hot water, and WD40 eventually freed-off the drivers side door lock mechanically and I was back in. I wonder if anybody has experienced this? And has any idea as to how to stop it happening again. I've had Land-Rover ‘Assist’ out 3 times in the last 4 weeks to fix (but not permanently fix) a very simple starting problem so I don’t expect much help from them, and the local main dealers do not have a good track record for fixing gremlins, so I thought I’d ask the ‘collective brain’ Any Ideas??

Excelent, for anyone who knows and is still reading I have three questions 1- How do you know where to weld on the brackets, if your chasis doesnt have them already? 2 - is there a difference between the Anti Roll Bars used for different models, 90 110 130 discovery 3 - My V8 110 Pickup is my daily driver not my off-roader, and as a pick-up is very light on the back end. Which end should I put the anti roll bars (and for those of us whop dont know) and why? thank you

With apologies to SpenB, didnt mean to HiJack his topic. Just got carried away with 'newbie' enthusiasm that I might learn somthing relevant tp my situation too! Contact with the factory was via a friend who used to work there, and to be fair to this chap, who took the time and trouble to reply - He did send an A4 page of part numbers for the correct fitment. This made me wonder what the differences could be? Thanks

I would be very interested to hjear what the 'collective mind' thinks about this topic. I had a front anti rollbar fitted to my 1985 Rangerover about 12 yrs ago (shocks springs too) which transformed the vehicle. and I was contempting doing it to my 110 CSW Td5, bought a bar off the 'bay, was going to have it fitted, but by chance ahd the opportunityu to run the idea past an engineer in the design dept at the factory (Landrover Ltd) The engineer's comment was that this combination " would throw the Td5 off the road at the first corner" This sort of put me off a bit! I now have a Puma 110 CSW with front and rear antiroll bars and its great - really good! I also have a 1989 V8 LPG 110 pick-up and would like to improve its on the road handling, and I have a front anti roll bar from a 130. what advice and comments can anybody offer? thanks