Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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90 front end on a series? why not buy a 90 & put series doors on. same weird 'built from a pile of bits look' with less work. sorry but NO a series is a series, a 90 is a 90 dont mix them.
id expect an oil cooler to help the engine stay cool & work better when its hot as the oil will be closer to the correct temp. make sure the oil cooler is inline with the fan/got its own fan for maximum effect though. plus the extra oil to fill a cooler will help slow down how quick it heats up.
They have little effect at low speed however and the fine gills in a mocal type cooler block with mud very easily.
Jon
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My works 04 plate berlingo will just about do a tonne downhill with the wind behind, but takes an age to get there! IMHO its underpowered. I'd prefer to look for the 2.8tdi isuzu lump and drop that in - kits available off the shelf and the engines are bulletproof!
Jon
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Yep - taking an angle grinder to the swivel housing to allow the calipers to clear is a bodge IMHO.
There are things with my conversion I would like to have done better, but everything is a compromise, especially where cost is a concern!
That said mines been on disks for about 3 years now and I've not had an ounce of trouble with them! In all that time I've only changed the pads once to boot!
Jon
Jon
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I can only imagine that these are the ones that were designed and made by BCB Offroad in the States, before they closed for business. They were a hub conversion allowing you to use RR calipers and disc's, wasn't cheap in the States so likely to be outrageous here. AFAIK Tim Cooper sold all their designs/rights etc, so maybe someone else is making them.
I think if RM were producing them they'd be making a song and dance about them. But I'm not unaccustomed to being wrong!
Andy
I've seen the RM ones at a show and they use a vented disk and 4 pot caliper. Cant remeber if they were std rangie ones but I suspect you're right - they were the BCB design ones.
I had a very long conversation with BCB about their conversions a couple of years back. Really really nice idea, but the availability was atrocious. They didn't have any and couldnt tell me when they were going to be available. Months later they still couldnt tell me when they were gonna be available........
IIRC the cost in the states was around the £1500 mark, and that was only for the conversion hubs, you still had to source disks, calipers etc. Add shipping, duty and VAT to that and it becomes a very very expensive conversion!
I have to say that, to date, the BCB disc conversion is the only one I've seen commercially available that I would consider to be well engineered and fit for purpose.
The zeus and TI Console/ Chris perfect ones are both just plain horrible!
None of them are a cheap conversion.
Jon
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Awwwwww
I didn't say it wasn't cute (have you injected some kitten DNA into the EP90 to get it to pose like that?) just that there's a reasonable gap in a Series front end if you chop the cowling about to get a much larger rad in, and Series rads are not great at the best of times.If it's a soft-top or truck cab I'd be inclined to stick a rad in the back, not gonna get clogged up. Mike B seems very happy with the one in his TC, and Petal's one cools the 2.8 nicely despite being (relatively) tiny:
Diesels for some reason always seem to run cooler. My series on the origional rad never actually boiled up, but on a hot day it got very very hot, and when the rad got full of mud it again got very very hot. The 90 rad is better simply because it increases the cooling capacity so much!
Custom rads are all very well, but you need to supply suitable end tanks for them to build the core into. The other point is that a TD rad from paddocks is about £110. Phone anglo-european up for a quote on a custom rad, but make sure you're sitting down first! Niges IIRC was in the region of £300.......
Jon
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The IDM signal present on all EDIS modules is used as the factory tach output to the ECU. This signal is used to determine the welfare of the ignition system. If a coil primary opens or does not fire, the IDM signal is not emitted, and thus the coil is faulty. The IDM signal is triggered by the flyback voltage of the coil being fired. The EDIS module processes this into a 512us pulse on the IDM line during operation. When the engine is stopped, but the Key is turned on (KOEOff), the EDIS module emits a 64us pulse every 262.144ms to indicate proper operation. Because of this, any tachometer operation from this line must filter out the 64us pulses.
IIRC its (very roughly) a 0-5v square wave
Cheers
Jon
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1) Do I need to remove the battery tray and filter tray thing..
Yes - relocate battery to under passenger seat.
2) I currently have quite a thick brass topped rad in there - do I need to change this? whatever I do rad
wise I guess I will need to fit a 16" blower fan on the front.
A series rad will just cool a v8, but only just! Its fine on the road, but off road my series always ran hot. Especially so when the rad was caked in mud! Even with a 16" kenlowe mine struggled. A flexi fan bolted to the water pump helped but the rad wasnt really big enough! Fit a 90 front end and you can fit a 90 radiator and end of problem.
3) on the v8 (3.9 out of a 1992 range rover) can I get away with a standard Range rover timing cover and water pump or do I need to source a p6 water pump and crank pulley etc, ie for clearance issues??
Yes it'll be fine but you'll need to cut the threaded boss for the viscous off if running the series rad as its too close for comfort.
4) Am I likely to need an oil cooler for off road use just rtvs etc really, but could mean lots of slow driving so may lack cooling?
Not really - see above - oil cooler will make bugger all difference at walking speed. It needs a bigger rad really!
5) I have this spigot bush with the kit, do I still need to modify the crank on the v8?
Yes, you still have to hacksaw the end off the crank. A horrible bodge IMHO. A better way to do it is to machine down the input shaft of your gearbox to fit the V8 spigot bush.
6) I currently have the RR 3.9 cast headers and also a nice set of P38 stainless headers are either of these usable?
No. You need the single outlet ones carbed ones. You can then buy an off the shelf exhaust to fit. Be warned that the Jake Wright system is the ONLY one that fits properly. Otherwise you're into making one up to suit.
Drivetrain:
7) I have the standard 2a gearbox, I have heard that I have to get a series 3 bellhousing for the conversion? something to do with the clutch slave cylinder arrangement? if so what parts do I need to source and what is involved?
Bellhousing, clutch release assembly - fork, push rod, bearing, slave cylinder etc. Suggest fitting a complete new clutch aswell.
8) Sticking with standard gearbox / diffs but larger 7.50r16 tyres is it likely to be usable, ie top speed / comfortable speed etc for road use or do I need to look for an overdrive (are there any good ones left!) or perhaps an ashcroft high ratio transfer kit..? I dont really want to use range rover diffs even though I have a spare pair as I want to retain the low ratio for off road use.
Rangie diffs are alot stronger than series ones and will correct the gearing. I ran 4.7's with 33" tyres and mine was under geared. Its fine with a 5th gear however.
9) How much power is the gearbox and drivetrain good for, I will be using a 3.9 with a 4 barrel weber, mallory ignition, torquemax cam etc am I likely to get trouble (went through the whole depends how you drive it thing with the tdi and general consensus was that a v8 is kinder to the drivetrain than a tdi but how much kinder :-)
About the power of an elastic band! The series 2 trans is stronger than a series 3 one and they're made of chocolate! I broke 3 in less than a year! Transfer box is bullet proof however. Thats with a standard 3.5 on Su's. With a tuned 3.9 your tranmission and axles wont last long........
10) Current plan is to get some later axles or at least just fit 11" brakes onto the current ones, are the later axles ie post 81 series 3 axles any stronger?
You will snap rear halfshafts like twiglets! Later (24 spline outer) ones are stronger but not that much stronger. Late 24spline outer fronts will be fine. Otherwise look at a salisbury back axle.
11) I looked into fitting the spare range rover axles (with series diffs) but looked far too much hassle (plus at that stage potential DVLA issues) so sticking with series axles are there any usefull parts off the range rover axles (ie calipers, hubs etc etc) towards a future disc brake upgrade that I should remove before I sell / scrap them.
Rangie rear parts can be used to disk brake convert the series back axle, but not the fronts. If you're gonna invest in a front end disk kit then they're worth holding on to. Otherwise unusable.
Body mods
12) Is anything other than trimming the footwells required?
No.
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Thats how it normally works. Industrial size welders usually have the larger sized pipe. "Hobby" type ones have the smaller pipe. What you've got there is the conversion pipe to convert a hobby type welder to use the big bottles. I had one on my old welder and it never leaked. Have you tried a new connector - the one you have may be damaged?
Cheers
Jon
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Nonnononono........
the Megajolt ECU has a "tach out" pin that is put there to drive the tacho.
So are you using the megasquit ecu in ignition only mode at the moment then? If so I'm sure it'll have a similar "tach out" function.
The 12v square wave is not enough to drive a flapper ecu even without the resistor that is normally on the end of the coil wire. Dont know about a hotwire ecu, but I'd guess it'd be the same.
The kick back from the coil firing can be as much as 50v, so the ecu is looking for a higher pulse than this.
Jon
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What are you using to control the edis at the moment then? I used the Tach output on my megajolt unit which is a 12v square wave.
I cant beleive that megasquit doesnt have the same or similar.
Jon
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The edis will produce a tach sygnal of its own (pin 2 IIRC) but the amplitude may not be enough to trigger the ECU. The correct fix would be to swap the resistor in the ecu to one of a lower value, but dont ask me which one it is! I had to do this to my tacho to get it work with the edis system.
If not the 5x diodes system seems to work well - thats what Nige runs!
Jon
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No - thats just the "star" part of it - same part is if you were replacing a propshaft u/j.
The complete U/j's are horrifically expensive!
jon
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The ones that look like mini LR u/js........
Jon
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Nige - if it was that flat I'd expect to charge it for at least a week on an optimate casue the charging output is sooooooooooo low.
Leave it on for a while yet and then worry about it.
Jon
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>Muslims who want to live under Islamic Sharia Law were told on
>Wednesday to get out of Australia, as the government targeted
>Radicals in a bid to head-off potential terrorist attacks.
>A day after a group of mainstream Muslim leaders pledged loyalty
>To Australia and her Queen at a special meeting with Prime Minister
>John Howard, he and his Ministers made it clear that extremists would
>face a crackdown. Treasurer Peter Costello, seen as heir apparent to
>Howard, hinted that some radical clerics could be asked to leave the
>country if they did not accept that Australia was a secular state, and
>its
>laws were made by parliament.
>"If those are not your values, if you want a country which has
>Sharia law or a theocratic state, then Australia is not for you", he
>said on National Television. "I'd be saying to clerics who are teaching
>That there are two laws governing people in Australia: one the
>Australian law and another the Islamic Law, that is false. If you can't
>agree with parliamentary law, independent courts, democracy, and would
>prefer Sharia law and have the opportunity to go to another country,
>which
>practices it, perhaps, then, that's a better option", Costello
>said.
>Asked whether he meant radical clerics would be forced to leave,
>He said those with dual citizenship could possibly be asked to move to
>The other country. Education Minister Brendan Nelson later told
>Reporters that Muslims who did not want to accept local values should
>"clear
>off.
>Basically, people who don't want to be Australians, and who don't
>want to live by Australian values and understand them, well then,
>they can basically clear off", he said. Separately, Howard angered some
>Australian Muslims on Wednesday by saying he supported spy agencies
>monitoring the nation's mosques. Quote: "IMMIGRANTS, NOT
>AUSTRALIANS, MUST ADAPT. Take It Or Leave It!" I am tired of this nation
>Worrying about whether we are offending some individual or their
>culture.
>Since the terrorist attacks on Bali, we have experienced a surge in
>patriotism by the majority of Australians."
>"However, the dust from the attacks had barely settled when the
>'politically correct' crowd began complaining about the possibility
>that our patriotism was offending others. I am not against
>immigration, nor do I hold a grudge against anyone who is seeking a
>better life by coming to Australia." "However, there are a few things
>that those
>who have recently come to our country, and apparently some born here,
>need to understand."
>"This idea of Australia being a multicultural community has
>served only to dilute our sovereignty and our national identity. And as
>Australians, we have our own culture, our own society, our own
>Language and our own lifestyle."
>"This culture has been developed over two centuries of struggles,
>trials and victories by millions of men and women who have sought
>freedom". "We speak mainly ENGLISH, not Lebanese, Arabic, Chinese,
>Japanese, Russian, or any other language Therefore, if you wish to
>become part of our society ... Learn the language!"
>"Most Australians believe in God. This is not some Christian,
>right wing, political push, but a fact, because Christian men and women,
>on Christian principles, founded this nation, and this is clearly
>documented. It is certainly appropriate to display it on the walls
>of our schools. If God offends you, then I suggest you consider
>another part of the world as your new home, because God is part of our
>culture."
>"We will accept your beliefs, and will not question why. All we
>ask is that you accept ours, and live in harmony and peaceful enjoyment
>with us."
>"If the Southern Cross offends you, or you don't like "A Fair
> Go", then you should seriously consider a move to another part of this
>planet. We are happy with our culture and have no desire to change,
>and we really don't care how you did things where you came from. By all
>means, keep your culture, but do not force it on others.
>"This is OUR COUNTRY, OUR LAND, and OUR LIFESTYLE, and we will
>allow you every opportunity to enjoy all this. But once you are done
>complaining, whining, and griping about Our Flag, Our Pledge, Our
>Christian beliefs, or Our Way of Life, I highly encourage you take
>advantage of one other great Australian freedom, 'THE RIGHT TO
>LEAVE'."
>"If you aren't happy here then LEAVE. We didn't force you to come
>here. You asked to be here. So accept the country YOU accepted."
>"Maybe if we circulate this amongst ourselves, AMERICAN citizens
>and CANADIAN citizens will find the backbone to start speaking out and
>voting the same truths!!
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Also bear in mind that many of the modern replacemetn parts available are made of chocolate. You cannot buy many genuine series gearbox parts these days!
Also bear in mind the youngest series boxes now are at least 20 years old. They suffer terribly from wear, and if you compare them to the standard boxes in may 70's cars they really were no better or worse. There just arent many 70s cars still around! Compare them to a mini gearbox for example. They're just as pants. Gear change is horrible, mainshafts shear etc etc.
They were designed in the 50's and were onyl ever designed for the power of a 2.25 running on 6.00 tyres......
Nuff said......
Jon
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Well they sell the wire, the eyes and the crimps so I'd be very surprised if they wont crimp them for you aswell!
Jon
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Mate of mine had a 303 with 9.00x16" Petlas, they're a tough tyre (as in military) so will probably last longer than Simex but be less flexible and a tad heavier. I thought 9.00x16" was about 35-36"?
9.00's are supposedly 34" but the actual size they measure up at varies wildly depending on what make they are!
Jon
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Hmmmmmm they dont appear to do any wire rope or anything though - I just looked at Guildford marine's website - stainless bits are cheap as chips from them! What thickness wries do i want - 5mm?
Jon
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At any speed a bush wire will behave more like a cheese wire. IMHO.
Chris
Exellant! Anti-rambler device anyone????
So it looks like then no-ones really sure if they're legal or not then, but nobody has ever heard of anyone getting into trouble for running them! I think the best thing to do then is make them fairly easily removable.
Anyone got any clever designs for them then, or got any better sources of parts than the local B+Q? I noticed they did steel wire, and the turnbuckles and U clamps the other day!
I think if possible I'd prefer to get the loops crimped and use ickle shackles etc so the local yacht chandlers may be a better bet. Might be able to get stainless wire too!
Jon
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Simple as that really - are they road legal?
Thanks
Jon
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1 hour later whole truck done !
1 hour??? Yee gads - professional paint job! I can do my entire truck in 20 minutes!!!
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Les is a bit of a perfectionist and doesn't get out much, so he needs to get that 'just perfect' finish
Thats cause he needs it so nice and shiney he can see his face in it, so he can see what he's doing when he puts his lipstick on!
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Do it the Tonk/JW method.
Dont bother painting new panel until after fitting it to vehicel. Find old paint brush that isnt too stiff. Beat with hammer until flexable if too stiff. Find tin of NATO green paint. Remove lid. Remove skin. Stir with expensive snap on screwdriver casue theres nothing else lying around that will do. Carefull clean snap-on screwdriver with thinners, dry and polish and put carefully back into snap-on toolbox.
Dip stiff paint brush into paint and apply to wing. Dont worry too much about runs etc casue it'll get scratched soon anyway. If old colour shows through too much then make sure you apply a really good thick coat casue repainting it again is too much hassle - it runs a bit but who cares?
Admire how much the rest of the truck has faded casue the new panel looks very green now!
Make token effort at cleaing paint brush by putting it in jam jar full of thinners with other mankey paint brushes. Make promise that you will clean paint brushes properly one day. Put back on shelf.
Get on with other jobs, swearing liberally every time for the next 4 hours you forget the paint is wet and touch it.
And no i didnt forget the rubbing down or priming stages - I just never bother!!!
OK so its of absolutely no use whatsoever by way of advice to Tony, but though you lot might like a laugh as to how the other half do it!
Jon
I didn't say it wasn't cute (have you injected some kitten DNA into the EP90 to get it to pose like that?) just that there's a reasonable gap in a Series front end if you chop the cowling about to get a much larger rad in, and Series rads are not great at the best of times.
TI Console Disc Brakes
in Series Forum
Posted
Theres a Diahatsu track rod end that allows you to stack the rods so will allow you to do this.
However the problem with doing it this way is that it does strange things to the Ackerman, which affects the handling (but dont ask me to explain it casue I dont really understand it myself!) something to do with Ackerman versus reverse ackerman or something......
Jon