Ed Poore

Meter is maxing out - basically the two pins are open circuit. It might be worth chucking a 60 Ohm resistor across the two pins then, it might, might be enough to fool it. No warranties offered on this work though

Tutorial here: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/measuring-voltage Basically turn knob to V with straight lines, put black (negative) probe on any ground pin and red (positive) probe on CAN H when powered. Hopefully will give you about 2.5V, do the same but this time measure CAN L. To measure the resistance across the pins remove any power from the seat and turn the multimeter to the Omega (Ω) symbol. If you've got multiple ranges then you can probably just pick the lowest and go with that. If it appears to max out (how it does that depends on the meter) then go up the range until it stabilises. Technically you should start at the upper range and go down but we're hoping it'll be about 60Ωs here so might as well jump a few. If it's not measuring 60Ω across the pins (and is much much higher) then the resistor trick stands a chance of working.

Have you measured the voltages on those pins yet? It would also be worth measuring the resistance to ground and the resistance between the two wires (with no power).

Relays will certainly sort it, they're only DC motors after all.

- admittedly that was along the lines of what I was thinking - it was failing to speak to something on the car. No one to blame but myself, was knackered that particular day and couldn't be bothered to spend some time on Google. @Chambo110 - do you have both "Module - Driver seat" and "Switchpack - Seat - Driver"? If it's ONLY a LIN bus failure that causes inch mode then if you have both modules there might be a broken wire between the two. What I suspect is that it's also the CAN bus that can cause the inch mode. Assuming you have both modules (I would assume so?) then I'd first check that there's not a broken wire (the grey GY) one? Now if that doesn't show up anything can you measure the voltage on the MS CAN H and MS CAN L pins (with respect to ground, i.e. negative of the multi-meter on a ground pin and the positive on each pin in turn - DC volts this is) - they should be hopefully relatively easy to spot as I'd hope they are a twisted pair. Hopefully both will be around 2.5V if I remember correctly. Now here's a slight stab in the dark but there's a small chance the module is simply recognising the CAN bus is not terminated correctly so you might get away with putting a 60 Ohm resistor between CAN H and CAN L to fool it. When I've got a moment I'll take a read through the document @TSD linked to and see if I can glean anything from it. A quick glance through indicated that the seat goes into sleep mode if no activity is seen on the LIN bus so it might be enough to build a little doohicky that spews carp out on the LIN and CAN bus to fool it into thinking it's awake. Unfortunately I'm not sure it's going to be quite that simple. Now if you were willing to bring them down to Wales I could certainly pull the control modules apart and do a little bit of reverse engineering. Worst case can always design you a custom circuit board to do all the control work but I'm afraid that might cost a bit more than you want. Depends on how much time you want to invest. I'd be happy to pull apart things for free because I'm nosy like that. We can take it from there - it might be a simple fix, it might be more complex.

No idea I'm afraid.

Playing devil's advocate here but do you have any references or back up for that? I'm not disputing the fact but it's about time we actually brought some science into this. I had a trawl through Ashcroft's website as I recall seeing them test half-shafts. I found a graph which showed different spline LR half-shafts vs. Ashcroft's breaking torque and the differences were marked. OK there is something about Ashcroft's testing it but rather than an independent test house but it's better than nothing. Remember size and thickness are not the be all and end all. A good example of this was a chap who came around to do some ground-works at my place. Managed to snap two Kubota pins in the digger, the steel quality was utter carp. Although there is something to be said for it - at least he didn't bend the arm itself.

Appears to have been sourced from here: http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/17805-land-rover-wolf-history-and-unanswered-questions/

Do you have the page with the key on it? I'm guessing YE-RD means yellow / red, BN-RD means brown / red etc. Your pictures aren't clear enough for me to see the twists in the colours. I'm guessing the 2.5 after the colour code means the cross-sectional area in mm² because 2.5mm­² is approximately 35A rating. The number afterwards I'd hazard a guess as to the length of wire. I would concur that C33 is the big connector on the right. I would wire up POWER FEED 1, POWER FEED 2, POWER GND2, POWER GND 1 and LOGIC GND from the Driver seat module. You might also need to wire up the LOGIC FEED cable as well. See whether that brings anything to life. If not then slightly worryingly it might require the CAN bus to be up, hopefully not as there appears to be a LIN connection between the switch pack and module. Hopefully that's built into the seat and is already connected up for you.

To be honest although it's not original at the moment my thoughts are to keep it "original" (a bit like your 109 ) but a practical vehicle first and foremost. Which is why I'm not going to be hunting for a 3.5V8 to put back into it, I'm going to see how the LD28T feels first since that engine's free. If I'm not happy with it I'm sorely tempted to shove a TDV8 in there although I do like mechanical simplicity to a certain extent. Incidentally if you come across SandySix on lrukforums and stage1v8 that's the previous owner's username and you can see he had the same idea. Consequently I don't think I'll be extending the chassis or doing anything like that - it's just about the right size I think for what I want. When I get around to building a camper there's enough space to lie down in the bed comfortably as is. Might do extendable roof and then you can have the bed go out above the roof. There's actually a massive chunk of space underneath the bed as it is so potential to drop down there. I will probably knock up some storage boxes to sit in front and behind the rear wheels so thinks like ratchet straps etc., can live in there. Dad had a neat suggestion in seeing whether some new sides could be fabricated (everything's detachable at the moment) that double up as ramps so the Argo can be driven up onto the back. It might struggle for traction on the angle but can always put an eye behind the cab which it can winch itself up.

They're quite a bit bigger than the Sandringhams. According to https://www.remlr.com/perentie-6-gs.html it's 3040mm (120") to intermediate axle and 3940mm (155") to rear axle whereas I'm 109" and 139" I think (haven't actually measured it). It's also a good food wider and two foot longer on the load bed. It's also a good tonne heavier unladen by the looks of it. I'm amazed that the brochure shows an unladen Sandringham 6 weight of 1634kg, OK this particular one is probably 250kg heavier having a straight 6 diesel rather than the lightweight rover V8. I'll see if I can find the time to get it MOTd and up to Summer Sisters with it so people can have a nosey. Perhaps if some ramps are built I could bring the Argo again on the back (it's running a fair bit better now). Although you better park a long long way away Jon .

True I'm hoping my friend comes up trumps with the PTO adapter and pump because by all accounts they're not particularly common (being an LT95). If that happens I'll probably whack the initial hydraulic system on there with a couple of strategic quick couplers (front and rear of bed, perhaps the front). So easy enough to plumb in extra cylinders if required

Thought of that... Easiest way is a hook loader as mentioned above , well easier once built.

One consideration for it is a demountable camping pod. Although surprisingly it's not that much longer than my 110 (18" or so) despite having a wheelbase of 109/139". Also need steps, the load bed is surprisingly high.

LD28T - turbo 2.8 straight 6 from a Patrol. Will see how it goes, my last experience of a straight six was in a BMW 2.5 P38 and there was naff all bottom end grunt. What's the difference in the setup? I might have emailed Nige last night about the feasibility of putting a locker in it...

Yeah. Neil the previous owner was paranoid about the centre diff winding up. It's one of those special through drives that's bespoke to the Sandringham.

Assuming you mean Britpart rather than the petroleum supplier then: https://www.britpart.com/about-us, https://www.britpart.com/contact-us

And home (in the daylight). Already been put to use after unloading stuff from it it's been loaded up with some wood that needs to be moved out of the way tomorrow.

Well it's home, needs quite a few bits tidying up and sorting but solid and drives reasonably well now. Photo from last fill up before home, was dark when I set off and 1am when it was unloaded off the trailer as I've got to return the trailer first this tomorrow.

I don't know about ATBs but generally availability of stuff for Salisburys isn't as good and is more expensive. Locker wise the only practical option for a Salisbury is an ARB and there are known weaknesses with those and the Ashcroft unit is considered much stronger overall. Some have been "rectified" as I mentioned in a previous post. One of the weaknesses I remember was that there's a plastic cage as part of, I think, the locking mechanism. This can melt and reasonably often breaks. I think when I had my first locker built by Nige he'd just finished making a batch or was looking into making a batch of metal versions. The other which is more of an issue is that the air seal setup has a tendency to perish in the ARB, I can't remember if it's because it's basically not used a whole lot and thus sits idle. With the Ashlocker its setup the other way around so that the seal is always being "stimulated" and thus doesn't harden up as readily. Hopefully Nige can correct me if I've remembered this wrong. But Ian is right, although the same basic blocks as a Dana it's not as strong. By the time and money you've spent getting it to a similar standard you can sort out the weaknesses in the short nose axle. Fundamentally the main driver is, at least in the UK, parts availability. For the vast majority of people they're not going to get close to breaking the standard LR one anyway.

Yup

You don't want actual P38 axles (which is a shame cause I have two crusty casings) as the pumpkin is on the wrong side. You want a casing and diff off a Td5 or newer 110 with the so called P38/Wolf short nose diff in it. I think the only thing you'll need afterwards is a slightly longer prop but certainly Gwyn Lewis will have what you need. I just phoned him up said what my setup was and he shipped the correct prop down for me. They're not that difficult to source, at least weren't when I looked. Might be worth chucking up a wanted ad. I think I sourced mine from an ad on defender2.net.

This one is from a patrol so don't know if that makes any difference. On paper it's similar to a 300Tdi I recall but might be wrong. By all accounts the cranks can fetch silly money because they're used as strokers for the Skyline engines. The previous owner sold the crank from the one that didn't build pressure and paid for both engines from the proceeds. If that's true not overly bothered because if it'll cover a shunted TDV8 vehicle I'm so tempted to put one of those into either it or the 110.

@miketomcat - more just remembering to take it off before the rest of the vehicle is scrapped!

Is that their new "repower" engine that came out a year or two ago? I.e. a crated diesel engine for small utility vehicles? Be curious as to how you get on with it - I'm picking up a 6x6 on Sunday which currently has an LD28T in it from a Nissan Patrol. The previous LD28T it had in it suffered with oil pressure issues so curious as to how this one is going to go. Given the extra weight it's designed to carry something a little more pokey might be nice in the future.