monkie

IKEA is just an example. I feel I pay far too much in taxes and fees as it is, and yes you mention parking, just because we are charged for that is no reason to add on even more charges. Yes to improving air quality, but I think there are better ways to do it such as improvements to public transport to temp people to use it. Luckily I haven't lived in a city for years, but if I did and then had to pay another fee to own the car I want is just unacceptable.

Well the one proposed in Bristol would scupper my route from the A37 to IKEA. I use my 110 to collect things sometimes. The way I see it is that I pay road tax, its MOT'd, therefore I should be able to drive it on public roads with no further taxation.

I think he is referring to the clean air zones that are popping up in some cities across the country like mushrooms because a few quid can be made from them.

I can't see them coming down in my opinion. You can't get anything else quite like them and good ones are in demand. I have to admit that I went to see a lovely Td5 110 station wagon. The owner had so much interest he upped the asking price.

I agree, before I start buying new stuff a good check of all the earths and things is in order.

Thank you for the replies, I shall continue my investigations tomorrow. I'm sure Ian said it was a Britpart 100amp alternator.

I'm going to double check the earth's as you say. When ever I've had odd electrical things before it's almost always been an earth!

So, I checked the belt and it was okay. Yes, the wiring to the alternator is uprated too. Took it for a drive today with just the heater on and it manages to go to 13.0V. If I turn the heater off it increases to 14V. Could a duff battery cause this or is the alternator the issue?

The belt is new, but I think maybe the tension has dropped off.

I think Ian told me when I got the engine it is the 100amp aftermarket one and it looks quite new. Surely 100amp should be able to power my lights, heater motor and wipers.

Good points. Thanks chaps. I shall check in the morning.

I've noticed that with head lights, heater blower motor, windscreen wipers all running in the cold, dark and wet winter nights that my voltage starts to drop off whilst driving. My battery is quite old and I've not been doing any long runs so I had suspected the battery might not be in the best health. I've put it on charge for 24hours and it turns the engine over fine and reads just over 12V at rest today (cold day). With the engine running but no electrics on, the voltage reads 13.5V. As soon as I put the heater and head lights on it drops off to 11V. The wiring is all in good order, could this be a duff alternatoror diode pack?

I'd say this is probably the neatest and most satisfactory suggestion

Happy to dig out my old britpart ones from the bin and sell them on to anyone who thinks that...

After reading this thread because I'm very dissatisfied with the Britpart seals I had fitted 2 years ago (can't get my door to shut properly no matter how I adjust hinges, latch or striker plate) I searched for new genuine seals for both front doors on my 110 at a reasonable price. I found Island4x4 selling them at what I think is a reasonable £60 (ex VAT) each for Genuine Land Rover seals. They arrived yesterday so I fitted them. The rubber is much softer, they fit onto the body much better, the rubber seal doesn't sit as proud from the frame as the Brtipart ones - my doors fit much better with no adjustment to them. My conclusion - don't waste your money on the Britpart ones, you may find yourself in a worse off position than when you started.

Let me know when you find a way to do this in a Defender! If water isn't entering significantly, leaving the windows open slightly to aid ventilation does much more than a load of silica bags in my experience

I have in the past with the silica bags that can be recharged, but with only moderate success both in my 110 and my wife's car. They did take up moisture but I think I wasnt using enough of them.

I did exactly as above when I refurbed an LT230 for my Tdi/stumpy combo a few months back. There is plenty of metal to drill and tap.

I've had several Audis as company cars. I have them from new, put about 130,000 miles on them on 3 years and every single one has had a fault between 110,000 and 115,000 miles. Water pump failure happened on 2 of them. As for my current car, a BMW 2018 model, its always in the garage. Horrible horrible horrible car. Can't wait for it to be turned into razor blades.

My BMW has a supposedly automatic dip when the main beams are on. Its so terrible in terms of a delay that must lead to dazzling on coming drivers that I don't use it, I dip the beams manually. I have to say this BMW (company car) has been the most disappointing car I've ever had and I won't be going back.

Hats off to all of you with multiple Land Rovers. I'm only just keeping my head above the water with a job list for just the 1 of them!!

How would you get the repaint done Ralph, DIY or get a paint shop to do it?

Can't you just scrub up and borrow a dress off the Mrs until the job is complete?

Last year I was so consumed by my 200tdi/stumpy project (plus the frustration I had with the bigend bearing) that all the little niggly jobs that contribute to a more comfortable experience like inside lights and rear wiper working got pushed to one side. I think its important to not forget all those little jobs that older Land Rovers need.

Yes, a large number of my 2022 jobs are rolled over from this year!!