101nut

Cleaning and "removing the surface of" may look similar but are not neccesarily the same. A nice strong solution of sulphuric acid cleans metal parts ... unless you pickle them too long and they dissolve. Or concentrated chilli oil ... which I've found can etch stainless steel knives AndyG

Yep, the 1:50K are a bit limited sometimes ... cost me enough for them! AndyG

That is correct - non-resistive with resistive which ever way around. I used Fastlane Auto (on the web) - good leads at a good price. In my experience much better than Halfrauds Bosch and they replaced a dodgy set of Lucas which were no longer recommended as a replacement by my local Lucas dealer due to too many complaints! I think the Lucas had better sealing plug caps but you can't have everything without spending £stupid. AndyG

4-doors have heavy doors? pah! Now 2-Doors mate, they build the biceps! AndyG ... who's got to replace both 2-door sets of hinges

Been there with a three-bolt box. I have a theory that some aftermarket arms 'relax' on the splines and as they become lose they wear the shaft splines, after that you've got no hope of keeping them tight, even (in my experience) with a new arm. You could try a new arm but clean the shaft splines well and make sure they are straight - a shoulder worn into them high up near the box will not allow the new arm to seat fully. If you're happy apply a little loctite and do the thing up F. T. followed by the usual locktab turned over etc. I also ground out the top 1/16" or so of the splines to form a clean bevel to make sure the arm slid on far enough when tightened. If that lot doesn't work then it's certainly tome for a new box ... AndyG

Shouldn't be rot as the inners were replaced not-so-long ago ... but there is the bolt fixing at the rear of the box-section IIRC which could be leaking through by capilliary action ... looks like wing off this weekend! AndyG

Exactly at the title ... my Range Rover gets water into the driver's footwell when it rains - not driven so not road splash - and I can't find the point of entry. I thought it was the windscreen seal where the gutter helpfully empties onto it but liberal quantities of silicon have not cured it. I've tried a 'creeping crack cure' around most of the windscreen rubber to glass join but it seems fairly solid with no obvious leak points drawing the fluid in. Without taking the scuttle pannel off, is there a joint under it to the bulkheak that could leak or is the bulkhead a panel with the 'windscreen wiper housing' section applied to it so should be watertight? It is only a dribble running down the corner of the footwell but I know it's going to rust either where it's getting in or at the base of the A pillar in the footwell (again) and having just replaced the floor I don't want that job again for another 30 years! Any ideas? AndyG

ABS on a 1980 RR? Don't know the correct answer apart from the obvious metric/imperial fittings swap but you'll be remaking pipes anyway. AndyG

... or hold the missus by the ankles and swing her around your head until dry ... AndyG

Not a grey area at all, just a case of whether you choose to risk it. Unbraked trailers need a chain or similar attachment to keep the nose off the ground in the event of hitch failure (the grey area here is whether a skid under the hitch does the job). A braked trailer must have a breakaway cable that activates the brakes if there is hitch failure. AndyG

I don't quite understand where LRM currently stand in all of this. Whether they accept liability or not is irrelevant - surely it should currently be the insurance company covering the event dealing with the claim not LRM themselves ... assuming they were insured correctly of course. AndyG

So nice of you to perform slapstick for your friends amusment Fantastic and somewhat comedic ... says he wiping tears from his eyes AndyG

Sacrificial anode will only work if the whole door is wet all the time ... AndyG

And I bet as always they only use 5 stud hubs rather than 6 ... AndyG

And as far as I am aware no waiver can cover unreasonable or incompetent behaviour. If the problem was a result of irresponsible or reckless actions you have a case, however if the marshall was taking reasonable and justifiable action for the situation then there is no claim. AndyG

Oh, and by the way he isn't Rolf Harris's brother! AndyG

Avoid 'easy outs' or similar as they are generally carp, break and give you more grief. You could try the snap-on/irwin type removers which are a like a steeply ground left-hand 'drill' which grips the remnants of the bolt and will attempt to unscrew it. Because they are siezed solid this will probably fail and you'll swear. At this point find a nut that fits snugly over what's left of the bolt and weld the the stud to the nut with a good MIG blast. Let it set then unscrew the 'bolt' which you've just made ... If it shears off you've lost nothing but it'll be more likely to work as the heat helps break the corrosion as well. There's a demo of this somewhere by Mike Rogers but I can't recall the link ... hang on try this ... stud removal AndyG

And repeat after me ... 'Vices are not meant for pressing in bushes'. Buy another vice and a cheapo press from Machine Mart or wherever ... AndyG

Make that two... or is it an echo 'Genuine' blue polybushes on my '72 Range Rover have behaved well so far (about 18 months) ... got fed up smacking the radius arm bushes out with a sledgehammer every year so decided on something different! AndyG

It used to be an accepted practice as a fire marshall to run to an accident with the powder extinguisher basically upside down. When you got there and flipped it right side up to let it off it was less likely to be packed. Oh and the quote I got from somebody just before the MSA finally withdrew BCF was that to put out a fuel fire on average you need 9 litres of AFFF where 1 of BCF would do ... That's assuming the AFFF isn't frozen and that it's a good quality extinguisher that hasn't internally corroded ... AndyG

Just a comment that I don't currently have either MJ or MS fitted but this thread is fascinating and making my wallet-finger itch AndyG

Never tried them though have been tempted. I read somewhere that B&D were the biggest producer of drills in the world ... so they must be getting something right! AndyG

Another issue is pilot holes. Technically the pilot should not be significantly larger than the size of the web (the 'horizontal' tip) of the drill to follow. More often than not people complain about blunt drills but it's because they're allowed to 'rub' on the job which heats then blunts them very quickly rather than applying the correct pressure to get them to cut cleanly. I bought a set of screwfix HSS drills ages ago and have been ok - certainly not significantly worse than a set of Dormers. Oh, and according to my irate-engineer-type-house-mate a drilling machine drives a drill which when it breaks becomes a bit of a drill ... bleedin' woodworkers use bits, engineers use drills. Unfortunately I'm really a chippy so I get told off a lot! AndyG

Or even a bigger hex since it's a socket-head bolt! I read somewhere recently that a large enough torx bit smacked into the bolt head works better than an oversize hex ... not tried it myself though AndyG

Method: Drain most of oil out of swivels (if there is any!), drive to MOT and have MOT done, fill swivels. What leaky swivels at MOT? AndyG