Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Grind the edges????
I just prise them up with a screwdriver, drill out the pop rivets, and then just take the skins off. Its only soft ally. Do it all the time when the frames need welding up. You can then re-fit them and dress the crease back down again with a hammer and dolly.
Easy peasy........
Jon
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Twin Su's.......I get no problems with misfires!!!
:-p
Jon
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Chuckle..........superb!!!!!!!
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Tonk and I both run Lt77 mated to series transfer box. We both agree its too much work to be worthwhile and wouldnt bother with it again. Involves making up adaptor plates, bearing carriers and custom making an input gear, along with a right old mish mash of landrover and sherpa bits.
If you've plenty of tiem on your hands and access to a full equipped machine shop then go for it, otherwise dont bother!
Jon
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Reversed white 8 spokes is what I run!
Havnt broken them yet, but I'll blame Nige when they do casue he welded them!! IMHO they look good too.
I kinda liked Mach5's when they first came on the scene, but now everyone's got them, but they do seem to be hideously expensive IMHO.
Jon
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Chuckle.......
Also bear in mind you may need to snip down the tangs on the connectors as if they're too long they often tend to snap off when you try and crimp them. You'll need some small cutters for this.
YES I KNOW YOU DONT HAVE ANYTHING SMALLER THAN ELEPHANTS TOENAIL CLIPPERS!!!!!!!
If you wanna borrow some ickle sidecutters and the decent crimp tool then give me a shout, but I'm not around at the weekend so you'll need to come and get them one evening!
Jon
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Nige theres no easy way of doing these as you need to make absolutely certain you have the exact right connector otherwise they tend to break as you crimp them.
I've got the proper tools for these, and none of them are simple single squeeze jobbies. I dont know if they're available, but I've never seen any if they are!
Jon
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Funnily enough I've always liked em.......
Add a set of Frontera alloys and a set of old XR2 seats and it looks alot better and is alot more comfortable.
Have to say though they always handle better with a few bags of cement in the back........and that stupid dooda thats supposed to adjust the braking bias dependant on the load is always siezed solid......
And pray you never get a punture casue the spare wheel mechanism is always siezed solid too......
And they rust like crazy.......
The Na diesels are slower than a slow thing and the petrols are just thirsty........
Still like them though......
Jon
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Mate of mines just put an LT77 and 230 into a series 2 and he had to move the crossmember thats behind the gearbox back about 2" otherwise he found he couldnt get the handbrake drum off!
You also find the transfer box lever will foul the seatbox so has to be abandoned and you'll have to make something else up to operate the high/low and diff lock.
I thought the R380 was a tad longer than the Lt77 but I may be wrong...
Jon
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I've always done them myself. Hilift jack under the landy to break the bead and then with a bit of wd40 and a couple of big prybars they're easy enough to do.
Getting them off the rim is the difficult bit. Re-fitting them is easy.
I've never bothered with blancing anyway.
I have to admit there is a knack to it, and until you've got he knack you'll struggle like crazy!
I wouldnt try it with decent alloys however as the levers would mark the rim. Doesnt matter on scabby 8 spokes however.
Jon
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I run mine with an 88-82 degree one IIRC and the thermostat is 74 degrees.
I found the best bet is trial and error till you get the correct temperature. I've got 3 or 4 different ones floating around that you're welcome to borrow to try and see if they're too hot or too cold. I know what temp they are so you should be able to work out which way you need to go from there.
Jon
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Rs do a whole range or IP67 rated connectors in a whole range of sizes, pin counts etc. Decide which you want and I'll order them for you.
Jon
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No Boots - had them fitted to mine origionally and they fill p with mud that never properly dries out and the rods corrode.
Jon
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You can download pretty much all the manuals you'll ever need for a series from the net in pdf format for free. Do a quick searhc around and you'll find them........parts book, workshop manual the lot!
Jon
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Why not just bolt on the 3.9 injection system that is perfectly adequate and easily available?
Sorry, but I've never seen the point in megsquirting an engine where theres a perfectly serviceable off the shelf injection system available for it. Fit the hotwire system as its designed for the engine and will fuel to match it. Running the 3.5 system on a 3.9 will probably casue it to run lean. The 3.9 system IIRC uses lambda sensors so can run closed loop which is far superior to the flapper system.
It'll certainly run with the flapper system, but you can only really alter the idle mixture on it with the standard adjusters. you might get away with it, but its likely to always run lean......
Jon
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No - I mean the bit that clips onto the bottom of the glass - they're a PITA to get back onto the glass again!
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Er........well I own a V8, so does that mean that Fridge has got a soft pink bottom..............??????????
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Right - sorted - 5 minutes when I didnt have the hump with it and it all opens and closes lovelly - just needed a little more adjustment!
Just noticed the window channels rotten.........sigh - they're a PITA to replace!
Jon
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Er.......one thing - no mechanical knowledge.
If a tatty V8 goes bang it gets scrapped. If a tatty Tdi goes bang it gets scrapped.
Of the two the V8 is more likely to act up due to cr@p electronics, and theres more to go wrong. Anyway the saving in fuel costs would soon make it more worthwhile!
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Using the 90 parts. Think i might have had a thought whilst in bed last night (dont ask). I suspect it might be that the door frame is fouling the eye bolt for lower harness mount. I'll have a look 2nite.
And thanks nige, but welding a big lump of 3/4" plate to it make make the doors shut with a more satisfying clunk, but will only make the leaves lean even more than they do already!!!
Jon
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Hmmmmmmmm dont really want to have to take the door rubbers off casue series ones are rivetted on and it'd be a right pain to take them off. I've already filed slots for the bolt holes to allow me to adjust so it aint that. I've been messing about with a pile of penny washers all day for use as shims and that has improved things but it still aint right.......
Sigh........its got dark and I got the hump with it so I'll have another fiddle tomorrow night.........
Thanks chaps!
Jon
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Or tatty TDI discos are getting very cheap now.......more usable than a V8 rangie and argueably less to go wrong......
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Right.........I've now been buggering about with the damn thing for 2 days and it still isn't right!
Been fitting lift up handle 90 doors to my series over the weekend that i salvaged from Si White's scrap bin a while back.
Drivers side one is lovelly - shuts perfectly, lines up perfectly, catches are smooth and easy to operate.........
Passenger side one, no matter what i do to it I have to slam it to get it to shut properly, sometimes several times, its doesnt line up very well, and more annoying of all it flatly refuses to undo from inside!
Anyone know anything about adjusting these doors?? If i take the striker off the bodywork and fit it into the catch it all works smoothly, and releases perfectly from inside and out. Bolt the striker back on and it refuses to open from inside! I'm tearing my hair out with it now! I've tried adjusting the door at the bulkhead end and have got it lined up as good as you can with a dented old series, but i cannot adjust the striker in enough to align the door flat with the bodywork. If I take the striker off completely the door swings open and shut freely so it isnt catching on anything etc........
I can live with it not lining up too well, but not opening from the inside is a right royal pain! I've adjusted the linkage, and moved the interior handle on the slots, but it all just seems to jam up rather than relase the door. Its all clean and free and lubricated, and I've had the whole lot in bits and i'm still at a loss to explain why the hell it wont work!
Anyone ever had this and got any suggestions?
As an aside I finally admitted defeat and bought some blingy new screwdrivers and for the first time since I've owned the truck managed to get the adjusting screws for the door hinges undone! Result!
Thanks
Jon
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More or less - the way AWDC scruitineer it is that with the engine running removing the kill switch should kill all the electrics and stop the engine. Its amasing how many red raced people there are at scruitineering when the the isolator is removed and the engine carrys on ticking over quite happily!
It is acceptable to wire electric winches through a seperate isolator.
Cheers
Jon
Welding helmets
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I've got the speedglas 9000V and find it fantastic. No need for torches IMHO - its plenty clear enough when turned on!
Try taking your sunnies off before putting the welding helmet on Andy!
Jon