orangebean

Not exactly new- a bit of eBog digging shows that he bought it in mid May for £165. It was then described as: "hi thanks for looking this is a 300 tdi turbo which i bought brand new, I was lead to believe that my original one was at fault so bought this and fitted it for all of an hour but found that it was a pipe that was faulty it has sat in my garage for about 7 months the outer body has slight surface rust but the inside is very clean and as it should be, it was bought for a discovery but believe it will fit any 300 tdi all pipes and brackets are on it"

Will second the view on Bronco's. Mine are delaminating happily and the truck's been parked up for 6 months . They were fine when I parked it...

Fair bit of positive eBog feedback on these. Of course it doesn't say how long they last...

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll put the small plate into the RH cover to (partially) cover the breather and not bother with the LH one. Seems like the best compromise!

Patience is my middle name (actually it's not- it's David) waiting patiently...

Nige I'll take a punt (as I PM'd earlier) as it seems like a fair bet. M Just give me first/ second/ 3rd dibs xx

I might be- but not sure. The plates would stop that... but

Race you to it on eBog then- good thing it's not an auction

V8 Rocker Covers- mystery tin plates! Finally on the last legs of the 3.5 Vitesse efi rebuild. Supplied with the "rebuilt" engine which I've rebuilt again were a pretty pair of powder coated rocker covers. The manky covers on the old 3.5 efi engine had a tin plate fixed inside each- one half plate, held in with 4 screws and in the other, a full-length plate held in with 8. The new covers have none, but have pre-drilled holes where the plates could mount with a bit of tweaking. What purpose, if any, do the plates serve? They seem kind of irrelevant, but, no doubt, have some arcane purpose to do with moon phase vapour adjustment or something. I'm tempted to leave them out but will bow to the considerably greater experience out there for advice. Thanks in advance Edit- actually quite a long winded question, but hopefully won't require a long answer

Spookily enough I was looking at the same £15 Smith and Allan stuff on eBog today. With a 230 and a couple of axles to fill it seemed a reasonable price, conducive to very frequent changes which should outweigh/ cost the "quality" alternatives. So, if yours doesnt destroy itself after 50 miles, that's the route I'll take

Prob need some kind of solvent. I've used this with good results. The traditional gasket softeners/ cleaners like this are great for getting rid of the dreaded red hermetite but don't do much with silicon based stuff. HTH

I find the AA pretty good myself. As posted above, they're a little pricey, but cover the whole family fleet of truck, campervan, 2 cars and motorbike all of which have enjoyed the fuel saving long distance Relay service at one time or another. My pic says it all really

That's what I feared. Another thing to throw money at. If you hadn't already taken the nick Nige then this really would be the Hybrid from Hell. 6 months into owning it and the furthest it's travelled is on the back of an AA recovery truck... Oh well, off to identify the diff and heading for the Wanted section, but still chanting the mantra "It's got a totally solid chassis, all of the body panels are new and it's got bills to prove that everything else has been refurbed" I'm about 20 seconds from slinging this on eBog as another one of those unfinished projects...

On the allegedly rebuilt rear RR diff on my hybrid there is 1-2 mm of lateral play on the input shaft. Whilst engineering sense says there should be none, maybe LR built in some kind of tolerance?! Assuming it's not meant to be like that, what are my chances of just tightening up the centre nut to reduce the play? I've a horrible feeling there's a rebuild/ replacement diff on the horizon and am hoping that's not the case cos I'd quite like to actually drive the thing one day and the engine/ gearbox rebuild has already taken forever. It's that low point in any project where you wonder why you started in the first place...

So, does this look like an appropriate combination? Spotted just now opposite my house and yes, it really is loaded up with camping gear.

Works straight away for me- is that because I'm in Devon or using Firefox? Popping off to do some testing... Sorry- even bored myself to sleep there

Given that his last 2 sales were a muck spreader and a plucking machine, this has to be the ultimate marriage of the two...

I had the same advisory for the last 5 years of a worn suspension bush on my VR6- this year it wasn't even mentioned!

No need to exercise my drawing skills- the mystery is solved thanks to Bob at J and P who has emailed me the attached setup information. HfH, Quagmire and nicksmelly your help is much appreciated Mark CS7000-JP5984.pdf

Thanks Nige- the pics were the best of a bad lot as I'm not allowed to take any digi cam into the oily fingerprinty environment that is the barn except a 10 year old kodak that even the kids won't use I'll knock up a couple of quick sketches of the J & P setup which (falling back on my 35 year ago Tech Drawing O level) will hopefully explain the layout better. I've seen your reference before to Mr Eales welded vernier setup and can understand exactly where he's coming from More to follow Mark

Quag- After a REALLY sh!!ty day trying to remove 2 dowels from a timing case and failing dismally, thanks for the Mr Bean- I'd honestly never spotted/ thought about that interpretation of the nick- and I've used it in various places for ever! I'll have a dig around the V8 forum and again, thanks for cheering me up

Update: I'm still looking for some information on how J & P intended the markings to be aligned. There must be someone out there who's fitted this camchain set to a V8 from new and can enlighten me? I've emailed J & P but no reply.

Well, from where I'm sitting, having driven mine all of 30 miles to the back of a recovery truck 5 months ago, don't despair! At least yours is running...

Thanks Nige- it's which markings are actually 0/0 that are confusing me. On standard gears I'd just set TDC and point the two dots together. These ones have too many options! After months of cleaning and replacing bits to make my own version of V8 prawn I've got to the point of my own mental block over this. At least I'm past the "just eBog the whole thing as an unfinished project" though. That was last Tuesday!

Hoping there's someone out there who can explain the markings on my J & P timing gear set. The crank sprocket has 2 sets of markings, one on the teeth face and one on the hub face (see pic (attached) which seem to differ (offset to each other) by 2. The cam sprocket has a single dot on the tooth face. The duplex chain has a split link in it. Whilst I can set the cam timing correctly with a dial gauge and degree disk using random slots and teeth it would be nice to understand what the markings mean and achieve at least an approximation of what the manufacturer intended! Thanks Mark