Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Yes really.
I believe due to personal issues (not related to the bodyshop) he has upped sticks and he is no longer anything to do with the bodyshop.
Jon
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What tyre you planning to run? the manufacturer usually specifies rim sizes for the differing tyre sizes.
However i'd take a flyer by syaing for a 12.50 you want a minimum of 8" wide but preferably 10" wide.
Jon
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Ashcroft also do a kit to fit the LT77 to the series transfer case.
Jon
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I thought defedners were available over there - I thought thats what NAS stood for - North American Spec...........
Anyway he shouldnt be swearing on here! Threatening to take those lurvelly leaf springs off of a series! Sacrelidge!
Jon
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Why bother? Why not sell the series and buy a 90 if you really want coil springs???
Stick with a set of parabolics and shove an LT77 in and save yourself a load of time, money and hassle.
I dont see the point in spending a load of time and money chopping about a series these days when 90's have got so cheap.
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Nope - I just kinda hoped someone might know, or my mate might have found those T pieces..........
Jon
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Anyone know what thread the oil pressure switch is on a 200Tdi Disco? Reason is I want to order a Tee piece to Tee in an oil pressure gauge. i suspect its M10 x 1.0 but can anyone confirm??
Cheers
Jon
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Eeeeeeeeeeek!!!
They're even more expensive than Demon Tweeks!!!!!!
They do some nice looking tight 90 degree bends though which would be good for a 200Tdi disco conversion. Shame they only do 2 or 2.5" though - I was looking for 2.25".
Thanks for the tips though!
Cheers
Jon
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OK - apart from rip off merchants Demon Tweeks, where else (prefereably close to home) sells exhaust bits to make up your own exhaust from? I can get straight tubing easily enough, but none of the motor factors I've tried seem to sell pre-formed bends!
CAF's dont, Eurocarparts (F'ing useless bunch) dont, I aint even going to waste my breath in halfrauds..........ARE's used to but have gone bust...........anyone got any ideas?
Cheers
Jon
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You and me both mate! Watched Tonk doing some upsidedown welding at the weekend..........his upsidedown welding is nicer than my right way up welding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Les,
Yes you do need to lose the one by the slave cylinder. I just hadnt got that far when I took the photo!
I accept that changing the housing over is easier, but it isnt if you havnt got another housing to swap over! Mine was previously a V8 fitted via a conversion ring, so there was no housing available!
Jon
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Thought this might be of interest:-
We all know that the disco 200Tdi doesnt match up very well to the defender gearbox. Here's what I did to make it fit better!
Counter bore the 4x bottom bolt holes where the bolts go through to the ladder frame to take M10 x 80 socket caps. I used a 16mm butterfly drill for this (thanks Tonk) to flat off the bottoms of the holes to take the bolts.
There are three existing blind holes in the bottom of the bellhousing that are not tapped. Drill and tap these M10 and fit studs to them. There is a stud at about 2 o'clock as you at the back of the engine that needs removing.
Finally remove and discard the 2x dowel pins that would locate the disco bellhousing to the flywheel housing.
Job done. Engine now bolts directly to the defender bellhousing, with no mods to the bellhousing, and no messing about swapping engine back plates over etc.
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2nd hand sanp-on is what I've got. I paid £350 for a topbox and roll cab about a year ago. Would have paid the same for the equivalent new from MM, but the snap-on stuff is much nicer quality.
Jon
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I've got sierra seats in mine. Really comfy.
Undo with 4 nuts and come out if you really need to get to the tank/batterys, but to be honest I cant remeber the last time I needed to get to either of them! Fuel pumps/ sender units basically rarely go wrong, and with an isolator switch on the battery cabling why do you need to get to the batteries?
My personal preference is for car seats as they're more comfy. Buckets are a PITA.
Jon
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How about just crossdrilling the shaft and fitting a roll pin?
Jon
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An while we're on the subject, I can honestly say (as HFH will confirm) that the V8 in my series has been the most hopeless engine known to man when it comes to water!
When I had the old 2.25 in it i can remember parking it in a lake, with me sitting there with a wet bum, with the engine happily ticking over. The V8 would die if I drove through a 4" deep puddle! I tried EVERYTHING and I mean everything! The only way I ever got the thing to run in the wet in the end was to fit EDIS.
Jon
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You must have been lucky with starters then! I've been through loads!
I've even had a brand new, shiney, genuine lucas one, die on me having started the engine no more than a dozen times, and had never got wet let alone muddy! The motors themselves seem ok, but the solenoids always go "clicky" in my experience!
Jon
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Dont know why he doesnt just weld the brake to the mainshaft........
After all it'd be easy to remove for servicing........
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And for the inevitable occasions when the V8 starter dies???
Remeber V8 starters are cr@p and never last very long.........
Jon
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Stick a standard 13 amp plug on it with a 13 amp fuse and it'll be fine. If you overload anything it'll just blow the fuse.
My 180 amp mig runs fine off this and only occasionally blows fuses (usually if things have gone a bit blobby and it shorts straight to the workpiece).
Otherwise your only option is to fit a 16Amp commando socket and plug and run with these, but the plugs are not fused, so you'd need to correctly wire it back to the MCB. I'm not an electrician, so am not sure how it'd need to be wired in. Perhaps someone on here can advise?
Cheers
Jon
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IMHO pegging a correctly set up 4.7 ring and pinion effectively solves the problem. I've not broken one since I pegged my diffs. I was going through one per outing before I did this. Its not hard to do if you've access to a reasonably equipped workshop.
Swapping the outer front shafts for the late series 3 24 spline ones is a good upgrade. I've never broken a front shaft, but I have occasionaly found they have a twist in at the inner end where the splines go into the diff. Hoever this is only ever on the long shaft - never the short one!I've been experimenting with some home made shafts lately to see how I get on with this.
Nobody in europe makes a 24 spline series front innner shaft. I believe GBR do them in the states but they're spendy! Jack mac probably also does, but Jack Mac stuff is silly money.
I'm running ARB's and 33" tyres with a V8.
I'm not a fan of CV's - not only are they expensive, but IMHO they are no stronger than the earlier U/J's.
Jon
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Yes please!
Jon
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What tyres you on now then Lyndon?
Cheers
Jon
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Hmmmmmm 82 could be what i'm looking for! Many thanks for trying all the same!
I've just twigged that a mates got a 200tdi 90, so I might stick my head under the bonnet next time he comes round!
Cheers
Jon
Steering Ball Joint Differences
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I believe the tapers are all the same.
Series 2 uses a short stud, the early (replaceable) boot, is greaseable and the thread that goes into the track rod is not fully threaded.
Series 3 uses a short stud , the later (non replaceable) boot, is non greaseable, and the stud that goes into the track rod is fully threaded.
Series 2 and 3 ones are interchangeable so long as you use the correct track rod to match the track rod ends.
Disco (etc) is per series three, but the stud is longer as the steering arm on the swivel is thicker than on a series. Disco ones can be used on a series 3 so long as you use packing washers under the nut otherwise you cant fully tighten it.
Dont know about series ones however.
HTH
Jon