orangebean

Says more about me than I would want to make public...

Found this pic from the 1990's. Hopefully this might inspire people to dig back and post "My first Land Rover" or maybe not....

It's listed as an aviation part so possibly suitable for fitting on Concorde. If that's the case, the Government will make up the difference in purchase price for the lucky buyer

Brake fluid, in itself, is inherently non-corrosive and contains corrosion inhibitors (make a hell of a mess of some/ all of the brake components if it wasn't!) The earlier DOT3/4 (non silicon based) types as used in your average Landy are highly effective paint strippers of cellulose based paint/ petroleum based underseals. Suggest you wipe off the softened paint/ underseal. Wash with hot soapy water and reapply whatever protection was on there in the first place. If the chassis is galvanised- don't worry about it!

Be worth checking if 3 phase or single (depending on whether you have 3 phase) first.

That'd be the Foreign & Commonwealth Office site, at a guess clicky

I like the idea of a button on the back door (tailgate) that you press and it pops open. Do you think that'll ever catch on on production motors? Imagine the possibilities- you could even fit one inside the cab and open the rear remotely. Not in my lifetime, I guess...

I'm pleased that they appreciate the pain and expense that we hybrid owners have to go through by exempting us from their stickering campaign- "...The CRDA officials target the most gas-guzzling of 4×4s leaving those who spend hundreds of thousands of pounds on a ‘hybrid’ version of this status symbol (approx as ‘green’ as a normal automobile) to their own ‘green’ delusions..." Well, mine is at least a greeny colour but I'm pretty sure that's not a delusion

On manufacturers figs I get the equivalent of 186 hp/l from my normally aspirated Honda NS400R. Nasty smelly polluting 2 stroke horses

Given your nick- Madness would seem appropriate

Will be interesting to see if the beholder is on here

"...a high-end sound system calibrated to the Defender interior..." Guess that's a euphemism for f in loud

Got any friends/ enemies locally that could pop round and cut your bottom hose? If there's any liquid left, it'd give it an easy way out. Good luck anyway- pretty unseasonal weather recently and ongoing for this part of the country.

Spot on- saw it, love Mythbusters. All the things I would have loved to experiment with, if I hadn't settled down to a sensible, practical, conventional life- sigh

Possibly a Pro/ Am thing. They take the other artics out there as having professional drivers with superhuman powers and the ability to overcome the laws of physics and human reaction times, and allow them to slipstream. Mere mortals, once they've disappeared from their mirrors, make them anxious...

Having finally managed to get hold of a standard 3.9 efi cam for the rebuild (thanks Grant )I'm wondering whether anyone has the timings and lifts for this cam? I know I could just line up the dots and stick it in, but as I've got a vernier duplex, I'd quite like to time it in properly. (there's no emoticon for an@l available- probably a good thing!) On a more academic note, can anyone enlighten me on the standard LR identification markings on a cam? The Piper that I've taken out had the ID stamped on the end boss. The new LR one that I've got has nothing apart from some fetching green paint on the end rough casting, HRC1619 stamped into the casting blank and this at the timing chain end of the blank. Not a lot to go on! Any information would be much appreciated. The engine rebuild is getting to the fun stage now- 10 hours of inhaling various mind altering chemicals to clean the component parts of the "rebuilt" engine- tomorrow the rebuild (revisited) starts- again. It's going to be running by Sunday or I lose a crate of beer and a tenner Better to have a sporting wager than a proper project plan and achievable deadline....

Had no problems insuring my RR/ Series/ Defender Hybrid (on a Q plate even). Went through Adrian Flux. They reserved the right to obtain engineers report but didn't exercise the option.

Bang goes the budget rebuild then BBC I was thinking, worst case of retarding the timing on the 285 as have an adjustable duplex setup, can't (well not allowed to) afford Rhoads lifters. Will see what happens with negotiations for 3.9 cam first. If I can buy that, cover the costs by selling the 285, I'll be happy

Prob didn't explain that too well. The heavy flywheel would smooth the rough idle to a point, but there would be a lack of torque to accelerate when applying the right foot

Just to cover my costs RRB. To be clear will look to pass the Piper 285, no followers, no guarantees (measured it, has the timings, marks stamped on the end) still in it's original phosphate coating. PM me with offers between oops- nearly started a stampede there After editing- PM me, we'll talk turkey

I guess the RR flywheel might help smooth the idle slightly but at the expense of the pick up. Torn in 2 ways now as have potential access to a new 3.9 efi cam. The boy racer in me wants the lumpy cam, the sensible old bloke wants the LR one Before I get there though, I have to deal with the spigot dilemma this weekend. Does anyone on here actually ream them out (ooooer missus) or just bash them in (in a sensitive way)

This rang a very distant bell- one angle to think about would be a potential electrochemical reaction where copper and aluminium meet in the presence of an electrolyte. As I seem to recall, they sit at opposite ends of the galvanic spectrum and have high potential for corrosion if in contact and soaked with a suitable electrolyte. Maybe there are some chemists here that left college more recently than 30 years ago who can add something/ fact check me on this?

Well, compared to the smouldering, misfiring worn out lump that I'm throwing out, I'm hoping it'll be a big improvement :lol: As far as valvetrain mods, the 285 is pretty much on the limit for a drop and play set up. I'm going to be squinting very carefully at valve/ piston clearances, cap to guide clearances, spring coil-binding and pre-load, especially as I'm running tin head gaskets to preserve the comp ratio. What was a rebuild of a rebuilt budget lump has now turned into something reassuringly expensive, now the cost of gaskets, main, big end and head bolts have been factored in. My next question to ponder is how to achieve a reamed clearance of 19.177 + 0.025 mm on my yet to be pressed in spigot bearing. I thought you could fix Landys with an adjustable lump hammer, but I can't seem to find a 3/4 inch one

Thanks Bowie It's manual. Fortunately the Piper and followers are new and unmarked (built lump that I bought didn't even have the pushrods installed) so I could at least get away with buying the cam as a standalone. Why the 3.9 efi rather than the 3.5 (assuming both are for the high comp engines)? I'm tending towards a cam swap while everything's on the bench in the warm. I'd like the truck to pull like one. I don't really want a truck replica of my NS400R

Unfortunately, yes. Having procured a bargain "completely rebuilt" high comp Vitesse 3.5 efi engine from a well known auction site, stripped it with some trepidation expecting to find, well, use your imagination- it was only 400 quid. Imagine my surprise/ pleasure when it turned out to be re-ringed, re-shelled and all parts clean, shiny and pretty unworn. The pleasure has turned to pain on discovering it's fitted with a shiny (well black phosphated) Piper 285 cam. Has anyone any experience of running one of these cams? Looking at the spec, it's going to make a pretty gutless (low down), poor idling off road experience. Would I be better off binning the 285, putting in a new standard high comp efi cam, or am I just looking for something to worry about? Any thoughts, views or reassuring pats on the back would be appreciated