TobyMellin

I was aware of different injection pressures, but was unsure if this was monitored by the ECU or not. I did read on landyzone of a guy who says he has fitted a 15p in to his 10p, coded the injectors and off he went, but that's only one person, I can't find anyone else. Thanks for the input

I normally get them pressure tested by my local engine shop, they charge me £60 to test old head, if it has failed, they test and clean the new head for free. I think I'll whip the head off and get it down to them, typical it happens when everywhere is shut for parts etc but I'm in work over Christmas and need a car ☹️ Looks like the Mrs is getting up at 5 and taking me to work 😄 I can't put the head failures down to anything other than the over fueling of the remap....or maybe I just have really bad luck 😅

Hi Steve, I have the proper Sykes Pickavant pressure tester that goes in the injector hole. The head is still on at the moment. Unfortunately this isn't the first time it has happened (this is head No3 in 2 years!). It also has steel dowels fitted from when I previously did the head. I also changed the injector seals/washers about 2 months ago due to a starting issue, which the seals/washers cured. I'm leaning towards just replacing with another 10p. I've been looking to swap to a 110 for a while anyway, so maybe this is the time. I have attached a picture of the previous head crack, from coolant gallery in to cylinder 3. Thanks Toby

If it's a fairly straight forward swap (i'm limited on time), then I will throw a 15p in. I just haven't got the time to be going getting pipes made, making brackets etc. To be honest....I have a feeling my remap has something to do with the constant head cracking (this is the 3rd cylinder head to crack in 3 years....) It does overfuel quite a lot (black smokes heavily under load) and I am loaded quite a lot of the time due to my fitted toolbox/racking etc and towing trailers. The map will be getting changed as soon as the head/engine is swapped. Thanks Toby

My 2000 90 TD5 has been smoking quite a bit for a while now and a compression test confirmed cylinder 2 was low. I've been pondering for a while now whether to pull it and rebuild it. As of yesterday afternoon, the cylinder head has failed...again. Header tank was empty and engine locked when I went top start it up this morning. After turning it over by hand I've now concluded the head has cracked again after filling the yard with white smoke. I've decided I'm going to throw another 'known good' engine in out of a friend who is breaking a few Discoverys. My question is...should I carry on with the 10p engine, or put a 15p in? I can't see any reason why a 15p wouldn't run off the 10p ECU once the injectors are coded? Or would I need the 15p ECU aswel? Are here any benefits to putting the 15p in? Has anyone on here done the swap? I'm a truck mechanic so the swap is not a problem, it's just the differences between the 2 engines I am unsure of. Thanks in advance Toby

Any build thread on this? Where did you source the turbo?

I built one for my 90 after seeing the price of new ones! I went to my local steel place and bought a 20m of 25mm rust stock tube for £6, then I had a load of pre-bent 25mm 90degree from scrap skip at work. Took me best part of 2 days to make it, having to notch all the tubes etc, but definitely worth it!

So....I came to start it this morning, and it wouldn't turn over. Checked battery, Ok. Checked header tank...empty. Ater turning it over by hand, it started. I can only assume the cylinder head has cracked again and filled a cylinder, causing it to Hydraulic. Still lots of white smoke! looks like it's time to take the head off again

I set off to work this morning around 4:30 and after about 20 mins I noticed my heater wasn't blowing warm. So I pulled over, check coolant level, ok, checked heater leaver on heater box, ok. I carried on to work and parked up. After sitting at work for 12 hours, I started it up and there was lots of white smoke. The smoke continued for the next couple of miles, and it was really thick. Thick enough that I couldn't see the car behind me! I replaced the cylinder head 12 months ago as it had cracked causing coolant to leak in to a cylinder. The coolant level now doesn't seem to move now though. I'm going to check again in the morning and see what sort of smell is coming from the smoke. I'm thinking maybe and injector cup has cracked.....but this doesn't explain the intermittent heater. Any help is appreciated! Toby

I've got 4 kids and work a lot, so I don't get much chance any more I'm going to see how I get on with the 90 over the next few months, as I do like the compact-ness of it. I'll be getting a TD5 110 if I do anyway so everything will easily to swap over. Thanks for your help Ed, I'll keep you updated! Toby

I'll just keep an eye on the tank and drain water every now and then when I remember! I have a decent supply of compressor oil (from work) so I'll use this. If it turns out it's not good for the pump, we'll soon find out That pressure is higher than I thought one of those pumps would do. Picking everything up tomorrow, probably won't be until next weekend that I get chance to fit everything though as I'm in work Mon-Thurs. I'm hoping to spend next Friday mounting the air system and my inverter. Starting to think it might be a good idea to get a 110 Toby

I was thinking to obtain the original pipework off the breakers TD5, cut them off say 6 inch from the pump and join them to air pipe via push fittings. I'm not too fussed about the engine running, as I will only be using it for short periods of time on site. My tank has a drain valve anyway, so I'll keep an eye on it, and if need be I'll fit a water trap just before the tank. What sort of oiler are you using? And what sort of oil? What sort of pressure does it build up to? That's a pretty good idea! I should be collecting everything this weekend from a guy locally, original TD5 bracket aswel which will make things easier! Thanks for the help!

ahhhh yes, of course, I overlooked the non-return side of things. How much water is your AC pump producing in the tank? I think my best bet will be to find someone locally breaking a Disco TD5 with AC, as I'm going to need the pump, bracket, pipework at the pump, pressure sensor. I'll run in a new loom and fused relay.

Cheers Ed! I've just had a look on eBay, and TD5 air con pumps are coming in around £40, brackets about the same. I've already got a belt after being supplied the wrong one and never returned it. I've got plenty of plastic air pipe and fittings. Is you air con clutch wired up to a switch on the dash?

The only engine driven ones I've look at are the VMAC underhood compressors, but these are pretty pricey! I do already have a small chassis mounted tank off a Scania bin wagon on the O/S chassis rail What are you able to run off an AC compressor tool wise? I only really need it for an air blower, short use of a die grinder etc. I'm afraid mines got a TD5 in it

I have used the LED headlamp bulbs on my Defenbder TD5. I checked them on the beam setter at work, they did seem to have some kind of pattern, but it wasn't brilliant! They produced really good light on both high and low beam. The biggest problem I found with them, was the interference with radio signals. As soon as the headlights were turned on, my radio would loose all signal. The only way I found round this was to fit clip on ferrites on the headlamp loom. I would of thought they would be illegal, they did arrive in a plain box with Chinglish instructions! Toby

Looking good! That clamshell looks bob on! How are you planning on running the hydraulics? Prop driven pump?

It's been a while since I've posted on here, probably about 5 years! I'm a truck mechanic and work at a main dealer, but on my days off I do a lot of plant/truck repairs. I've got sick off hauling my top toolbox in and out the back of the Defender twice a week and keeping everything in boxes and bags. I had these van drawers lying about after a mate wanted rid of, so I've put them to use, and I think they work pretty well! I firstly unbolted the drawer section from the base and removed the wooden worktop that was bolted to it. Measured everything up.... I then got it bolted in with some handy brackets from work. Two either side and also bolted down through the tub with plate on the opposite side. I then moved on to modifying/narrowing the lower section that will support the weight somewhat and also be handy for storing jump leads etc All mounted up, pretty happy with it, except my OCD going haywire with the fact the squares stop part way along, but I'll see how long I can live with that All done and dusted, drawers in. Just need to sort some decent drawer liners, mount my inverter somewhere and figure out where to mount small compressor that feeds my chassis mounted tank. That's it for now, I'll hopefully get some more time this week to line the back out and mount some LED strip lights as it's pretty dark in the back! Toby

I did have a7 years NCB, never made a claim since I started driving, but since the theft, they have reduced this to 3 years as I claimed for the damage to the car. I can't see a 2000 year car being considered for a classic policy yet, but it's worth a try I suppose! I normally rack up around 15k a year. I've now changed the vehicle to being locked in a garage (now locked up in the workshop every night). I could afford to pay the £2100 a year, but I can't bring myself to do it out of principle! I'm being left with not much choice but to sell the 90 and get a company vehicle and maybe a project Land Rover.

My insurance company have knocked my no claims down the 3 years. The insurance system is ridiculous, because some little p*^&k stole my car and smashed it up, I should have to pay for it I suppose there's nothing I can do, except look for another vehicle

So this time last year, my 2000 90 TD5 was stolen. After 2 days I received a phone call to say it had be found, awesome. I went down to the crime scene, the back quarter was all smashed in, the rear door was damaged beyond repair, the drivers door was damaged, the radio had been stolen, they had somehow snapped both rear shockers and caused other various body damage. The quote to repair came back at £3100 all in, which the insurer agreed to pay. Now 12 months on, I've had my renewal through. I was originally paying £600 a year (25 years old). It has now shot up to £2100! I've shopped around and cant seem to get it any cheaper! Does anyone have any advice? I didn't even pay that much on a TD5 at the age of 17! I refuse to pay this amount at the age of 25 with 7 years no claims! Cheers Toby

Cool, I'll have a look now. Cheers

The tuner did adjust the wastegate with the tune, which I thought was pretty common with remapped TD5's. Hmm I am tempted to take the car to a different tuner and get another opinion. My car has the usual: Alumnium intercooler EGR removed Air filter Straight pipe It's still doesnt pull as well as my friends 15p that has been remapped though. Anyone recommend any tuners local to Manchester? Cheers Toby

Evening! I've had my Defender TD5 mapped for about a year now, and the standard intercooler popped yesterday, so I've ordered an aluminium one. I was curious as to what boost pressure figures various tuners are using. Cheers! Toby

Firstly a little bit about my 90: 2000 TD5 EGR removed Remapped ECU by Mastak and boost turned up to 22psi 149k miles No active fault codes The problem mainly happens when the engine is cold, and doesn't happen all the time. On start up everything sounds normal, car idles fine. I'll pull out of a junction, and the 90 will pull a lot harder and accelerate a lot more than normal, but makes a strange noise as if there is a blockage somewhere on the intake side. I thought maybe the wastegate was sticking but this is free. The only other thing I've noticed is the throttle seems to 'stick on' for a couple of seconds after lift off, but I can't see the two problems relating. Im a bit stuck as what to look for now. Any suggestions ? Cheers Toby