101nut

Not much advice but I've seen several footwells replaced by welding them to the floor. I screwed mine back in (as per original) which makes it possible to get the floor out in future to work on the gearbox or clutch without an angle grinder! Bit more work but I think it's better. As for how much to cut out - keep going until you get solid metal! AndyG

Try here instead ... http://www.defra.gov.uk/corporate/consult/...cregs/index.htm AndyG

Protective equipment!! Not familiar with either model you quote but in general you can't go far wrong with a Stihl. Oh, and by the way, did I mention protective equipment? AndyG

They appear to be fairly tight simple loops with a "monkey's paw" or similar locking them. I'd assume the main recovery bridle/strop could be attached with a pruzzick knot. I'd have little concern about the two knots however I see two problems: 1) They are obviously prone to cut damage which would seriously weaken them 2) I'd be concerned about using them in a 4x4 environment unless vehicles had 'soft' attachment points to prevent (1). Generally shackles do the job but that's what we're trying to remove from the equation! I think they'd be useful, even for temporarily joining ropes since they are heavily rated but, as attachments to the vehicle, significant care would be the obvious requirement. AndyG (Not a boy scout ...)

I reckon Telequipment ... who's for the next guess? At least my pair of D83's are stored safely away 'just in case' somewhere warm and dry ... on top of the wardrobe! Perhaps I should eBay 'em? 50MHz, delayed trigger, high quality dust at no extra cost ... very useful for fixing LR ecu's (potentially). AndyG

I've followed this with my "he's talking b*****ks" head on ... then you show me a picture of a couple of bog rolls and well ... stand back in amazement!! Twist it 90 degrees ... that's too rediculously easy for my brain to cope with ... I need a lie down. AndyG

But I seem to remember that the first series or two involved making 'sensible' stuff out of scrap rather than extreme stuff out of planted goodies ... For me it's gone downhill, though the barbed wire necklace (and support) certainly had something going for it ... AndyG

Should still be a 4-speed LT-95 ... AndyG

Sensibly, the inner and outer sills and bottom of the A and B pillars, rear body x-member, rear arches, front inners and footwells. Chassis rear end from foward of the rear axle backwards (if you see what I mean) is liable to be worst. Come to think of it, that doesn't leave a lot! If you're handy with the electric glue and an angle grinder none this is particularly expensive, just very very time consuming ... AndyG Original 1972 Range Rover, with replaced inners, sills, rear x-member ... etc etc etc ... bah!

Bare chassis definitely a 'reasonable' lift for two ... 140Kgs would be my choice in the sweepstake ... AndyG

There is no front diff-lock only the inter-axle diff-lock. I assume this is what you mean and that you have physically checked the the diff-lock is not engaging so I'll skip that bit. On your vehicle (a 1975?) you have a vacuum actuated diff-lock - a pipe from the engine to the knob (switch valve) you mention and a pair of pipes running down to an push/pull actuator bellows on the transfer box - vacuum on one side of the diaphram engages, vacuum on the other disengages. These have a nasy habit of leaking. Initially check all the pipes are on - they don't usually come off or break but check anyway. My approach would be to hop underneath and swap the pipes on the actuator (on the side of the transferbox/diff output housing). If it still doesn't engage (you've swapped the pipes so engaged will be knob down) check the pipes to the actuator have reasonable vacuum - finger over the end is good enough - with no hissing noises anywhere else. No vacuum on either pipe means check further up. If the actuator is hissing when connected chances are the diaphram has broken and the unit needs replacement (about £40). It is a bit of a pain to remove due to access beside the chassis rail but is not too involved. The switches can also leak - if the vacuum is weak at the actuator check for hissing at the switch - if there is they're about £30 to replace unless it's a pipe off but you checked that first didn't you? The diff-lock lock will not illuminate until the diff-lock has engaged so fixing one problem should fix the other. AndyG

Exactly the correct approach to have ... nothing to lose so why bother what others think, suck it and see! AndyG

Is that right? Miller's Diesel Plus used to do diesel. VSP (called something else now I believe) is both lead replacement and octane booster for unleaded petrol. Adding it to super unleaded and running a 10.5:1 V8 on it is lovely, if stupidly expensive AndyG

I've had people swear by them and others ridicule them ... but since you've got it, it isn't going to cost you anything or do you any harm to try it and report back here! Very similar units do help reduce scaling in water and produce both positive (and negative) medicinal effects in both humans and animals but after some years I still haven't seen a plausible explanation of why. Unfortunately most of Ecoflow's own literature is pure pseudo-science marketing babble so doesn't help. Perhaps if they said 'if it works we have no idea why' I'd believe them more! I tested/reviewed another 'gizmo' which people were ridiculing ... but I could generate demonstrable (and repeatable) results with it fitted. Unfortunately I still can't specify whether it lived up to the claims of the device, just that it was affecting the burn in my particular engine with its particular state of tune in some way. The one conclusion I have reached with most of the 'fuel saving' devices is that in an older engine results are generally more significant than in a highly controlled modern engine where any change (positive or negative) can potentially be masked by automatic counteraction or compensation by the ecu. AndyG

Mine 'look' like blue Lucas/Luminition/whatever ones ... just apparently made of plasticine! AndyG

Good mod on a S111 with a one-piece screen as well. One result is that when a wheelbox decides to throw it's toys out of the pram it makes for an interesting piece of wiper-based knitting ... guess how I know! AndyG

I don't want 'bling', I want good and reliable and vfm. I paid about £25 for a set of 8mm silicons and within a few months they're shorting all over the place. They still look and feel good, the boots appear to seal pretty well ... they just don't seem to insulate! Hence I want a set that will do their job without breaking the bank. Bearing in mind I'm now spending more money to replace a useless £25 set, lobbing out £45 on a set which will last longer than a year and won't suffer from the wet seems a good deal ... AndyG

7mm Bosch set from Halfrauds £32 !!! Bought a set anyway ... may well try the 8mm US set if I decide my wallet can stand it. AndyG

Trouble is the American ones work out at about £45 delivered ... neither here nor there on price and the exchange rate is currently in our favour. All I know is the other Pertronix ignition stuff maybe cheap but it's fairly bomb-proof. Having said that, if the Bosch ones are that cheap from Halfrauds I'll take a punt at them first. I usually avoid that place because I value my wallet! AndyG

Anyone used HT leads from Retro Rockets (www.vintageperformance.com)? They do Pertronics ignition stuff which is pretty good and relatively cheap. I want a set of plug leads but cant tell whether theirs are up to Magnecour spec or if they're standard £25 aftermarket silicons ... AndyG

"We wish you a merry Christmas. We wish you a merry Christmas ..." etc etc I'll just go get my humbugs out ... AndyG

At last - something potentially worth watching on the telly again that isn't celebrity-x-factored-dancing-hairdresser-from-hell related. Just hope Hammy's all recovered now. AndyG

Anvils are from any good engineers, hernia-weights are available everywhere AndyG

Have a look at eBay for second hand ones. They usually fetch silly prices but I got a Peli 1520 from Switzerland for roughly half price ... AndyG

My favourite 'wield' is either a heavy lumphammer or a 16lb sledge. Most important thing is not how you hit it or what you hit it with but that you have a decent fitting 'press tool' and a very solid base to support the radius arm or whatever. An old heavy anvil I aquired (a bit under 1 hernia-weight in old money) works well, haven't had a Range Rover bush - or A-Frame joint - defeat me yet! AndyG