Ed Poore

Not to rain on anyone's parade but you could get what happened with one of mine and the thing didn't shear but broke free and starting spinning. Absolute sod but luckily had access to a welder. Not sure how you'd manage otherwise.

All in a day's work. Literally. Think we shifted twice the amount of hardcore in half the time. Although the tarmac around the house has taken a walloping having probably 10+ tonnes of dumper flying around it all day. (admiteddly it wasn't in the best of shape). Will have to live with it till all the construction work is done.

Since it has been requested by a few people I thought I'll relinquish and post a build thread for the new garage. It's loosely 4x4 related since it'll be housing my two Land Rovers (the 300Tdi 110 and Sandringham 6x6), the latter has proven to be a little pain in the backside... Now there should be other higher priority projects on the go (converting what were stables into a machine shop, electronics lab and office for the business) but in order to get the 18+ tonne lorries to there for doing the slabs for the floor wasn't going to happen with a lawn in the way. I'd been using one end as a dry area for working on the 110 when I needed to and it started tearing up the grass. As I cleared it out of the way I discovered a cobbled driveway under the lawn. Anyway with part of a driveway in place a chap came in and graded another bit of the lawn so we could fill with hardcore to make a driveway for lorries to get to the workshops. Except I needed some hardcore. Then Dad (all of this is his fault I might hasten to add) had suggested a place to build a garage and I knew from planting some fruit trees that the soil wasn't particularly deep and hit shale after about 6 inches. So the plan was hatched to excavate the hole for the garage and this would provide hardcore for the driveway. Once the lorries had driven over it and compacted it further I could grade the top and add some nicer stone rather than shale. So excavations started: Which resulted in the following hole in the bank: The back of the house for reference is off to the right - the house behind the telegraph pole is a neighbour but I own the 1/4 acre or so of "vegetable" garden above the wall between me and them. After having a careful read through the planning regulations / permitted development rules for Wales provided I keep it under 2.5m eaves (4m roof line) and under 2.25 acres then I don't need planning . I'm inclined currently to keep it under that height because the above photo is actually looking south and making it much taller may impact upon sun getting to the house. I'm half considering making it underground so that there can be a grassy / sunny balcony on-top of it. And everyone wants an underground lair don't they? But then some prat decided to go and buy a Sandringham 6 139". So dutifully both vehicles were parked inside the hole to see how they fitted. Hmmm. A little tight and was going to make an interesting shape (the wall was at an angle from roughly the spade to where the camera is). So seeing as I'm unlikely to ever move again from this 7-9 bed mad house I've bought I knew I'd be kicking myself if I didn't make it a bit bigger. Did someone say bigga digga? For reference that's a 13 tonne machine and the back of the bank is above his roof-line so guessing about 3m high. For scale here the smallest bucket for the machine Ben's got (this isn't his biggest machine): And the beauty is his depot is just down the road from me (about 1/4 mile). Unfortunately that's pretty much it for now - I ran down the yard to look at some electrics for him and when I got back puppies were demanding feed and then it got dark. I'll get a comparable picture with the two Land Rovers in there but at the moment there's a 6 tonne dumper and 13 tonne excavator parked in it... As it'll fall under building regs because of the floor area (something like 24x30ft) and I don't have the time looking into getting some local well respected builders in to do the majority of the work. They've also got a friendly building regs gal and structural engineer to hand which will make things smoother. But the structure is going to be reinforced shuttered concrete as it's below ground and that will effectively tank it from the water coming through the sides. There are some old land drains that have been split since doing this work - half tempted to pipe them through the wall into a wash basin . The shuttering should also work out cheaper overall since it'll just be some ply and 2x4 structure, some rebar and then get the concrete in...

I found if I was using a lot of filler wire it was sometimes easier to lay one down along the path of the bead and then if you feel ambitious you can feed in a second one by hand...

Control?

Has the instructor critiqued your welds? They look a little "rough" and I'm wondering if it's a bit cold. Ignore the ****ty mig run on these but hopefully you can see a difference. These were a sod because of all the cleanup I had to do, was a favour to an ex-mate and thought I'd use the occasion to practice my tig.

Another company worth speaking to is Dyfed Steels. It appears they have a depot in Birmingham so would probably deliver to the Peaks.

Do we you know what messages are required because this strikes me as the simplest solution. @Chambo110 - how confident do you feel pulling apart the seat module with the switches and taking some piccies for us?

When I built the seat frame and side storage bays for the rear of the 110 I got in a load of 20x20mm box (might have been 2mm wall) from https://www.themetalstore.co.uk/products/6-metre-lengths-box-section-2mm They actually had an option to leave by the side of the house when booking delivery. I think I just ordered 10 lengths of 3m at the time and was incredibly useful having a stock of 20x20 box around. You can go thinner if you drop to imperial sizes. More than strong enough - I built a "temporary" wheeled trolley to shift a hydraulic press around and that lasted surprisingly well in fact it only suffered when I dropped a 20" OD, 20mm 900mm long pipe onto (probably >300kg worth of steel) onto it... 6 metres of 20x20mm works out at £2.66 / m which is probably more palatable.

That's part of the reason I'm hesitant over the R2.8 - if it had been a 6 cylinder I'd have jumped on it. As it is I'm cautious.

The turbo charged straight six straight through exhaust and stack does sound nice though!

See my signature for a link to a thread for more details. It's got a factory standard LT95 in there with integrated transfer case, supposedly the LT95 itself is very strong albeit a 4 speed box. Off-road pah not so much - with rusted up leaf springs it struggles on my driveways at the moment, no flex and an open diffs means loss of traction is very easy. Current plan is to get it on the road and see how the engine feels / behaves itself, by all accounts it's a capable engine once turbo charged (which it is) so we'll see. It's just of unknown origin since the chap who had it before died suddenly and although we know it came out of a working vehicle don't even know the mileage on it.

I'd be very keen in hearing how you get on. I'm very tempted by it if I don't get on with the turboed LD28 in the 6x6. Just today was pootling around and it dropped oil pressure when warm. Might be a number of things (including dodgy gauge) so I'm not being inspired with confidence in it yet.

How temporary? I made a little bracket years ago that allowed me to clip a cubby box in place of the centre seat squab. Kept this from sliding around and if I needed the centre seat just pop out the cubby box and clip in the squab.

No work.

Yes

Catching up on rugby because we were knees deep in P38 when the rugby was on.

Now that people with more, apparent, time have offered their services I shall bow out Happy to help out though. Just to be clear relays aren't the way I would suggest or recommend but the question was asked. Meanwhile I'll go back to swearing at glass fuses and Lucas wiring

My limited experience with TIG on Ali was predominantly about heat management. It took quite a lot of juice to get the puddle to form but then it could run away from you quite quickly, but this was on a test bead on some quite chunk 8mm ali which was pushing my TIG hard.

Basically all the motors are (hopefully!) going to be bog standard brushed DC motors (two wires to each). Basic terms you connect one wire to +12V and the other to ground, to reverse the motor you flip the connections around. The reason for using relays is the high currents likely involved in driving the motors (note they'll pull more if you're sat on them for example) but broadly speaking the following diagram should give you some indication on how to wire up each motor. You'll then need a 3 way switch which in the central position does nothing, in one direction it activates relay 2 leaving relay 1 in the same position. The other direction it will leave relay 2 but flip relay 1. Clear as mud? It's going to be a lot of wiring... Offer is still there.

Although as someone recently said when they saw the 6x6 everything has a price... I can ask.

Unfortunately not for sale. He's converting it into a "works" truck with PTO drive compressor, hydraulic pump, welder and gen set. Mind you he has been doing that for several years...

Not quite the same but I do know someone who managed to forget he had an entire 101 in his yard for several years

This one do?

1W should do.