monkie

You need to check that they are still working. Check for 12V feed at the plugs while someone holds the key in the pre heat position. Then remove each glowplugs and energise them from a 12V supply to check they glow red hot at the tips after around 5 or 6 seconds. Any that fail to glow red hot or don't glow evenly at the tip, renew the whole set of 4 with new quality ones. I use Beru.

Have you verified that the glow plugs are actually working though?

That is a very good point. If you've confirmed there is diesel coming out of the high pressure lines when you crank the engine over (assuming both timing and compression are correct), preheat is a must. The older pre-tdi diesels simply will not start without it.

It will be interesting to see what TD5 owners think. My thoughts as a non TD5 owner are to keep up the regular servicing, get a fault code reader incase you don't have one to help you diagnose anything and then just enjoy driving it.

Are you meaning preventative maintenance beyond routine oil and filter changes?

I removed the performance boost pin and refitted the original using the witness marks as a guide on what position to fit the pin. I left the boost at 1 bar. I want to fit a bigger intercooler. I get what you are saying about driving style but before I de-tuned it it smoked as soon as my right foot touched the pedal.

I assume it passed okay? The thing is though my EGTs were hitting 800'C plus and the smoke was stupid. I now have a clean burn and EGT of around 600 when driving up a steep, long hill

As I understand the MOT tests pre-2008 diesel vehicles for smoke density. I put my 200tdi back to as near factory settings as I could not only for the MOT but also to run in and get used to my 200Tdi before I choose to make any adjustments of my own at a later date.

@Mo Murphy I've been away from home quite a bit with work so not had the chance, but it is on the list for the weekend as I'm also going to replace the rubbish clips on the hoses with some constant tension ones that have deen delivered. I looked out the old stat that I recovered from the engine on the strip down. It is a weird one as from start up the temp raises right up to 100'C then drops to 90 as the stat opens up and sits around 90 depending on hills.

That is sad to read. I used to order things from them as I liked their website. Also when I made a mistake on my part and ordered the wrong fuel tank for my 110 they exchanged it with no fuss whatsoever. I hope they can manage to find a way to return one day.

I saw this too. I took this screenshot of it...

I compiled this from my 110 re-wire which may be of help to you: G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P fused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NR ignition switch to glowplug relay NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed from relay

I think you've potentially wired something up to a purple wire which is a permanent live supply. Can't you just rejoin the wires where they are cut like for like? To answer your question on wiring colours: Rear Fog light = Red with yellow trace Left turn signal = Green with red trace Right Turn signal = Green with white trace Double check the black earth wires too. Many odd electrical problems arise from earthing problems.

There have been some posts about this on here. It affects the stroke of the pump. Compare you new pump with the old one in terms of length of the arm that goes to the Camshaft.

To answer you questions: (1) I would imagine that it will follow the same style as your older pump. Put your thumb over the end to check if there is suction or not. (2) see the bleeding procedure below. (3) you require a 12v supply to the solenoid on the injection pump that is live with the ignition on. This should be a white wire. You will have air in the system from what you have described. You'll need to bleed the system, including the injection pump. It's a stupid system on the pre tdi engines as the fuel return goes via the filter which can put air back in the system. 1. Disonnect the pipe at the fuel filter that supplies fuel from the lift pump. Manually pump the hand lever on the lift pump to confirm that you get a good spurt of fuel. If no fuel, turn the engine a small amount as the Camshaft may be in the wrong position preventing you from manually priming the pump. If this doesn't work the pipe from the fuel tank to the lift pump is full of air, you can turn the engine over a few times to draw fuel from the tank. This will create a mess if the pipe is disconnected from the lift pump so be prepared or place a suitable container to catch the fuel. 2. Once confirmed, reconnect the pipe on the filter, then slacken the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter housing. Pump the lever again until you see a stream of air free diesel trickle out of the bleed screw. Close screw by nipping it up. Don't over do it or you will strip the thread. 3. Turn the ignition on to open the solenoid in the fuel injection pump. Allowing fuel to flow into the injection pump. Undo the small (8mm IIRC) bleed screw on top of the fuel injection pump. Again prime the lift pump manually until you see a stream of air free fuel coming from the bleed screw. Carefully nip up the bleed screw. 4. Again check the bleed point on top of the fuel filter. It should be air free, but double check. Now attempt to start the engine. It may take a few seconds longer than normal as it will have to clear the air out of the high pressure lines to the injectors.

As above. You are looking for the wires with the female connectors coming from a grommet on the bulkhead near the clutch master cylinder IIRC as the wires dissappear into the main loom within the dash to supply the fused power and then send to the light via the connection between the main loom and rear loom. If you have a standard lucas wiring remember that as a rule a wire with a solid colour will be a supply and a wire with a coloured trace will be from a switch to an accessory.

Yes a standard 200tdi one that is looking its age.

Luckily I'm a bit of a hoarder (must be a Land rover thing) and I kept the old one from when I stripped the engine down. I'm going to refit it and see what happens. It does make me a tad anxious as the needle keeps on going towards 100 until it drops back!

Definitely something not right as mine accelerates up hills, steep ones at that. I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it when the timing belt is sorted.

I really think you need to get your cam and pump timing double checked as a starting point from what you have said and go from there. As I understand, it doesn't take much movement either way on pump timing to have profound effects. Only a tooth or so out and it won't even fire. I predict that once you have a new belt fitted with the cam and injection pump timing spot on you will report a big improvement. Keep us up dated. EDIT: one more thing to note is that on my rebuild I replaced the cam shaft. The lobes on the old one were worn. I don't have a comparison as I wasn't running the engine prior to the rebuild but the new Camshaft must have helped my engine out.

The standard pin was given to me in a Fourby packet so I assume the performance pin was from that packet, but I shall be visiting Stegs supplies when I come back to this. What about intercoolers? Can you get away with cheaper front mounted ones off ebay? I don't want to spend many hundreds of pounds on one if I can avoid it.

Indeed, it just seems weird how the temperature goes up, heads to 100 then drops as the thermostat opens. It looked a lot smoother on the same gauge on the 19J (I think that stat opened at a cooler temp IIRC)

I did a search for "tdi boost ring" and came across a conversation involving him plus a link to his shop. I will be sure to check it out. I just want my engine to have had a good running in period and for me to get used to what is normal for it (EGT, boost etc) on my gauges before I start playing with it. On the subject of gauges, I fitted a new waxstat 88 degree thermostat. I've noticed that my coolant temp climbs to almost 100 degrees before I notice the start opens and the temperature settles down to around 90 degrees. I even took it out and did the test in a pan of water on my stove. It does seem to open okay starting at about 90 degrees. Is this normal? My 19J would never get to those temps.

@Jocklandjohn as per my de-tuning thread on the Defender forum, I have got the injection pump back to near standard for running in of the rebuilt engine. I've now taken it on a thorough test drive and I can report good performance and clean running with the injectors I refurbished at home with the ebay Bosch nozzles.

Thank you all. I've taken it on a good test drive up and down hills and on the A303. It pulls magnificently well and is nice and smooth (most likely down to the Glen Coyne rubber mounts and a non rattly gearbox), I'm now just leaving a light haze of smoke behind me rather than a plume of black smoke. Having done some more reading on this, following the running in period I will get a bigger front mounted intercooler, rotate the boost pin and fit a boost ring to improve things a bit more off standard.