discojmz

hi guys, I know im still pretty new here and as such nobody really knows me but this isnt really about me so here goes: In June 2008, a group of students from Leeds including myself will be travelling out to Tanzania to climb the mighty Kilimanjaro in aid of Child Reach International and to raise money for children in the developing world to have a better quality of life, an education, and a chance to make a brigher future for themselves and their countries. In order to make this chance of a lifetime trip, we need to each raise £2000 for the charity. A more than worthwhile task! Whilst in Tanzania, I shall also be spending time at one of the schools that the money raised will help, assisting them with maintenance and other tasks I can turn my hand to. Founded in 2003, ChildReach International is an innovative children's charity that works with communities in some of the world's poorest regions, helping them to give their children a brighter future. Thanks to our support children are able to escape a life of grinding poverty and reach their full potential. We believe that: *Every child has the right to enough food, clean water and shelter *Every child has the right to a good education *Every child has the right to a good health service *Every child has the right to live in a loving environment without fear of abuse or violence. Your donation will be used to continue our vital work. If you would like the money spent in a specific area where we work please get in touch Charity Registration No 1106490 If any of you feel that you might be willing and able to make a donation to this worthy cause, please visit my page at http://www.justgiving.com/jameslidgett thankyou all for your time jim

what you should have done is kept the permanent live. nigh on all modern aftermarket stereos, and i know that one does for a fact has a yellow and red wires, one requiring a permanent live to keep memory of stations, clock and power parts of the unit, the other to actually switch the unit on from the key thus not operate when engine is off and ignition is off, yet not lose any settings

dont forget the difference between a 70 and 80 profile tyre is not 10mm, well not unless the tyre is only 100mm wide

was td5 a typo or is it actually and engine and gearbox from a discovery td5 you are attempting to fit?

it's the transfer box that has the diff lock, not the gearbox though defender gearstick is about 6ft long too which i would say is less good tbh and the defender ratios will be annoying to say the least if your range rover has standard sized wheels and is used for a lot of road work td5 rrc?? transfer case flanges - again, not part of the gearbox at all, the transfer box is seperate and has the diff locker on it, all disco ones have diff a diff lock i believe (LT230 is it?) and yes the flanges will be in the same place, only difference may come (and im no expert on these in rangies) is if yours originally had the borg warner box in it

cheers guys, much obliged!

i think the answer might be in removing one of the bolts from the steering damper bracket which has to come off for fitting the front guard anyway, and seeing what bolt it is

they were second hand unfortunately. the previous owner said 'same size as diff casing' and someone on here said 3/8 UNC which as i said, fit to a point but if it's squashing the thread flat it surely cant be right

m8's too small and m10 only goes in about a turn before becoming tight

just getting around to fitting a qt style set of diff guards to my 200tdi '94 discovery but i'm at a loss as to what thread the holes are supposed to be. one source tells me 3/8 UNC which i can get in about 1/2 an inch or more but when i remove it the threads on the bolt have been flattened one source tells me 3/8 UNF same as the diff housing bolts, but i cant even get them started in the holes HELP! want me guards on so i can go play at korc

well i tried some 3/8 UNC and it made a right b****y mess of the bolt thread! only thankful it wasnt the thread inside turns out it's actually 3/8 UNF! same as the bolts that hold the diff into the axle

the set aside program (at least for us, but i believe widespread) ends next year. at the end of this summer all our set aside will be cultivated and cropped. there is an ever increasing demand now for sugar beet for ethanol and rape seed for biodiesel so things are moving, finally! as for a td5 running on biodiesel. i see no reason why not. properly engineered biodiesel should have the same viscous and combustibility properties as dino diesel or at least very similar. its main advantage it lubricates the engine better too. think what you may. if i believed everything i read, i would never have believed my 200tdi would run on the strong mixture of veg oil it does currently/biodiesel when i can be bothered to actually make it

just to resurrect this, what sized bolts are required for bolting the slider plate under the rear diff, i got my guard 2nd hand and as such dont know if i have a suitable bolt in stock cheers jim

i hear murmurings here and there regarding the running of disco steel wheels inside out for increased track/negative offset. is this actually a practical and viable option (for offroading if nothing else?) can the wheels be safely and securely mounted like this and does any company offer a service of reversing the little bowled recesses that the wheel nuts sit into cheers

we've got a 3hp 150litre SIP one. brilliant unit, worth every penny and well balanced and on big wheels for portability was a big added bonus

back to black, carplan black trim wax is thicker and better imo, and peanut butter does a blinding job. needs some scrubbing in but it should work

mine does this, usually after a long stint on the motorway. kinda wondered why too. box is only 12-14000 miles old i was just going to change the fluids and see if it helps edit: mine's a 200tdi

i was under the impression that straight veg/canola/etc oil was not classed as bio diesel, but taxed as a fuel supplement/additive currently. bio diesel by definition being the product of the veg based oil and methanol etc but regardless, this is most certainly a step in the right direction! i run mine on whatever i can get hold of that saves the planet and the pennies the most

im certificated for both kinds as said, only certified users for top handles because of the light weight ease of flinging them about even though of course it is still advisable to use two hands where possible im a Stihl man myself all mine are stihls. I dont agree with the comments about huskys being better at all. the difference is, a stihl keeps going and going and goin, you drop it, it's going, you fell a tree on it, it's going. husky's get arsey if you dont keep them immaculate in my experience. and try as we all might, that sometimes just does not happen, but i cannot emphasise enough the benefits of a good strip clean at least every now and again and after any prolonged useage. as for stihl's for low use... ours get long hours day in day out and have never missed a beat. they love hard work, and they just keep on roaring. but i cannot put more emphasis on PPE, and i'm talking trousers, helmet with ear and eye protection, protective gloves (with anti vibe cushioning) and protective boots. All should be at least class 1 protection, gloves i think can be class 0. my trousers alone were over 130 quid but theyre all around protection and i can use them for climbing too. PPE has a price, but what price do you put on your ability to walk or even breath. harsh but sadly true im afraid be safe Jim

as said on korc (outofmytree) should be there both days in one way shape or form. lawyerjohn is taking me round on the saturday hopefully once i ring him to confirm, and then i may well brave taking the disco round on the sunday but being standard right now im a bit tentative about it. not so much it having a lack of grip (although it does on road tyres) but moreover the fact it has no sill protection or any protection at all for that matter. I can see me leaving half of it in the quarry certainly looking forward to seeing what's in this artic full of machines

just removed the window ecu from the housing in my 96 300tdi to resolder a dry solder joint and regain useage of the electric rear windows. as i was prising the end panel away to slide out the board, my screwdriver slipped and literally just tapped the corner of that green box below, the lucas branded one. instantly it started ticking from its relays and making the indicators all flash round the car. when disconnected it causes the alarm siren to go off, and i have no remote central locking or alarm control now although the car will start etc. if i tap the box again, whether plugged in or not, i get a buzzing sound but i cant single out which component it is coming from i can supply part numbers and a photo if needed, im hoping someone will have come across this problem before! thanks guys

that picture has just proven to me that there IS a rib across the roof, to which you can secure the rear of an outback/ARB roof console CHEERS

very true, the tread on that tyre has essentially arrow profiled cleats/lugs in it similar to on a tractor. most people dont know that a tractor grips best in reverse, the soil or whatever is forced into the cupped apex of the tread which as you can imagine, grips a whole lot better. the reason for not running the tyres backwards is that they become too noisy and difficult to turn on the road and the treads wont self clear any more. the displacement of the soil even when gripped forwards is more than sufficient for the tractor's forward motion but the first rule of tractor driving is when ascending a ludicrously steep incline, do so in reverse

HI GUYS got a tonne of aux equipment, lights etc to install this weekend and wanted to know on a 300tdi where is best to run the switching wires through the bulkhead and how to get at them once theyre in the cabin. easiest options first please, if i can help it, i dont want to have to rave the dash apart too much. it isnt my car

this seems to be the case, yes mate. but like you say, im not sure how they would police it. i dont want one for show, it's for functional reasons. the tubular winch bumpers are perfect for what i want, so I WILL buy one i dare say. the tubulars are still on paddock spares' website but all bout about 3 bullbars have disappeared off there. i would expect to be seeing tonnes on ebay very soon as companies cant sell them through the normal channels