monkie

I just spent 15 minutes earlier today rubbing down the back of the rear cross member and painting it black. Just this little job has visually made a big impact on the overall appearance of my 110.

I think its aimed at Escape's post near the top of the thread.

Personally I find that I get dazzled by new SUV type vehicles either behind me or coming towards me on unlit roads on just dipped headlights. I think its a combination of many SUVs having lights that are mounted higher up, closer to eye level than on cars plus lights seem to me to be brighter and brighter on new cars.

Anyone else using this weird in between Christmas and New year period to draw up a list of things to do on your Land Rover? I'll go first No big projects for me this year but sorting out a number of small niggly problems are my jobs for 2022. Now it's winter the heater blower motor has packed up so that is at the top of my list followed by adjusting the control cables. I need to sort out the interior to make it more comfortable with some new carpet and sort out a few leaks in the bulkhead round the throttle cable and bonnet release.

Santa must have got a 2 for 1 deal, my daughter got something similar! My 110 is being used to put all the cardboard and wrapping paper ready for a post Christmas trip to the dump! Happy Christmas

My 19J did a sterling job flying up the M5/M6 from Yeovil to Stoke and back, didn't miss a beat but I had my eye on the EGT gauge. Having said that, my 200Tdi pulls so much better up hills and I trust it more.

Its the vintage. Having an original engine in a 1980s vehicle.

And intercooled which as Snagger says will increase the density of air entering the cylinders.

To illustrate what Snagger is saying, these are britpart pistons that I used in the rebuild (had difficulty sourcing a different brand at the time) following a drive from Somerset to Leicestershire (180ish miles 60 to 70mph all the way) with some weight in the back. My guess is the EGT was too high for a prolonged period hence why I now have gauges to take the guesswork away. The timing was spot on and the injectors were refurbed. This damage was done through working the engine too hard with cheap pistons. On the plus side, they weren't cracked, or if they had cracked the high temperature welded them back up again!

This is what I use. You could make one, but I just went for the off the shelf version.

The bullets are a pain in my opinion, I hate them and got rid of them on my 110. The black wires are earth. The simplest thing is to clean up the bullets and reconnect all the black wires together. In theory the chassis, bulkhead, engine/gearbox and body are earthed by connection to the battery. Relying on this is where a lot of weird electrical problems pop up on land rovers in my experience. To correct this, you can get a simple bus bar off ebay or where ever, connect all the blackwires to it using ring terminals then run something like a 30amp black cable from the bus bar straight to the negative battery terminal. I have 6 of these earthing bus bars on my 110: 1 in each corner plus 1 in the dash to earth relays and dash lights etc then all of these feed back to the sixth bus bar in the battery box that is connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery. I'd say it has made the biggest improvement to the reliability of my electrics.

I don't know about raising compression, but I think intercooling would definitely be a good idea. What I can tell you with this very engine is that I did some good motorway runs in it, prolonged periods at 60-70 mph and the first time I did this it destroyed the piston crowns. I refitted new pistons and then later fitted some gauges to monitor the engine more closely. EGT was most interesting. I found that it didn't take much to raise the EGT to unsafe levels. I would recommend leaving compression and boost alone, fit an intercooler and EGT gauge and keep the speeds down up hills or long trips and it will be fine. I managed to get hold of a Defender spec 200tdi with stumpy gearbox. I fitted that recently and the EGT stays within much safer limits on the tdi even when driving it hard. I do have a soft spot for the 19J but it is a fragile thing.

The best ever mod I made to my headlights was to fit relays, use the Wipac crystals and swap the bulbs to the Philip's night breaker ones. The difference was amazing and still retained the original look without making my 110 look weird (granted that last bit is subjective). The pictures below are of dipped and main beam (photos taken whilst stationary down a farm road)

To be honest, a tiny screw driver if used carefully will do it fine if you are just doing a one off job. I don't think your link was posted correctly, what tool were you looking at?

Always good to hear when a problem has been overcome

Those tools are great, but I figured if the OP doesn't want to buy a new relay base then they won't want to buy any special tools

There are little barbs on the back of the female connectors that allow you to push the connector into the mount then spring out to hold it in place. You need something like a tiny flat head screw driver (the sort you would repair a pair of glasses with) to push the barb back on the connector whilst you pull the wire out.

I think it is wise to leave access. There are some jobs such as swapping the speedo cable and adjusting the handbrake which are possible to do from under the vehicle but easier in my opinion to do from the centre access panel.

I was wondering the same thing.

The OP is asking for advice on how to fix their vehicle, nothing callous about that. Conjecture and speculation on blame from anyone who wasn't there doesn't help. I think it goes without saying that all of us hope those involved are okay regardless of who was in the wrong.

Hang on, I don't like this nose dive the thread is taking. Anyone who didn't witness what happened can't comment on the causes of the incident or where any blame lies. It isn't our place to make any judgements on who is in the right/wrong.

It's much easier and thorough to do this job if you can slacken off each injector union one at a time as someone else cranks the engine over. Even better if you do it whilst the glow plugs are out so there is less strain on the starter motor.

Okay, so just to confirm: 1- you have bled the fuel system as described and confirmed there is air free fuel in the system. 2- you have confirmed that fuel is being pumped to the injectors by slackening the high pressure pipes at the injectors as someone cranks the engine over. 3- you have confirmed 12V is supplied to the glowplugs as someone holds the key in the preheat position. 4- you have removed all 4 glowplugs and energised them to confirm they glow (visually red/yellow hot) uniformly at the tips. Are all 4 points true for your check list?

Repeat the bleeding procedure then remove the high pressure pipes from the injectors and get someone to turn the engine over as you watch for fuel coming out of the pipes.

It is a simple unfused circuit on a pre TDI diesel, but there are still components that can fail, so must be checked as above. The supply from the main positive bus on the starter motor solenoid terminal goes to the ignition switch via a thick brown wire. It goes from the ignition switch to glow plug number 4 via brown with red trace. The ignition switch can fail as can the glowplugs. Be very careful not to accidentally short the glow plug terminals on the cylinder head or you will melt your wires! 1. Compression is good 2. Timing is correct 3. Fuel injectors are supplying fuel 4. Glow plugs are correctly working to pre heat. 5. Starter motor turns engine over fast enough. A 12J is a simple engine. If all of the above are true. It will fire and run.