MudAllOverIt

Have already sent a very polite PM The standard size that fits most winches with 9" drums ain't no use -- I need something this size: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...ost&p=28005

Anyone know a good source for an aluminium or stainless steel hawse fairlead for Superwinch H14? Wire's coming off and synthetic's going on....

Another vote for Brunel Performance. Installed their uprated standard size intercooler yesterday and even without any fuelling tweaks there's a signifcant improvement in performance. Well pleased Originally intended to buy from AlliSport but no-one would answer their phone when I tried to speak to them on Tuesday and Wednesday last week. Left messages but no-one got back to me and in the process of looking elsewhere I made contact with Jon at Brunel and he was as good as his word, shipping the intercooler out exactly when he said he would.

Kev -- any issues with installing two radios in the bottom bank? Clearance to the rear of the upper radio seems the obvious snafu. I'm going to try to shoehorn in a Radio/CD, Midland Excel 48 Multi CB and a bank of seven Carling switches. It will all fit with the Radio/CD in the lower bottom bank, Carling switches in upper bottom bank and CB in the top bank but is going to require very very careful placement of thje Carling switches to ensure they don't foul the CB. Mind you I've got enough bits left from the original but now broken console front panel (thanks for getting the replacement out so quick) to do a trial fit...

Oh yes FWIW we ran 215/75-r15 BFG muds on OE steel wheels when we had the Freelander and the combination worked well. BFG ATs in the same size would be a good option too. For 16" rims 215/70-r16 or 225/70-r16 will fit no problem. You can fit 225/75-R16s onto OE 16" alloys but most people who have tried this size report that they foul unless a suspension lift is also fitted. Quite a few of the MAD FL guys run with 215r15 (i.e. 215/80-r15) Colway C-Trax Muds or ATs on OE steels both of which work really well on the FL1 IMHO -- the slightly taller sidewall results in a small but worthwhile increase in ground clearance and these tyres have decent performance off-road. HTH

MM4x4 are £104 + VAT which is more-or-less what everyone else -- except Rimmers -- are asking.

I was about to say a definite no but went back to check the Rimmer price and £337 _is_ what they quote for BTP2275 which is the Rad only. But the Rimmer price for Rad + Intercooler (PFI100041) is £346 (vs Paddock £230) which makes me wonder if the Rimmer Rad only price is wrong Regardless will get from Paddok or someone like MM4x4...

Radiator in our 300Tdi is leaking like a sieve and have just priced up a replacement (radiator only, no intercooler): Rimmers -- £337 inc VAT Paddocks -- £120 inc VAT WTF Are the Rimmer ones gold plated or are the Paddock ones made from chocolate

I think it was me that got the last of his SPSTs...

In my case fabrication is just not on -- it's just something I'm no good at. Never been a lack of enthusiam of my part, just a complete lack of ability So I don't have any problems with the bolt-on approach -- it's the only sensible way I can mod our 90. But I do make a point of only adding things we actually need and also I choose very carefully who I'll buy from. These days almost all the stuff I buy is from smaller suppliers who more often than not have invested their own time and money to develop stuff that is actually useful and works. Mud UK, X-Eng (ony 2-off X-caps so far if you're reading this Si ), Cheviot 4x4 in the recent past. For the stuff that'll need done next year (re-con g/b looming and some suspension work) I'll use bits from Ashcroft and Gwyn Lewis. Me too. It's generally the case that the best offroaders I know have the least bling trucks

Ah, OK! Cheers,

Will give that a go too. Radiator in the 300Tdi has just started to leak like a sieve so just started the process of stripping it out to fit a new rad and probably an uprated intercooler while it's all out. Only had the 300Tdi for a couple of years and just starting to get into working on it properly now and was totally bamboozled when I came to disconnect the bottom hose at the weekend. Couldn't figure out how to get to it I'm not exactly the quickest on the block sometimes with this sort of stuff but generally get there eventually... Any advantage in fitting the jubilee clip for the bottom hose so it can be done/undone from underneath?

Ah, OK! My bad -- as the people with Rock Lights say...

Are you sure that isn't "Rack Light"? Just FWIW I get my Carling Tech switches from a guy in US. Switches are $8, actuators (good selection) $3. $12 shipping to UK will cover a decent sized parcel e.g. 12 switches, 12 actuators and a couple of actuator removal tools and no duty or VAT to pay so far!

Gwyn Lewis? They're OE arms with crank and castor correction and should be much stronger than the Scorpion or QT efforts. Very reasonably priced if I remember right. Edited to add link http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page18.html

Chipping the TD4 is a common mod and lots of people do it. FWIW I can personally recommend http://www.just4freelanders.com/ Unlike some Harvey owns and runs Freelanders and uses the stuff he sells in his own motors...

That link's the dog's danglies. Our 90 is ex utility with H14 and full hydraulic system including auxiliary, internal and wing mounted controls etc and so far I'd only been able to find the manual for the PTO H14 installation -- so thanks for posting that While it's easy enough to figure out how to work it it's another thing entirely when you're as thick as I am to figure out what to do when it's needing a it of TLC

Croytec also have a reasonable selection of Carling Technologies Contura II switches available but don't sell the mounting brackets -- I found a UK source for the mounting brackets here: Power Store Contura II Switches Link

I got a Mud console delivered during the week. Will be fitting ARBs soon and I'm needing somewhere to put the extra switches, tidy up the switches I already have and sort out the CB and radio/cassette which are lashed to the dash at the moment The Mud console's a nice piece of kit -- more versatile and less than half the price of the "competition" Just FWIW I found a guy in the US who can supply small quantities of Carling Technology Contura II switches (these are the switches supplied with ARBs) at a good price and he's got a very wide range of actuators (the bit on the front with the switch legend) available. The guy's called Shane Linse, see copy of e-mail below I got from him:

It'll drive no problem at all. Under normal conditions the drive in a Freelander is split 90%/10% front/back so it's nearly front wheel drive anyway I know a few folks who have run FL's in this condition for extended periods -- myself included after wrecking the viscous coupling off-road The only thing you might notice is a slight improvement in fuel consumption. It shouldn't make any difference at all to tyre wear UNLESS you've got a very early Freelander with the slightly incorrect IRD/read diff ratios which was renowed for causing castellation of the rear tyres. This was corrected quite early in production with IIRC a slight change to the rear diff ratio.

The flange on the EGR value is quite thick so if the bolts are really stuck and/or the heads are knackered you can get away with cutting the bolt heads off and fitting a blanking plate and gasket to the remains of the bolts with a couple of nuts and spring washers. Getting to the bolts is bit fiddly but not too difficult with a Junior hacksaw and lots of swearing I did this as a temporary measure about a year and a half ago meaing to drill the bolt remains out and re-tap the holes but I never got round to it. No problem at all so far -- probably just leave it is as it is now

Currently running 285/75-R16 Grizzly Claws which I'm more than happy with. Started off with them on standard LR Freestyle alloys which resulted in a turning circle of about 5 miles Changed to 8x16 modulars which I got from D4x4 earlier this year which improved the situation but not as much as I hoped. For the record the D4x4 modulars are 10mm offset (= approx 4.3 inch backspace). What I'm after are wheels with an approx -12mm offset (= approx 3.5 in backspace). It just so happens that this is what you get with standard Mach 5 8x16s. Does anyone know if there are any less expensive 8x16 wheels available off the shelf with an approx -0.5 inch offset (= 3.5 inch backspace)? (BTW spacers aren't an option in this case because they're not allowed in some RTVs up here.) Cheers,

There was a spate of this sort of problem with a batch of early 2004 MY TD4 Freelanders -- from memory it was caused by problems with the mass airflow sensor but I'm not 100% sure about this as there also other performance problems (which might be the MAF issue I'm thinking of) and injector wiring loom issues around the same time. I'm fairly certain there's a technical bulletin on the TD4 fuel consumption issue...

Organised by West Argyll 4x4, with kind permission of West Argyll Forest Commission Lochgilphead Forest Discovery, 18/19 November TWO OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE: 1. Guided track drive with some moderately difficult terrain -- note that some scratching or damage is possible Vehicle should preferably be equipped with a minimum of good all terrain or mud terrain tyres. This option is available on Saturday, Sunday or both days. Our guide vehicles carry all recovery equipment, which may be required. 2. New to off-roading or own a shiny 4x4 and want to keep it that way You can also join the weekend but your drive will be over different routes and in the company of like-minded owners. The drive for this option will not be a boring gravel forest road outing. Special permission has been given to allow access at some part of your drive to explore the Ardcastle Forest in addition to the huge Kilmichael Forest base. You will drive our mountain route and many other superb tracks over the weekend accompanied by one of our guide vehicles. This is a superb family weekend and with a little care no damage of any kind will be sustained. COST: (applicable to both options, payable on the day at the meeting point) One day: £20.00 per vehicle Two days: £35.00 per vehicle There will be a night drive on Saturday which is open to all vehicles and begins Saturday evening 8.30pm and will finish approx 11.00pm. All drives are run under the supervision of experienced club members. The event meeting point is the forest entry at Birdfield Wood on the A83. This will be clearly signposted on the day. Birdfield Wood is 1.5 miles beyond Minard, driving towards Lochgilphead. Turn in at the cottage with the St Andrews flag, follow track uphill until you reach our quarry control point. Please aim to arrive no later than 9.30am both days. Please drive slowly when passing the cottages at entry. The meeting point grid reference for all GPS buffs reads NR 96202-94560 FOR FURTHER DETAILS PLEASE CONTACT: Myself via the forum by PM or e-mail OR IAN HAMILTON either by e-mail: ianon16@tiscali.co.uk, MOBILE: 07785 716928 (between 9am & 5pm) OR 01698 860215 (after 6pm) Proceeds from this event, as with all past events, will be donated to a local charity. Details of the charity will be agreed with Argyll 4x4 club and the Argyll Forestry management team. For the avoidance of doubt please note that this event is not related in any way to the Argyll Forest Challenge which is a completely different type of event organised by a completely different bunch of people. On the other hand don't assume, however, that the Lochgilphead Forest Discovery is a namby-pamby drive on gravel tracks -- it ain't

Can't rely on the pics I know but the Craddock/Paddock pictured on their web sites ones look identical to the 8x16 modulars I got from D4x4 earlier this year and they were "standard" (3.5") offset. If there are 8x16 modulars out there with an inch bigger offset I want a set NOW (NB 8x16 modulars with an extra inch offset would be the same offset as standard 8x16 Mach 5s)