Oakmaster

Ellen DeGeneres Gives Portia De Rossi $160,000.00 Defender for Christmas Read more: http://www.usmagazine.com/entertainment/news/ellen-degeneres-portia-de-rossi-christmas-surprise-video-2014121#ixzz2qNRzGvNY "In a section of her talk show titled Celebrity Christmas Stories, the 55-year-old comedian shared a heartwarming story of how she managed to surprise her leading lady of six years with a $160,000 keepsake." (so says the Daily Mail!) http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2537420/Moment-Ellen-DeGeneres-surprises-wife-Portia-Rossi-rare-160-000-car.html#ixzz2qJX5ycVf

This is great information, especially confirming the benefits of re-wiring using decent sized cables to maintain the volts at the bulb end of the circuit, but also about fusing the individual circuits. Elsewhere on the forum recently I read a similar post where the writer pointed out the disadvantages of losing ALL your headlight circuits halfway through negotiating a severe corner in total blackness. I have often wondered about the downsides of having the dipped circuit permanently on? Has anybody got any negatives to report?

That (above) is good advice - and there is other good advice on here recently, - relevant to this topic, to summarise the key issues: Run good quality high current cables so that you dont suffer from output debilitating voltage drop at the bulb end, protect the cables when they pass through bulkheads and partitions, and locate the fuses to protect against chaffing cables or other short circuits .

I've had some amazing experiences with road biased tyres, My 300 Tdi 110 CSW ran on BFG Commercials - they were not pretty - they looked like somthing from the 50's - but 67,000 miles (for the best pair - rotated) lots of motorway miles and towing - stopped well in the wet. My late wife's 300 Tdi had Michelin M&S 235 70 16 - 92,000 miles (best pair - rotated) lots of motorway miles, Yes 92,000 miles - unbeliveable - they came with it when we bought it from the main dealer on disco rims at 12,000 on the clock - they didnt look new, but concievably may have been quite new, but even 80,000 is amazing. I did rotate them and this was the best pair, the others went earlier, and I fitted some Scorpion STs (I think) because they did so well in a magazine stopping test (might have been LRO) - they were gone in 20,000 miles, I was gutted. My Puma (and the Td5 before it) have the factory fitment General Grabber TR 235 / 85 / 16 - Ive Just changed the front pair at 42,000 miles - they seem fine, but I completley understand the concept of not Penny pinching on the connection on the connection between 2 tonnes of metal and the tarmac – so very interested to hear other peoples’ opinion on which tyres stops the best on tarmac in the wet. My V8 110 pick-up runs on a set of 255 / 85 / 16 Centennial Mud Campaigners that I've had as the off-road set on 5 different 110s, after 20 + years they are going to get pensioned off soon - not because of wear – there doesn’t seem to be any, but because they are becoming perished – they make the usual daft howling above 60 MPH, stopping is very variable, and ‘directional inputs’ via the steering wheel are treated as suggestions – which may, (or may not) be interpreted as a vague change in heading after a few moments – Great off road

From a Faceache page called: Landrover - Defender http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151757261407173&set=pb.204314977172.-2207520000.1383897858.&type=3&theater http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151599576182173&set=pb.204314977172.-2207520000.1383897888.&type=3&theater

Insurance claims adjuster thought it was inspired.) I think its inspired and second the Simple, effective problem solving.... typical of the true Landie owner! Comment!

Oh Look!! Citroen are going to make the Defender Replacement http://www.carbuyer.co.uk/news/115270/new-citroen-cactus-concept-makes-its-debut?utm_source=taboola&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Citroen Globalisation

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-09-06/nauru-a-land-of-land-rovers/4940640

I'm having a few fuelling problems with my 1955 86” Series One - There seems to be a bit of sediment in the bottom of the tank. It seems to be silvery in colour and looks like slit of galvanised iron filings. I wonder if there was once some sort of gauze strainer round the bottom of the pick-up pipe? Could this be added back? Has it disintegrated and is now the source of the debris? There is an additional small paper filter we’ve added between the Fuel Pump and the carb, but the sedimenter and the carb keep getting full of crud. Any advice as to how to tackle this problem would be greatly appreciated. Is there any possibility that lead replacement additive, or some other fuel additive could be reacting with the tank lining to precipitate this crud? Thanks

I assume you must have seen this? http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=539478576121851

LRO Subscription What is that ‘thing’ that came free with the latest edition of LRO – It’s a black fabric tube. I have looked inside the magazine but didn’t spot anything that would enlighten me – I'm sure somebody on here will know! I used to subscribe up until they printed a review of wheel braces, which they must have re-used from a sister publication because none of the fitted a defender. Anyway a new subscription was a surprise birthday present – though there is no sign of the ‘free Gift’ Socket set that is supposed to accompany the subscription. No Suprises there then!

2 questions - are the perfectly legal, e marked LED sealed units flat on the back (thus avoiding having to drill a larger hole - if you were foitting them elsewhere on the body - like above the door line on a CSW) Has anybody seen a good adaption of an aftermarket DRL to fit in on or around the headlamp finishers on a defender?

Back 15 yrs ago with my 110 12 seat CSW (which the NFU would not consider) I was told by my insurance Co to physically remove one of the rear bench seats to make it a 9 seater - then they were happy, - Then with the 300 Tdi 110 12 seat CSW that followed (after my wife did £30Ks worth of damage to a house - how many women do you know who have written-off 2 defenders? To be fair neither incident was her fault) With the 300 Tdi 110 12 seat that followed (great truck – 135,000 miles still in the family – no major traumas) The insurers (may have been Churchill back then) simply asked that I write to them and state I would never carry more than 8 passengers. 8 or 9 it used to vary between insurance companies – its enough for 2 families usually, (unlike the Puma) There are two key issues: Whatever you agree with the insurance company – Put it in Writing, and Make Sure They write back and confirm it – Keep copies of all correspondence – and attach it to your insurance documents, make copies of all of this and keep them in 2 separate safe places. Don’t Ever carry more people than the number you have agreed with your insurance company. - its easy when you are young and daft – we once got 9 (that’s NINE) people in (and on the roof) of a mini coming back from a party – the journey included driving over a pedestrian suspension bridge, then buoyed-up by this we went to a motorway service station for a fry-up (by the service entrance) and drove over the pedestrian bridge there! - as I say – Young and daft! If you had an accident with more people than you are insured for – your insurance would be invalid – and the civil claims in the event of death or serious injuries could run into millions – for which you would be personally liable. Sorry to be a bit negative – On the bright side owning a Land-Rover is a lifestyle choice which will expose you to the whole gamut of emotional experiences for deep joy to total depression – I have or have had, 17 land-Rovers

See my comments under: Puma Tdci wont start same fault - 5 times! Lovely vehicle - such a shame they didnt build it to an acceptable standard (or repair it properly under warranty with a decent relay socket) I did have a whole raft of problems with my Td5 too - including a replacement Transfer box at 10,000 miles

Swallowed my pride and summoned the Man in the Yellow Van - explained exactly what the problem was - and he was beaten for a while - But eventually it was fixed, and it was a crappy conection in the relay holder (which the main dealer didnt fix - 3 times) So we have now marked the relay, and have a part number ++08475 1C I assume its a pretty standard part an there will be quality equvelents available at a resonable price (and since the relay wasnt the proplem no great hurry to buy a spare) I'd tell you which relay it was but the Man in the Yellow Van kindly?? re-ordered them to "make it easier to get at" At least it starts now - been in some pretty remotre areas this afternoon. Thanks for all the words of wisdom cheers

Tried wiggling relays and so - no joy, can anybody identify which relay it is that is causing the problem another symptom (and this was the case on previous occasions) is that the temp gauge goes right over to the end stop and stays there anybody give me a good steer on what to do next? cheers

I'll try that - but I want a better long term cure - to make mattters worse (I was already late for work) I transfered all my junk into my wifes '89 VW camper And then set off without remembering to disconnect the 240V extension charging the second battery – it was pointed out to me that I was dragging 100 feet of cable when I parked nose into the bay at the shop, this is when I discovered Id lost 1st 2nd and reverse gears, followed shortly by the discovery that I’d forgotten my mobile. If it wasn’t raining Id have taken my series one!

My 09 Puma engine 110 CSW wont start’ It turns over enthusiastically – but wont fire. When this has happened before the problem (apparently) has been something to do with a relay under the driver’s seat. Something to with a poor connection, not necessarily needing a new relay. It has had exactly the same fault 4 times before (when under the balance of the warranty) but due to a mix of circumstances I was never there when it was fixed So I don’t know exactly what relay and what to do about it. Ideally Id like a permanent fix – this never happens at a convenient time! Any help or advice welcome – Cheers

Thanks for all the good advice - I think that stage payments are a sensible way to go - and while location isn't the most important - someone in the west midlands would be good - to keep an eye on progress - and make those key decisions.

A friend of mine would like to have a completely rebuilt Series three or Series two - he is looking hard, and thinking of spending serious money. I know Ive seen adverts for people who do this, but because Its beyond my means they have never registered with me. And are there things we / he should avoid tips or advice welcomed thanks

Washing your wheel rims in a dishwasher can be surprisingly effective if you follow a few simple rules. Most importantly: If you don’t live alone – consider the timing carefully, Its definitely best if your ‘significant other’ is ‘significantly elsewhere’. (a scheduled long haul flight ‘elsewhere’ is best) It will also be a lot easier if you remove the tyres from the rims, and much better if you remove the wire basket trays from the machine. You may need to make a temporary modification if your washer has a spinner under the top basket – you need to reduce / block / plug the feed to the spinner. - If you are a Land-Rover Owner I will not insult you with any advice as to how to stop the out-gushing of liquids – you will be well versed in this already. You will need some spacers – there will vary with the size / model of your dishwasher. I found that Plastic Children’s beakers from Ikea work best. You need to arrange them in a ring on the bottom just outside the perimeter of the bottom spinners rotation and just above, Carefully arrange the first rim to sit on the beakers with the side you want to clean facing down. You can also use bricks - but there is a significant danger of collateral damage if it all goes wrong! Next find some more ‘dishwasher safe’ spacing material (I’ve used 50mm X 30mm timber battens but don't use treated timber) so that you can arrange another rim on top of the lower rim, with the side you want to clean facing up. You need enough room for the top spinner to spin freely. keep on taking the tablets: you really don’t want too much salt in the system, and you need to get it out of the reservoir. I managed to do the opposite the top came off a full salt silo with devastating results. Detergent choice is tricky too - Start with dishwasher powder – and if you use detergents other than low suds you will have soapy foam everywhere, EVERYWHERE! As anyone who thought that washing-up liquid might work in a dishwasher will testify (actually they might be testifying at your wife’s trial for your murder) ENjoy - and be Safe

Might be worth checking the prop UJs I had a 'chirping' noise which was a UJ (on front prop on a 83 stage 1 V8 - list price from LR genuine part was £850 in 1994 - cheaper to buy a new gearbox!)

Is that like cleaning up your alloy wheels in the dishwasher?

Thanks for that – I've learned 3 things from that exercise 1 How to post images 2 That the ‘thing’ is a fuel cooler (who would have guessed?) 3 I could buy a guard for it – great – the opportunity to keep spending never seems to pass me ‘buy’

I failed that elemental test! (Bu55er!) THIS: