gazelle

As I am changing the clutch master cylinder on my Dec 2001 td5, I thought it would be good to resolve the leaky footwell seals that give me wet feet in the rain. The clutch seal for box to bulkhead is easy, MUC7505. The brake bulkhead to pedal box has two options - MUC7506 at around £14, and ANR6333 at around £3. What is the difference, how do I find out which one is applicable, and does it matter? Martin

Thanks for the continued advice guys. I have two applications in mind for this cleaning requirement: 1 - (LR related) Under the truck to clean off rust prior to protection without loosing to much of the tin foil used to make the td5 Defender chassis. (This is too thin to measure with my UT when new (esp rear x-member!) 2 - (LR related in that the LR gets me to the job!) Measurement of the thickness of Narrow boat hulls, often in the wet bottom of the "dry" dock, on my back in a 20 inch space below the boat. I am looking for one tool to work with both of these similar cleaning requirements. It is the second of these applications that makes battery power so compelling. The picture below shows the typical environment that I will need to be using it in! In most cases there will be 240V power, so I will investigate this and look at a suitable inverter/cheap generator when this is not available. Where do you guys get your brushes and scotch-brite disks from? Cheers Martin

I like the description of "Off road prepared". It may be just me, but I thought that all Defenders were! (Except those who lower the suspension!) Martin

Two examples of the the type of surface I need to clean for measurement.

Thanks guys, Is there a recommended cordless grinder? I will have a go with the scotch-brite pads with the drill. Are there flap disks that can be used with a drill? Cheers Martin

I regularly need to grind rusted steel in small areas (at least 2cm diameter)to measure remaining thickness with an Ultrasonic Thickness meter. The plating is between 4 and 10mm thick (when new). The rust can be 10mm in thickness. A 240V supply is not necessarily available. What is the most appropriate tool for removing the rust leaving a relatively smooth finish, without the risk of taking too much good material with it? Cheers Martin

Just looked at the website and Nanocom have now updated the website announcing the "Nanocom Evolution". Not much info, but some activity all the same.

I got sent two identical pairs in separate identical envelopes too! :) No complaints from me either!

Is he just being honest with the title?

Be careful though - the definitive map does not cover TRO's - eg the Tennyson Trail, for which the western end has a TRO (unless it has been lifted) but the eastern end is OK. I too would like to know where a list of TROs can be found and who to contact.

There seems to be a confusion here about recent legislation and guidance from government departments Stop trying to apply common sense to these situations. It will not work!!!!!!!!

Failing MAF?

There is a checklist you can find in RAVE if you have it which details what the dealer should do for each service. I don't have it with me, so I cannot check that they are the same, but I also found another checklist online here. One which looks more like the landrover one is found here. Although it does not fully answer your question, it does give you an idea what is involved. Good luck Martin

It took off a set of General Grabber TRs at this size when they started cracking and replaced them with GG AT2s. What a transformation off road, without the bad manners in the wet of the BFG MTs I have. Very good alround tyre, as you will find if you do a search for AT2s on this site.

Now....... how to tell SWMBO how to drive.............

This forum is full of useful information. It is organised around how to fix something. The information is all located in a vast database, which can be difficult to find stuff, especially if you are looking for symptoms that are subjective. There are a lot of questions which come up (and I am guilty of this too) where similar diagnostic questions are asked again and again. I have come accross else where (marine desiel reference books) symptom charts and diagnostic charts which can be used to identify where common problems might be found. They are not comprehensive, but point to a number of possible causes. For example for a TD5 (and probably incorrect!): Engine power is low - Does unplugging the plug on the MAF change the output - if so change the MAF Is there oil on the plug to the ECU from the engine - if so follow the instructions here <relevant tech archive post> ...... What do you think of this type of diagnostic chart being put together? Where would be the best place to keep it? Martin

I have been having some fun and games with the clutch/gearbox. I noticed that the gears were sticky and have changed the gearbox oil. This has helped somewhat, but now I have noticed a different problem - The clutch travel changes regularly. Most of the time the bite point is about half way - but some times it seems to be near the bottom of the travel. Normally this is not a great problem, but when it gets stuck in first in traffic it is a right royal pain. Any ideas? Martin PS when changing the gearbox oil there are somethings that no-one tells you. It will gush at first missing your tray to one side, and as you move your tray to catch this oil it dies down and dribbles the otherside of the tray. The lesson - get a bigger tray. Also a 32mm spanner is a big spanner! Also the big nut needed WD-40 to shift it. 15 minutes of soaking and it came off a treat. Thanks to MadCows for his simple "how to do" on his website.

Be careful with nail varnish remover. It is basically acetone, and will remove all the oils from your hand. Definitely check it somewhere hidden first.

You don't have to pay £100 per day if your truck happens to be within the bounds of the low emmision zone - even if it does not move!!!

Probably more down to the shape of the tank and having a float or similar gauge which measures depth rather than volume. I would be very surprised if LR went to the lengths above on a Defender! I am easily surprised though! I would definitely advise following this advice though! Seriously though, you can always use the MPG quoted elsewhere in forums and documentation (validated for your driving style) to work out approximately how many miles you should be able to go between fills, and divide the distance with that to work out the number of stops you require. Stops for fuel = round up(journey length in miles/(tank capacity in gallons*miles per gallon)) Cheers and have a great trip Martin

With a TD5 with alarm, immobiliser, LR radio etc is there anything I should know before I disconnect the battery?

So if you are working on it on your own: should you?

Question from one of the less than practical: Why does the workshop manual say to disconnect the battery before doing anything; for example changing gearbox oil. What possible effect could the battery have on changing oils and the like? Martin

On a factory fitted heated windscreen there is a timer. The back heater has no timer. HTH Martin

Thank you BBC. It was the second one from Tony! Cheers, and thanks for the quick response Martin