Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Many thanks!
Jon
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Jon, just treid on my 200Tdi with multimeter set to ohms, couldn't get a reading, it wasn't at normal working temp if that makes a difference, can try again tomorrow after a run to get it upto temp, & I know the temp transmitter is working fine as the gauge moves.
Thanks Ralph. You need one probe on where the gauge wiring would normally go and one probe on a good earth. You should still get a reading regardless of engine temperature.
When its warm a disco one is about 250ohms. I measured the one on Nigels V8 90 the other day and that was about 75 ohms at operating temp, so I'm hoping that a 200 defender one is the same!
The reason for wanting to know - the temp gauge in my series reads right in the middle of the gauge with a sender resistance of about 75ohms. I've got a 200tdi discovery lump waiting to go in, and if all I need to do is use the defender sender unit then I'm lauging with getting the temp gauge to work! Unfortunately the series sender unit is designed to run with a 74 degree thermostat, so when you run with an 88 degree (as the tdi does) the needle stays firmly buried in the red!
Cheers
Jon
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Bump!
Come on chaps - there must be someone out there who runs a 200Tdi and owns a multimeter surely?
Thanks
Jon
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Bear in mind that if you're running series rims on a series axle you'll struggle with anything much bigger than a 7.50x16 as you'll end up with no steering lock because the tyres will rub on the chassis rails and/or springs. You'll also struggle with rear suspension travel as 7.50's will rub badly on the tops of the rear arches when flexed up.
Jon
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:-) No worries - kind of makes sense!
Sounds like your conversion plate is a bit of a billy bodge on all accounts!
Cheers
Jon
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Er.......yeah but doesnt he run on somthing just a tad larger than 34's???
On the same note Paul was running TSL's on Piggy for a while and Piggy is a series too if you're palying that game!!!
Seriously though i dont know of anyone running super swampers on any sort of leaf sprung series anywhere. They've only recently been available over here anyway, and are of questionable legality on the road over here as they're not E marked.
Jon
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Get yourself a copy of the 300tdi overhaul manual. The shims sit on the end of the crankshaft behind the boss that locates the flex plate. So in order of assembly you should have shim, then the stepped boss, then the flex plate, then the other thick plate that bolts on the other side. As I say - read the manual and work out what shim you need. You would normally only use one shim and it has to be accurately shimmed to within 0.1mm!!! No guesswork or M10 washers here!
That or take a look at the exploded diagram in the parts book and it'll explain all!
Cheers
Jon
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That'd do it! Mine broke simply because some one left the dowels out between the bellhousing and the flywheel housing, so that plate trapped between the two would kill it very quickly!
I've got two shims - 1.3mm and 1.7mm. You need to precisely set the shimming of the flexplate as described in the 300tdi manual. Have you done this?
Cheers
Jon
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To be honest I actually reckon it'd be easier to build your own ECU from scratch for this purpose. There isnt that much to it really!
Jon
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Sorry - same old question again! Can anyone tell me what resistance there is accross the temperature sender unit on a 200Tdi defender when the engine is running at its normal operating temperature?
If no one knows would anyone be kind enough to measure it for me? Needs to be a factory 200Tdi defender using the standard defender guage. A discovery one is different!
I'm kind of hoping the answer is going to be in the region of 75 ohms!
Cheers
Jon
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Wot he said!
Use the shims and space the flexplate towards the TC. Have you got any shims in there at present?? I think I've got a couple floating about if you're stuck.
Cheers
Jon
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Despite it's reputation, this is the only really major flaw with RR air suspension (at least classic/P38a, which are fundamentally the same system - I'm not familiar with the later ones). It's quite straightforward to work on and parts are no longer cripplingly expensive.
Coils are all very well if you only use your vehicle for one thing, but if not they aren't ajustable and you have to compromise a lot more than you do with EAS.
Agree, and unfortunately nobody has made an affordable DIY diagnostic system for it. IMHO Rovacom is not affordable, especially when compared to the cost of a coil conversion.
I have found, and solved a number of problems with the EAS on mine, using nothing more than the wiring diagram, and a multimeter. However there is no way to recalibrate the height sensors without diagnostics, and there is no way to clear the error codes without diagnostics. When you consider that ABS is made with a built in diagnostic, I think its inexcusable that they didnt include the same on the EAS ecu!
Jon
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You'd be better off with at least 7x16's if not 8x16's. The 6's are too narrow really. Interco recommends an 8x16 for this size tire.
You'll probably need custom rims with that size unless you're running odd axles as else you'll end up with bugger all steering lock. You'll also snap standard rear shafts like twiglets!
Jon
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Once its got a fault code logged though the only way to clear it is via the diagnostics!
Jon
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Absolutely nothing you can do except pay the nice man with the computer lots of money to plug it and tell you whats wrong with it!
Only other option is to convert it to coils (which may be cheaper than fixing the air suspension)
HTH
Jon
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Trev, Mine are 6" backspacing. I run on series axles and this takes the tyre out nicely to fill standard 90 wheel arches.
Jon
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3/8 UNC x 1.25"
Jon
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No worries - should be around pretty much all weekend but give me a ring on the mobile just to make sure if you're planning to make a special journey.
Cheers
Jon
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".....And that gentlemen concludes the Highly Technical and detailed expert report from the Forums Hammer Stig....."
Nige
My work here is done..........
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Grind until you can see a hairline crack all the way through the welds (you actaully need to grind into the rim slightly). When I did mine I then sat a large log into the centre to protect it from hammer marks, and then beat the cr@p out of it with a sledge hammer. They do move eventually! If the rims are second hand then they can be hard to get moving. Brand new rims are alot easier to get apart! Once you've separated them you need to weld up the grinder marks in the rim and linish to make good before you re-fit the centres.
HTH
Jon
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Ah I see!!!
I've got a set of alloy nuts you can have for a drink - you know where to find me!
Cheers
Jon
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Thanks Martin - PM sent.
Steve, I've got the suppliment for the defender 200Tdi - its the differences around the timing belt area that concerns me more than anything cos I hate cam belts!
Cheers
Jon
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I've got manuals for just about everything that I've downloaded from the net, but the one thing i cant find is one for a 200Tdi disco!
I've got the set of 3 rave Cd's, which only seem to cover the 300Tdi.
I could live without the rest of the car, but I've got a 200Tdi disco lump sat in my garage at the moment, and I'd really like a manual for it, so i can get torque settings etc. I'm guessing most of it is the same as the defender one, so if it comes to it i can use that, but I think I'm right in saying that the cam belt arrangement is different on the disco, hence wanting the manual!
Anyone ever come accross one?
Cheers
Jon
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My sump's stuck on with the genuine LR black goo which seems to work pretty well - it doesn't leak anyway
Eh???? The bottom of your engine was bladdered with oil when I was under it at the weekend!!!!!
Jon
Largest width tires
in Series Forum
Posted
7.50x16 is about 31". 9.00x16 is about 34" (but 9.00's actually vary wildly in size).
You'll need to run rims with lots of offset to space them out from the chassis to get your steering lock back. I'm running rims with 6" of backspacing.
Jon