Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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I just hanker after an 9002V now tho having played with one
Nige
That wouldnt happen to have been my one now would it????
Jon
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Stick with Cat2 IMHO. I had an alarm on my series for a while (when the local kids wouldnt leave it alone) and the flippin thing was always going off whenever it rained! The series is just too leaky for modern ultrasonic alarms to cope with!
Jon
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Cat 2 is immobiliser only.
Cat 1 is alarm and imobiliser.
thats the difference.
Jon
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Ah is that the stumpy one made from Unobtanium???
IIRC isnt an R380 box longer than an LT77 or something hence the need for the shorter bellhousing?
Jon
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According to EPC front diff was only a 2 pin. there is a listing for both a 2 and 4 pin rear but it doesnt specify which was fitted to what.
ARB list the RD56 locker as fitting a 1993-98 rangie which is the same part no as for 24 spline for other landrover axles so I'd say yes, they're interchangeable.
Jon
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No I dont think so.....
Jon
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I sold an ashcroft kit 2 years ago for £150, and that was just the kit! (which frankly was pretty horrible!) Could have sold it at least 3 times over aswell......
As this is a complete, proven unit, thats more or less a nuts and bolts swap I should have thought it should have been worth alot more........how much more i dont know.........
Jon
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I like the Iso-tech ones that RS stock.
Had mine for donkeys years and its ultra reliable, and the batteries last forever. Plus you can buy new probes for it and other accessories easily.
In my expereience the probes die too easily on the cheapo ones.
Jon
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Agree with John - the TI kit is horrifically expensive, but more to the point it still gives you vagueness that you get with any series steering.
Swapping to rangie kit is easy to do if you can fabricate, and has the bonus of less turns of the wheel lock to lock, and gives a much more precise feeling to the steering. No more sawing at the wheel to keep it going straight!
Plus above all replacement parts are easy and cheap to come by when something goes wrong.
Jon
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D'oh!
I must learn to pay more attention...........
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Geabox x-member?? Why??? I didnt have to?
Only for propshaft clearance I assume?
Jon
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Sorry, wasn't paying attention and somehow confused you with Jon White
not sure how 'cos he has a working vehicle 
Eh???? Working???? You mean the one thats in bits on axle stands at the moment with yet another broken front axle and knackered steering u/js???
Jon
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My mate only runs D2 steelys on his racer. Apparently the alloys arent strong enough.
Jon
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Dont forget also that D2 is a different stud pattern, so your existing rims wont fit!
Jon
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Jules,
Having helped my mate strip a spare front axle the other day i can say there is most definately not a weight saving! It took two of us to move the front axle and to me it didnt seem any lighter - it may be, but not by very much!
The front is alot quicker to strip as there are no swivels, so making diffs and or halfshafts easier to change. However parts are fearsomely expensive, and the seals in the ends of the front axle tube are very easy to damage.
The spare tubes my mate has aquired with the intention of welding some additional webs onto the outside to stiffen up the casing.
By far the biggest problem he has had though are the bush problems I've already mentioned.
Jon
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Jules,
Mate of mine has disco 2 axles fitted to his racer - wishes he never bothered!
He's bent both axle cases, and has recently aquired replacements to beef up to try and prevent this. His is most definately not poor shock setup they just seem to be weak.
The shafts are very strong, but I dont know about the diffs. I know the diffs are slightly different and that its possible to convert to using standard rover type diffs, but that its a PITA to do. He approached Quaiffe about making some uprated shafts for them, and was told not to bother as they couldnt improve on landrovers shafts! He's never broken a shaft to my knowledge. However he does break diffs (including a quaiffe one recently).
The bushes on the D2 arms also seem to be a weak point. My mate finds that he struggles to get a set to last a single meeting! He only fits genuine - they just dont last. He never had this problem before when running standard rangie stuff.
Finally rangie axles are easy to come by - D2 ones arent - they were only made for a couple of years, and by comparison are expensive.
Jon
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Which model rover?
I've come accross this on 800's and its casued by the breaking up of a stupid little flat metal disk within the steering rack itself. The disk has something to do with the valving but I cant remember exaclty what it does. It is repairable by replacing said item with an undamaged item from another scrap rack, but parts are not available separately.
In short the fix in the real world is to replace the rack with either a re-con or a good 2nd hand rack.
HTH
Jon
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Woohoo!!! You still driving that ratty yellow 2a with the external cage on it?
Jon
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Usualy 10am.
The site is on the Right as you're coming from Farnham. There is a long open, straight peice of road and the site can be seen on the right through the trees.
You'll pass laybys on either side of the road, and then turn right into the site about 50yds past the laybys. If you go down the hill to the traffic lights you've gone too far.
Jon
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Cough........
Scrapiron?
Sorry!
Jon
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Jon I take you mean the Ingersol Rand 2135 qti great tool but to get the power you need to run 130 to 150 psi and my hydrovane only makes 7 bar (105 psi) so I was a bit dissapointed in its outright power
Yeah thats the one! Thats interesting to know though........think I'd better check what my compressor kicks out!
Thanks
Jon
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I personally have only 6 sided ones, and for the very rare odd occasions I do need a 12 point one I've bought individual sockets to suit. The only things I can think of that use 12 points are V8 oil pump covers, V8 bottom end bolts and rear caliper bolts.
The 6 sided ones mean its pretty much impossible to round nuts off!
Snap-on ones are the mutts nuts but expensive. I have a 1/2" teng set that survived many years of abuse and is still good as new. I also have a sealey 1/4" set which is again good as new.
Impact socket wise i have a mixure of snap-on, facom, halfrauds proffesional, CP, sealey and some unbranded. With the exception of the unbraned which are a bit nasty, theres not alot to choose between them.
Jon
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Well my personal experience with Clarke or SIP air tools is that they are useless cr@p and not worth wasting your money on. The SIP impact wrench I had wouldnt even undo car wheel nuts I had just torqued up by hand to 50ft/lbs! Stick with CP or Ingersoll Rand for top notch stuff. I've also been pleased with the Sealey air tools that I have. Cheaper end and seemingly good quality.
I've got a CP impact wrench, and a CP 3/8 ratchet. I've also got a 1/2 sealey ratchet and I can see no difference in performance between the CP and the Sealey ones.
I too have heard bad things about the Snap-on air tools.
I fancy one of those 1000 ft/lbs Ingersoll Rand ones!!!
Jon
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Either chop out the frotn x-member and fit any fangie PAS box, or it is possible to fit by just cutting a wedge out of the front x-member if you use the right box.
I'm running defender steering on mine and it works well, but not for the faint hearted as its alot of work and alot of safety critical cutting and welding!
Bomag, if you're coming to Broxhead on the 27th you're welcome to come and collar me and have a look at mine.
Cheers
Jon
not sure how 'cos he has a working vehicle 
Welding helmets
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Er.......nope! My welding has improved so much since using it! Its nice to actually be able to see what you're doing!