gadget

I would think a brass brush would be fine. Don't put mental pressure on it though. Stuff the ports with tissue paper or some such to prevent bits of the brush droping in? Bear in mind that it only needs to be flat rather than squeaky clean.

I dragged a new stanley blade perpendicular across the surface to remove the rough stuff and then scotch bright and white spirit to finish.

It's a TD5, so gearbox brackets off it is. I've got a pit that i can use, but i'm not sure if doing the swap over a pit will be easier or harder than over a flat surface. The impact gun i have is a clarke cheapie. Hopefully it will do the job on the flywheel.

As i've mentioned in another thread, i've got an R380 sat waiting to be replaced in my 110. I've got a list of stuff to do that never seems to get shorter, but at some point soon i'd like to swap the gearbox over. Assuming that i've got the floor out, the 110 jacked up, prop off, cross member and downpipe removed, and the engine crane poised for action. How long should i expect the swap to take? Ideally i'd like the replace the rear crank seal whilst the box is off. I appreciate that there are going to be gearbox swaps from hell that have taken weeks because each bolt had to be coaxed out with violence and conversely some have been completed in a tea break. Just trying to get and idea.

I'd change the studs, just for piece of mind. They're very cheap. Mine had at least 3mm gap when a rule was put across it. It was a hell of a bend. If you think the distortion would be taken up by the gasket width then i'd not bother touching the manifold.

On my Defender, but there's no difference between it and my Discovery TD5... I fitted a new set of LR standard studs. Had the manifold skimmed because it was horribly warped. Drilled the manifold mount holes on ports 1 and 5 to 10mm. The core plug is an odd size hex drive. 11MM comes to mind? Had no issues since i refitted everything.

Definitely go with the buck/switching regulators. The one TSD links to would do the job. Bear in mind that anything from china with its random CE mark may or may not be electrically noisy, so buy one and try it before you buy a handful. If you're thinking of building your own i think i'd try an LM25117 http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm25117.pdf‎

That'll be it then. the Belgians bought them all before the French and the Spanish could get their hands on them!

I appreciate the under the car comments. I was thinking about the thing being idle for so long and not being washed with oil internally. It sounds like i'm worrying unduly If the input shaft is rusty do i just sandpaper it off?

I got a spare R380 over a year ago to replace the noisy one in my 110. One thing an another got in the way of doing the swap and it's been sat outside under a couple of tarpaulins for over 12 months. Is it likely to have been damaged in any way by being left idle for so long?

I've picked up a used door lock to replace the poorly one on the front near side. Before i get to stripping stuff down to replace the mechanism is there a simple way to test the replacement?

Is the Discovery 3/4 EU5 compliant? There where quite a few of those knocking about too. I also saw local Defenders of many varieties right up to the TDCI, but again no locally registered TD5.

I've just got back from trundling around France and Spain in my Discovery and whilst out and about i've seen 4 other TD5 Discoverys. Lots of 200 and 300 TDI Discoverys but only 4 other TD5 Discoverys. Was the TD5 not popular in mainland europe?

Yup. And it feels too tight on conical bearings, but the haynes book doesn't mention any other figure. 1.16kg - 1.46kg was what i found on line and that feels ok.

Yes, i do mean the gap between the circlip and drive flange. Having rebuilt the axle completely the gaps are very different from the original. The original shims are no longer shims anyway, they're now tiny rings of corrosion. The haynes figures are set the float between .08mm and .25mm, but that fine book also said that the swivel preload was over 4kg

I need to shim up the CV joint end float. Do i need to use a DTI or is a rough guess at the end float gap ok? Obviously the reason i'm asking is because i don't own a DTI

I went with 4mm depth. It looked about right.

I've finally found some time to do some more with my front axle. I put everthing up to the stub axles on yesterday, and today i'm going to fit new bearings and seal to the hubs. I'm planning on using RTC3511 seals. Do these fit 4mm down in the hub as per the FTC4785 or at some other depth?

Here you are. Outside The brass bolts are banjos and feed the oil from the galleries into the aluminium heat exchanger inside. Inside The heatexchanger is immersed in the coolant in the block. The pipe on the outside would let a small amount of coolant out to the radiator via the egr cooler. Does that help?

The cooler fins on the inside are washed by the coolant in the block. give me a minute and i'll break out my shiny one a post a photo of the insides.

I'm reasonably sure that the egr cooler isn't there as standard and that what you have is may well be stock I've tried to find a coolant diagram showing the plumbing for the later set-up but no luck.

From what I've been able to figure it seems that the wash over from the block was deemed sufficient for the oil cooler and it was blanked. They left the pipe running around the rear of the engine but not plumbed in to anything. As that pipe fed the EGR cooler i suspect they might have ditched that too, but i've never seen one in the flesh to check. Do you have the EGR cooler?

After VIN 2A736340 the oil cooler wasn't plumbed in to the coolant via the steel pipe around the rear of the engine. It was blanked off with a very expensive rubber bung PYB500040.

Stuck in field in the wind and rain trying to sort out possibly the most airlock prone diesel system in the world (JCB 3CX) Probably should have wedged the accelerator on fast idle, but was busy getting wet and miserable

My TD5 spent a long time idling today and when it finally moved off i opened the taps and boy did it smoke. The smokescreen it left was impressive. Quite thick grey smoke and it made it for about 50 seconds. It cleared up and it's back to normal without problems. Would the panel consider this the be normal for a TD5 after idling for about 90 minutes?