CwazyWabbit
-
Posts
7,222 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
30
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
-
-
.....
Thanks, it only took me six months.....
I notice you said earlier on in the thread you were going to do them in the summer, it's not really your fault that summer didn't arrive this year till last weekend.... sounds like you met your stated schedule
-
....
To all you petrol heads, I sorry to tall you retro fitting a petrol engine doesn't get you off the LEZ as they go by the engine it had when registered. As of the 3th Jan 2012 it will be £100 a day to go in the LE Zone which is basically within the M25.
The good news this works both ways so get your selves a petrol landy and put a diesel in it and your still good for London.
....
I'd be very surprised if that was true, especially as one of the options on the LEZ site for compliance is to change the engine or to convert to a gas engine with spark ignition. This sounds like confusion over the body type, which is taken as what it was built as.
BTW I like your trailer, it's nice to see one with a proper chassis
Probably worked out quite cost effective to when you consider how much you would pay for a covered trailer. -
I beleive there are changes afoot that mean it will be sometime soon. Mines been like that for some time (years), but had no play till recently (got a new one to fit at the weekend). As you say, best to change it though.
I didn't know about proposed changes, cheers for the heads up
-
I don't think the rubber gaiter is an MOT failure, if there is excessive play in the ball and socket joint then you'll fail and of course the damaged gaiter will accelerate that. Mine passed it's MOT with a very obvious split (but no play), the MOT guy definitely saw it as I watched the whole test and saw him give it a good look.
-
Result
I'm fairly certain your old TD won't leak sat in the garage if you swap tubes -
Although the tube erc8980 is around a fiver
-
-
Just take some tools to the pickup point and fit the bloody thing, its only a 5 minute job...
..... if you strip down your truck a bit before the journey ...
-
There's also usually a small countersunk screw or two holding the drum on, these can be a pig to get off if not touched for a while!
I clean forgot about that, obviously mine wasn't a bugger to undo or I'd have remembered
Probably due to the amount of oil that had been sprayed about from the failed output seal I guess.... -
Would the addition of some sort of cush drive be beneficial then?
-
I believe he is in Farnham in Surrey....
-
You might need to back them off, there is an adjuster bolt at the bottom of the back plate.
-
Is there any spare splining on the inside of the LT230 input gear? If it's up to taking the input torque from the gearbox it should be up to siphoning a bit of it back out the other end.
There's no spare splining on mine when mated to the r380...
I suppose you could shorten the gearbox output shaft.... the splines are missing from the end of my output shaft anyway from before it had the cross drilled input gear in the transfer box.
The PTO Splines don't look that weedy though, and of course the increased diameter at that location would reduce the pressure placed upon them.
-
I was thinking the same, plus you will get people registering just to download them eating the bandwidth up even quicker
-
Maybe it has straight panels?
-
.... door seals let in water.....
-
I was trying to hint that the test the RAC bloke did with the compressor didn't mean anything. I think the breather is meant to stop a vacuum in the tank, not stop positive pressure. Otherwise there would be no need of a valve surely? and without a valve fuel would leak out when going round corners or rolling over. If you are getting positive pressure in the tank it has to be coming from somewhere....
-
yes truck runs fine when i removed fuel cap, rac took pipes off filter tub and said everythings fine in that department, took the pipe off the fuel lift pump and fuel was trickling out, so he put is air line on the pipe and blowed the fuel back to the tank, remove air line and fuel gushed out , and asked me to remove fuel cap and it blowed off out of my hand and he said that's the problem tank pressuring dd
The filler cap has a valve in it (I guess to stop fuel leaking out), surely normally a tank experiences negative pressure due to you using fuel creating a vacuum. Would connecting a compressor to the fuel line not just shut the valve and pressurise the tank? That not being a fault but correct operation?
EDIT: Do you get the same woosh when you open the tank after you get this problem(without an RAC man)? If so you may have a hole in your boost diaphragm allowing air to pressurise your tank.
-
Well it has to be easier to remove the OD to rule it out than replacing the main clutch! So if I was you I'd take that route to start with seeing as people seem to be at a loss to explain your judder.
EDIT: Posts crossed in the ether, I'm not that much of a plank.... most of the time
-
They look impressive, do you have any photos showing the area they are illuminating?
-
That is a really neat solution
Is the only mod required to the donor casting to remove that web to clear the hand brake drum?Will you just remove the access plate to fill it with oil?
-
Yup
0.6mmIts not 6mm
Nige
Mega squirt is good ... but not THAT good!
-
I think the Insurer doesnt care. My model clause for this would be "If no data received, premium goes to full." bear in mind this is an expensive insurance with discount for behaving well. Not behaving well effects the level of discount. if you cant prove that you are behaving well, heres your giant insurance bill sir.....
And whats the betting that if you remove it, when you have an incident the insurance is invalid?
Thats how I would write it, as the insurer.
I was thinking more along the lines of only turning the blockers on when you were doing something considered 'bad' like driving at night, that way they would have some data, but only data of you being a nice low risk driver. They couldn't say anything about not recieving data all the time as both GPS and GPRS don't work 100% of the time.
Anyway I'm getting a bit off topic here so I'll apologise and shut up
-
If Your prepared to have a "Smart Car" tracker fitted, so they can tell if you are a hooligan or drive late at night, and consequently measure their risk, co-op have a good deal http://www.co-operat...e/Insurance-Car
Its pretty invasive tho, I would have paid a LOT more when I was younger if one had been fitted
Well I know it's not playing the game but a taking a leaf out of the tea leafs books and using gps & gsm blockers would probably make that ineffective. You could check if it was working via the 'online dashboard' so surely it's not going to be around too long.
Probably worked out quite cost effective to when you consider how much you would pay for a covered trailer.
Galvernised chassis
in Discovery Forum
Posted
http://www.colvilleslandrovers.nl/index.html
Appears he did a mini first...
http://www.minifinity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69841&start=0